Trying to make an E-pipe

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Pharoah

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Jul 5, 2009
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Sun City, AZ
After stumbling around on the web. I found a pipe I thought would make an excellent E-pipe. The Pipe is called Aristocob.
reference link ---->ARISTOCOB

I got the soldering done tonight. I planned to use a CR2 battery and 901 auto switch, atty and carts. I even wired in the LEDs from the end of a 901 battery.



When I made contact with the battery. The lights say I have a dead battery. I volt tested the battery and is shows 3 volts. So I guess not enough amps to work.

A cr123 might barely fit in the bowl. I might try this next.
(yes, I have considered buying a 601)

I would be grateful for any insight or help.:)

By the way, I am sold on the battery operated soldering iron. Worked great...:D
 

Dave Rickey

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ECF Veteran
Aug 30, 2009
191
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Austin TX
Well, since I can't start my own threads, I guess I'll have to hijack yours, sorry.

Here's my prototype e-Pipe 1 week ago:

prototype1cropped.jpg

That's a CR123 under that black heatshrink, with a connector for the power at the end of the green heatshrink. the red and black wires lead to an RCA connector, which goes through a nasty hacked-together adapter to the 801 atomizer. After that picture I connected a switch, and it actually worked great, although I don't have any pictures.

Then I tore everything out, bored the bowl of the pipe wider, built a new battery pack around an 18350, shortened the stem end, and built a proper RCA-801 adapter (I also have a 901 adapter) and added lights and a safety switch. Here's what it looks like now:

prototype1acropped.jpg

Pretty much the same state of assembly, but with a lot more features and more wires. The battery pack is an 18350 with PCB added. You can't see the LED's from this angle (they face towards the user, the yellow one will light when you are vaping and the green one when you hit the button but the safety switch has been turned off. The little red can in the upper left corner is my next-generation battery pack, you can see the small gold-plated coax fitting if you squint (the bigger black patch is left over from an experiment that didn't pan out.

Materials wise, it's about $20, it took about $500 in tools to go from prototype 1 (which only needed a Dremel and hand drill. plus a little soldering and a butane torch) to 1A (which required a drill press with cross-adjustable vice, an ESD soldering station, and some really hard to find drill bits).

--Dave
 

Pharoah

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ECF Veteran
Jul 5, 2009
49
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Sun City, AZ
Those non rechargeable batteries can't provide the necessary current for the atomizer, you need a rechargeable.
Thanks for the info. I will have order rechargeable batteries now. I was hoping to test it with a regular battery first. Looks like it will work then.

Where did you get the pipe?
E-bay $19.99 shipped. Have seen 'em sell from $7 to $75. I was browsing the web for a tobacco pipe that I could make an E-pipe out of. When I stumbled on it. Large open bowl, and threaded lid looked ideal. I think I read somewhere that production ran 1962 to 1982. So it's about 27+ yrs old. More info in this blog;---->Aristocob Art Deco Metal Corn Cob Smoking Pipe & Missouri Meerschaum Corn Cob Pipe Blog

Interesting mod you are making there. :)
---
Thank you, I thought it would be neat.:cool:
I was hoping to be sly and have a working devise before I popped pics here. But, I am grateful for the help. Was afraid I was going to have to trash it:(. There is still hope. LOL

John
 

warp1900

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 17, 2009
759
16
TX
Thank you, I thought it would be neat.:cool:
I was hoping to be sly and have a working devise before I popped pics here. But, I am grateful for the help. Was afraid I was going to have to trash it:(. There is still hope. LOL

John

Thank you for posting the pics, info and hope you post more once its done, I really like the looks of that pipe and what you are doing with it.

:thumbs:


-
 

Hangtime

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 3, 2009
457
2
52
After stumbling around on the web. I found a pipe I thought would make an excellent E-pipe. The Pipe is called Aristocob.
reference link ---->ARISTOCOB

I got the soldering done tonight. I planned to use a CR2 battery and 901 auto switch, atty and carts. I even wired in the LEDs from the end of a 901 battery.



When I made contact with the battery. The lights say I have a dead battery. I volt tested the battery and is shows 3 volts. So I guess not enough amps to work.

A cr123 might barely fit in the bowl. I might try this next.
(yes, I have considered buying a 601)

I would be grateful for any insight or help.:)

By the way, I am sold on the battery operated soldering iron. Worked great...:D
Nice looking pipe man, and you know that soldering iron will vape well too right?. Nice work, cant wait to see it finnished and all buttoned up.:)
 

Dave Rickey

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 30, 2009
191
3
Austin TX
Well, here's the finished prototype:
ptototype1c.jpg
That top cap is the .... end of a dead flashlight, it's way too thick because my wiring method was designed to be easy to change on the fly while I worked things out, and there's a lot of excess wire and heatshrink that has nowhere else to go.

Notice the amber LED, that tells you it's operational (actually sending power to the RCA fitting:
prototype1d.jpg
If the safety switch is engaged, triggering the button lights a green LED and no power goes to the RCA fitting:
prototype1e.jpg
And here's the basis of the next model:
prototype2.jpg
I won't need to run wires outside the bowl except for the battery fitting (I'm going to use strips of ribbon cable from an old black IDE cable, now that all my drives are SATA, I have a bunch laying around). The top will be capped off with a rubber pad and a large brass washer, I'll be putting the switch on the side under the index finger instead of under the thumb. The combination will let me reduce my form factor for the cap to around 1/4 of an inch (rather than the full inch it is now).

The battery pack you see there is a keychain pill bottle with the fob portion removed, this one is red because that's what I had lying around, future versions will be silver (cheaper and better looking), black if I can find a paint that will stick reliably. I'll use a single LED for status, red for safe mode and green or amber for operational. I don't like the way the safety switch I used looks, so much so I didn't even take a picture from an angle that would show it. I'll keep the switch in the design, but come up with something much more polished. Functionally the prototype is great, I vaped all day (2ml worth or so) and used only half the battery capacity. I'll need to make a custom charger, as making the battery removable independently complicated assembly too much, I don't want a potentially unprotected cell feeding this, and it loses the idiot-proof functionality of the connector.

Even as an ugly hacked-together prototype, this would do better on the "would you want to take this through airport security" test than the sonic screwdriver, pipe bomb, and battery case mods that are the standard these days. The new model will be much sleeker and polished, and it will keep the significant features; safety switch, indicator light, large 1200mAh battery, and a safety vent for the cell that points the positive end down). If the battery goes into thermal runaway and started venting, a little plug of hot glue will get popped out and release the pressure (otherwise, what I've got there isn't a battery pack as much as a small incendiary grenade, even with a protection PCB).

--Dave
 
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