Trouble with new Satin/Blue Provari

[-GR-]

I wanted to start a thread to keep the tracking thread from getting cluttered and also maybe to help others if anyone else comes across the same issues. I will keep the thread updated as I make progress.

In the quote is the issue I am having with it and the email I sent in to support:

I received my satin/blue provari today. I don't know what might be going on but it isn't powering up right. I have tried multiple batteries and different end caps and extension caps.

An example would be normally whether there is an atty on my good one or not when you insert a batter and start to screw the cap on the light will blink. Then even if there is no atty attached I can still access the menu.

With the new one, if I don't have an atty attached and I insert a battery and start to screw the cap on the light never blinks. Then once I have the cap on completely it won't go in to the menu system with no atty attached.

If I attach an atty the light will blink when inserting a battery and screwing the cap on. I can also access the menu system. But if I try and take a hit it is like the voltage isn't there and if it is, it might be like 2 volts.

I don't know if it is a ground issue but I have cleaned the threads and tried multiple batteries and caps.

 

[-GR-]

The more I am thinking about it, it is almost like the circuit board isn't grounded until the atomizer is in place to help carry the ground.

 

[ricks]

Look inside at the circuit board and make sure it is sitting in the slides on both sides of the tube and straight.

 

[ricks]

If you can, try and take a picture of the circuit board and post it here. I'm curious

 

[DigitalKnight]

I'd contact provape

 

[-GR-]

It is all fixed. I had contacted Provape before posting this thread and as usual their customer service is astounding. I had a reply within a half hour.

After a couple emails back and forth with David I got the go ahead to pull her apart. We both agreed that it sounded like a grounding issue. I pulled the atomizer end off and sure enough the ground wire came apart at the solder joint.

I re-soldered it and put it back together and it is hitting like a champ and pretty as ever

Here are a couple pics of the wire:

 

[kickitback]

Nice work, solder-pro.

 

[-GR-]

I like to tinker and do a lot of work on equipment. I have also done a good bit of work on electronics and wiring and I like to solder LOL.

 

[ricks]

What did you use to get the top off?

 

[-GR-]

I have a couple of thin long flat tip punches. You have to go up through past the circuit board, preferably on the button side as to not mess up the display and tap it out. It is an interference fit and comes out fairly easy but not too easy.

I was able to push it all the way back in with my hands and didn't have to tap but it did take a good bit of pressure.

 

[ricks]

Thanks, I thought it was just pressed in. Is the circuit board glued in? If so, how long were the wires?

I have a couple of thin long flat tip punches. You have to go up through past the circuit board, preferably on the button side as to not mess up the display and tap it out. It is an interference fit and comes out fairly easy but not too easy.

I was able to push it all the way back in with my hands and didn't have to tap but it did take a good bit of pressure.

 

[-GR-]

Yes the circuit board is glued in, I actually think it is epoxy possibly. The wires were maybe 2" long, just long enough to use the needle nose pliers to hold the wire and get the soldering iron on the joint.

 

[ricks]

Thanks again, I was just curious.

Yes the circuit board is glued in, I actually think it is epoxy possibly. The wires were maybe 2" long, just long enough to use the needle nose pliers to hold the wire and get the soldering iron on the joint.

 

[-GR-]

You definitely want to be careful, the end cap has a good bit of weight since it is solid stainless and if it is punched out and not caught the weight and momentum could break the connections of the wires at the circuit board and that would be a lot more involved to fix.