Trustfire battery problem

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TODSHO

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I have had Trustfires for my box mod and never had an issue..
I know about the 5 click thing...I have had the vamo for a while and wanted to upgrade from the 18350's to the 18650's...will not turn on at all with these batteries. Works just fine with the 18350's....Now I dont know what batteries will work with it....These 18650's are protected batteries..could this be an issue? I thought any 18650 would work fine...guess not. Any recomendation on batteries?
 

cskent

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I have a set of Trustfire flames 18350's that I bought so I could stack them in a mech mod to get higher voltage. Tried them in my Vamo v3 and it wouldn't fire at all. They still work in the mech though so my guess is that there's something going on with the circuit protection in the batt. I'm running both AW imr's and AW flat topped li-ion's right now in my Vamo with no problem.
 

Stosh

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My AW flat top li-ion's are protected and work just fine in my Vamo V3 and my Tesla.

AW does not sell a flat top battery!!! All AW batteries are button top.
There are more counterfeit batteries out there than you can count. This makes WHERE you buy batteries more important than which battery you choose to buy.

@ OP - for any VV / VW mod you should use IMR batteries, safer and better performance.
Here's the technical explanation....https://provape.zendesk.com/entries/22338247-Can-I-Use-this-IC-Protected-Battery-in-My-ProVari-
 
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Rickajho

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AW does not sell a flat top battery!!! All AW batteries are button top.
There are more counterfeit batteries out there than you can count. This makes WHERE you buy batteries more important than which battery you choose to buy.

@ OP - for any VV / VW mod you should use IMT batteries, safer and better performance.
Here's the technical explanation....https://provape.zendesk.com/entries/22338247-Can-I-Use-this-IC-Protected-Battery-in-My-ProVari-

What Stosh said - AW does not produce any type of battery that would require a protection circuit.

You guys really shouldn't be using protected batteries at this point - especially if stacking them in a mechanical mod. If the protection circuit fails - and they have been known to - all it takes is a split second for a pipe bomb incident to happen. When an ICR battery vents during a hard short you don't have time to pause and wonder what is about to happen. Big difference between running protected ICR batteries in ye olde box mods of many years ago and completely unprotected mechanicals.
 

DaveP

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Excuse me you two. Yes they do AW 2600 ICR is a flat top, available in both flat top and button top, and they come from Mr AW himself. (Wan Hoi) Andrew Wan to us folks.

Maybe the original poster should offer a picture of his battery showing the end terminals. Does the Vamo work with flat tops? My provari won't, but my Sigelei Zmax will. It's all about whether the center post contact is recessed between the board flanges or protrudes.
 

Stosh

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Excuse me you two. Yes they do AW 2600 ICR is a flat top, available in both flat top and button top, and they come from Mr AW himself. (Wan Hoi) Andrew Wan to us folks.

Oops...:oops:....never looked at the AW ICR that closely. Those are only Max. Discharge Rate : 5.8A so somewhat low drain. Protected batteries still are not recommended for regulated, protected mods. Two circuits do not work better than one...:)
 

TODSHO

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The 18350's that came with my Vamo are flat top ICR 18350. The 18650's that I bought are protected button tops...wont work. I did not do the research before I ordered them so it's my own fault :facepalm:
I wish I would have asked before hand. Hopefully others will benefit from my mistake. Lots of good info posted here!
 

Switched

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Oops...:oops:....never looked at the AW ICR that closely. Those are only Max. Discharge Rate : 5.8A so somewhat low drain. Protected batteries still are not recommended for regulated, protected mods. Two circuits do not work better than one...:)

Before folks went wacky with sub Ohm coils, they performed like champs for 2 days :) Pretty soon folks will be wanting 40A capable batts, and in all honesty I don't want to be around for that. You and I have been around the block more than once Stosh, folks don't know how good they have it compared to what WE started with, and they are still chasing rainbows.
 

DaveP

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Before folks went wacky with sub Ohm coils, they performed like champs for 2 days :) Pretty soon folks will be wanting 40A capable batts, and in all honesty I don't want to be around for that. You and I have been around the block more than once Stosh, folks don't know how good they have it compared to what WE started with, and they are still chasing rainbows.

I view the sub ohm craze the way I viewed the hot rod automobile crowd of my youth. Why would anyone want to drive an 11 second quarter mile drag strip grade automobile on the street, anyway? The answer is just because they can and it makes people look at them.

Clouds and taste are available within very safe limits. I crank my Aspire Nautilus back a bit (6w to 7w) and get huge clouds of vapor and great flavor. 5w would probably produce a stream of vapor equal to the cigarettes I used to smoke.

That and the fact that PG and VG are both lung irritants, even more in heavy concentrations.
 

DaveP

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The mod of the future will incorporate temperature sensing, which IMO would be the most accurate way to a variable vape. Amps, volts, and resistance are the current measurements of vape quality, but all those are methods of obtaining a regulated temperature of a coil immersed in juice. Some day in the future there will be threads where people discuss what temperature is best for a given juice.

The inhibitor for that method involves the need to have a relatively expensive thermistor in the juice bowl. That in itself would make an atomizer much more expensive and harder to rebuild and would require two more wires and a multi-contact scheme. The current two wire, throwaway/rebuildable model makes more sense.
 
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Stosh

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The mod of the future will incorporate temperature sensing, which IMO would be the most accurate way to a variable vape. Amps, volts, and resistance are the current measurements of vape quality, but all those are methods of obtaining a regulated temperature of a coil immersed in juice. Some day in the future there will be threads where people discuss what temperature is best for a given juice.

The inhibitor for that method involves the need to have a relatively expensive thermistor in the juice bowl. That in itself would make an atomizer much more expensive and harder to rebuild. The current throwaway/rebuildable model makes more sense.

Gee, I still like a good battery such as the AW 5.8A (over twice what I would use) in a simple box, with a 5 amp horn switch and 510 connector. I will still use variable resistance (plug in the right Ω coil) to get it in the ballpark, fine adjustment by pulsing the fire button for best output. Build a new PV for $5 - $10 and use a magic marker to put a serial number on the bottom (now I'm in the zone...:laugh:) if I had artistic ability, I could add a logo too.
 
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