Trident clone - problems with center screw stripping... fixable?

[Xobeloot]

Hey No, it doesn't continue to turn - it pops back up. Upwards... like it wants to jump out of the Delrin and go for a jog. It's basically just seated in the Delrin as Xobe said - compression is what keeps it there and apparently, compression doesn't work for very long when you're actually using it a lot. I need an atty that can take daily use and pretty frequent rebuilding, as well as getting bumped around a bit as I take it with me when I go out.

if it isn't turning but is popping up, you do not have the positive copper screw in tight enough. you need to tap the pos down, put a flat head screwdriver in the slot and hold it in place while tightening the positive copper screw. If the copper screw isn't in far enough, when you tap it down from the top..... It is going to pop out when you put it onto a mod.

The copper should be nearly flush with the base as such with the pos pin.

Pics incoming

 

[Xobeloot]

When the pos pin is level with the deck, the 510 should look like this

If it looks like this

When you put it on a mod, it is going to push the pin upwards until the 510 looks like the first pic.


Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2

 

[Vwls]

I'm tempted to order a CHIdent and see if there is any difference between it and the one I paid $90 for other than the etched serial number on the bottom.

Every bit of research I have done leads me to believe you have the exact same atty as I do minus the serial.

(the $15 FT one... not the $5 one)

Yep - the $16 one from fasttech is literally identical to the $90 one. I'm serious - I can't tell any difference between them inside or out. Other than the serial. Holding them both in my hand, it's crazy how good of a clone this is. Makes me suspect that they are both made by the same company. I know you know what I'm talking about.

 

[Vwls]

if it isn't turning but is popping up, you do not have the positive copper screw in tight enough. you need to tap the pos down, put a flat head screwdriver in the slot and hold it in place while tightening the positive copper screw. If the copper screw isn't in far enough, when you tap it down from the top..... It is going to pop out when you put it onto a mod.

The copper should be nearly flush with the base as such with the pos pin.

Pics incoming

OK gotcha - I will do that and post pics for you.

 

[Vwls]

So this is it after I have carefully but firmly tapped the positive post down as far as it will go. As you can see, it's in original position just ever so slightly higher than the two negative posts (due to the fact that it is mounted in a Delrin base that is not quite flush with the deck).

The trouble is, in order for my set up to function, I need the center post screw "unscrewed" to this point:

... in order to use my Sony flat tops in the Nemmy and still make contact with the atty when I fire...

 

[player one]

Of course - thanks little Monkey

Thing is, I do sub ohm. So I'm generating quite a bit of heat... safely mind you - always safely. I would feel better about returning this P.O.C. and getting a new toy that doesn't pop out of place and require Super glue.

Suggestions for a new atty?

Must have adjustable air flow, adjustable center pin, and look awesome. Preferably easy as pie to set up (like I'm not looking for resistance and non resistance wire Cos-play). Just a well made, sexy, rebuildable dripping atty. If it came in gold or brass, all the better... that's actually what attracted me to the Trident.

I just got an origen dripper. I don't think I have to explain what this dripper is. But if I do, read on. Haven't had time set it up yet so I can't comment on the ease of the build but the center pin in is screwed in and held by a nut on the other end. The center pin is somewhat adjustable. I say somewhat because there is a hole on the center pin for your coil but if adjusted too low, the nut will end up covering the hole. You also get 3 different AFC settings for a single and dual coils.

Images grabbed from vaporwall.

 

[Vwls]

I was looking at that dripper... When you say "somewhat adjustable" on the center pin, can you maybe measure it for me? How many millimeters below the bottom edge of the 510 connection can the screw extend, and how many millimeters from the bottom of the atty is the 510 post itself?

 

[Ryedan]

Vwls, you probably know all this, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to mention it. I have the Chemseis from FT and their Trident clone like yours. I also have Sony flat top batts. I just screwed the Trident's 510 screw in all the way and it's working fine for me. Here's how I assemble it.

The Trident with screw all the way in:

Then I screw the Trident on the top part of the Chemisis and screw the Chemesis battery contact screw in until it makes gentle contact:

Unscrew the bottom switch button a bit and assemble the rest of the Chemesis. Screw in the switch button until it makes gentle contact with the battery. This is what it looks like then:

As you can see there is not a lot of space left between the switch button and the shut off ring, but it does work and I don't have the shut off ring all the way up so there's a bit more travel available to the switch. I think you have the real Nemesis, but I also think they are pretty much the same.

 

[Vwls]

Edit - OK so you are making the adjustment at the bottom instead of the top, with the only ill effect being a shorter throw. KK I will try that thanks

 

[Ryedan]

That's the issue Vwls. No wonder you're having problems! A small brass screw with the right sized head on it would solve it as a quick fix. You can probably make a bigger head work too as there is the little kick ring to adjust body length with.

I would also email where you bought it from. They should help you. Mine is silver plated which is nice to have for the low resistance and low oxidation properties.

ETA: A SS screw would work well too.

 

[Vwls]

What is better for sub ohm vaping, silver plated or brass?

 

[Ryedan]

I would prefer silver plated copper, that would be the best for conductivity and oxidation resistance and I think that's what my Chemesis uses. My K100 uses chrome plated brass contacts and that works very well, though I think chrome is not all that conductive. SS is probably the worst for conductivity.

 

[savagemann]

Sounds like a simple solution would be some knurling on the post so it bites into the delrin a bit and doesn't slip.
Pretty easy to try.
But don't yell at me if you mess it up....lol
An easy way to build up some diameter and add some "teeth" to the post.....take a set of diagonal cutters and lightly squeeze them against the positive post where it needs to sit in the delrin.
Make about 6 marks with the cutters.
It will work if you're careful.
I've done it to several attys, and other various press fit items.
Don't go too hard or you may cut the post in half.

 

[Xobeloot]

a single wrap of PTFE pipe tape would likely serve the same purpose without the need for tooling. May be the better option for those not mechanically inclined.

 

[ta2dave76]

Now yall got me curious. How low should the center post be? Is this to low? Its a Trident v2 clone. Hits good.

 

[Xobeloot]

Mine all sit about level

Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2

 

[Ryedan]

All my posts are pretty much level too. I've never had an issue with the center post moving, but now that I know it can happen I've screwed the 510 screw in all the way and snugged it down to help keep it in place.

 

[Vwls]

Whoa! How'd your pos post get that low??

Now yall got me curious. How low should the center post be? Is this to low? Its a Trident v2 clone. Hits good.

 

[ta2dave76]

I dunno. It has never moved or spun.

Is there a way to get it level with the others?

Not trying to threadjack!

 

[Vwls]

I wish I could tell you - that is crazy low in the insulator. It's not affecting the performance at all? Have you conducted any voltage tests?