This is how I fixed all my clones. This two strand washer that I made keeps the copper screw from slipping too far in the atty. It's a nice tight fit when screwed down. The damned ding dongs designed the pin a tad too short.
Trident clone - problems with center screw stripping... fixable?
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This is how I fixed all my clones. This two strand washer that I made keeps the copper screw from slipping too far in the atty. It's a nice tight fit when screwed down. The damned ding dongs designed the pin a tad too short.
No - I sent it back. After I got it squared away I noticed the positive post was still slipping up and out of the insulator. Just didn't want something that would be constantly coming loose. On the lookout for another dripping atty.
4.55mm from the base to the end of the positive pin. 4.10mm from the base to the end of the threads on the 510 connection.
So I have a faux Nemmy now (ordered an extra mod and atty for easy flavor variety) and I am unable to get it to make a connection with a flat top battery and an atty that does not have an adjustable center or 510 pin. That is, unless the 510 screw can extend a bit lower than standard, the other adjustable areas of the wannabe Nemmy do not extend far enough to compensate with a flat top.Vwls, you probably know all this, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to mention it. I have the Chemseis from FT and their Trident clone like yours. I also have Sony flat top batts. I just screwed the Trident's 510 screw in all the way and it's working fine for me. Here's how I assemble it.
The Trident with screw all the way in:
Then I screw the Trident on the top part of the Chemisis and screw the Chemesis battery contact screw in until it makes gentle contact:
Unscrew the bottom switch button a bit and assemble the rest of the Chemesis. Screw in the switch button until it makes gentle contact with the battery. This is what it looks like then:
As you can see there is not a lot of space left between the switch button and the shut off ring, but it does work and I don't have the shut off ring all the way up so there's a bit more travel available to the switch. I think you have the real Nemesis, but I also think they are pretty much the same.
Are you using the small beauty ring?
With that on there you will have issues, unless you are running a fuse.
In 18650 mode, you only want the 2 main tubes, top and switch.
No small ring.
I played with that for about half an hour when I first got mine before I figured out which combination of parts worked best together. Everything (well, most things) is simple once you know how it works
My real Nemmy was used and came without the extra parts. The fake came in with all the extras and that ring was already attached. Took a good bit to figure out how to get it unscrewed actually - it was on there pretty good.
Vaping away fine now - the materials this one is made with are definitely thinner/lighter/cheaper than the real thing, but it's not a bad little mod for the price.
My main complaint about the Nemmy, whether genuine or faux, is that the firing mechanism is built in such a way that the mod is shaky when standing up, unlocked, and carrying a heavy load. My Origin can stand under the weight of any atty with never a wobble - just a better design.
Has anyone tried the Origin clone yet?
Vaping away fine now - the materials this one is made with are definitely thinner/lighter/cheaper than the real thing, but it's not a bad little mod for the price.
My main complaint about the Nemmy, whether genuine or faux, is that the firing mechanism is built in such a way that the mod is shaky when standing up, unlocked, and carrying a heavy load. My Origin can stand under the weight of any atty with never a wobble - just a better design.
Has anyone tried the Origin clone yet?
I haven't tried the origin clone yet, but have a brass one waiting in my fast tech shopping cart.
I've got the Trident clone and been having the same problem. Perhaps I could just get some copper wire and wrap a bit under the screw head to get something similar?
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