Trying to polish one of my babies...

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el_lou

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I thought it was a lot easier, but no damn way I can get it to look as stunning as some of the ones I've seen on here.

I have tons of sandpaper ranging from 400 - 2000 grit. I have a Dremel with a polishing kit. And still nothing. I'm not a genius at any of this and brand new holding a Dremel in my hand, so maybe I just need to learn a little?

What's an "easy" way to do this?
 

el_lou

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What are you starting with? Pics would be good too...

I've already removed the coat of paint, so I guess the hard part is done with. I've also sanded it down tons. But, when do I know it's ready for the polishing? I've tried it a few times and I still see scratches on it.

Also, I'm not great at the actual "polishing", as it's the first time I do it. How much and how to completely remove the excess...

I'll see if I can add a pic or two.
 

el_lou

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I'll be able to post up some pics tomorrow.

Right now, I'm sanding it down till I find myself using 2000 grit. And that's great but 2000 still leaves scratches. Will polishing get rid of that?

This is what I would love to accomplish. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nd-w-basic-polish-t-800-a-2.html#post10741846

Also, those little crevices and tight spots on the top of the Reo where the well is... How the hell?
 

Maverickbo

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Use 1500 grit sand paper then 2500 grit. Polish with dremmel and polishing attachment and polishing compound.
y7ere8y6.jpg

End result on the left
 

Ian444

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I'll be able to post up some pics tomorrow.

Right now, I'm sanding it down till I find myself using 2000 grit. And that's great but 2000 still leaves scratches. Will polishing get rid of that?

This is what I would love to accomplish. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nd-w-basic-polish-t-800-a-2.html#post10741846

Also, those little crevices and tight spots on the top of the Reo where the well is... How the hell?

If the 2000 is still leaving scratches, are they scratches from 2000 or from some previous coarser sandpaper? Just asking as each successive finer grit is supposed to get rid of the scratches from the previous grit, so the scratches become finer and finer. You can always do a spot check by sanding with the 2000 in a different direction from the residual scratches to see if the scratches all go in the new direction. If so, all good. Once you get to 2000, I find the Autosol chrome polish does a good job, then finish it off with the even finer Mothers Aluminum Polish. Use a good felt rag with the mothers, as the fabric itself can cause fine scratches. A cotton buffing wheel fitted to a small bench grinder is also good for finishing.

Regarding tight spots, curves etc around the drip well, you can use a wooden dowell (round wooden rod) and attach a small square of sandpaper to that with double sided tape. Choose the diameter of the wooden rod to fit the curve of the part you want to sand. Or make do with what is on hand, wrap some sandpaper around a pen/round file/cylindrical object of choice and use that.

It really doesn't take long once you get the hang of it, once the paint is off, a couple of hours should be plenty, some do it a lot quicker than that, depends on how much detail you want.

ETA - I usually double or less the grit of the sandpapers used in succession e.g. 400 > 800 > 1500 >2000 or 2500 or whatever is on hand > Autosol > Mother's
 
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nerak

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Mother's Mag is great to polish. You must use a clean soft cloth and always a clean spot. It will get really black. It will give you the perfect polish and shine. No dremel needed. Just some work.

Just keep putting on the polish and removing. You will get there!

Never Dull is wonderful for keeping the finish bright!
 
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Filthy-Beast

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If the 2000 is still leaving scratches, are they scratches from 2000 or from some previous coarser sandpaper? Just asking as each successive finer grit is supposed to get rid of the scratches from the previous grit, so the scratches become finer and finer. You can always do a spot check by sanding with the 2000 in a different direction from the residual scratches to see if the scratches all go in the new direction. If so, all good. Once you get to 2000, I find the Autosol chrome polish does a good job, then finish it off with the even finer Mothers Aluminum Polish. Use a good felt rag with the mothers, as the fabric itself can cause fine scratches. A cotton buffing wheel fitted to a small bench grinder is also good for finishing.

Regarding tight spots, curves etc around the drip well, you can use a wooden dowell (round wooden rod) and attach a small square of sandpaper to that with double sided tape. Choose the diameter of the wooden rod to fit the curve of the part you want to sand. Or make do with what is on hand, wrap some sandpaper around a pen/round file/cylindrical object of choice and use that.

It really doesn't take long once you get the hang of it, once the paint is off, a couple of hours should be plenty, some do it a lot quicker than that, depends on how much detail you want.

ETA - I usually double or less the grit of the sandpapers used in succession e.g. 400 > 800 > 1500 >2000 or 2500 or whatever is on hand > Autosol > Mother's

Really great point, if you switch to higher grit too soon or skip a step, the scratches left behind will be too deep for the grit you're using to take out efficiently. Also let the paper do the work, apply a lot of pressure can cause deeper scratches.

Just make sure you add a little bit of water when you sand it and wash off all the debris and dirt to avoid scratches! You will still be able to find hairline scratches from 2000 grits sandpaper but they will go away after polishing with Mother's mag polish .
Another really good point, I typically have trickle of water coming out of the faucet and sand under that.
 

el_lou

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Really great point, if you switch to higher grit too soon or skip a step, the scratches left behind will be too deep for the grit you're using to take out efficiently. Also let the paper do the work, apply a lot of pressure can cause deeper scratches.

Another really good point, I typically have trickle of water coming out of the faucet and sand under that.

Thanks FB. First time I ever sand anything like this down, while trying to achieve something so smooth. Today I took some time, read through some of these posts a bit more thoroughly and think I've come to a nice point. Tomorrow after work (I believe I get my new sub-ohm kit for this Reo tomorrow), I'll apply the polish, which will also be my first time polishing anything. I'm pretty sure it will look good. Maybe not as good as what I posted earlier, but good... nonetheless.

This forum inspires me so much, I have to step back a bit and analyze situations. Lol.

I'll keep you guys updated.

PS- Not sure who you are exactly, but welcome back. :D
 
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Filthy-Beast

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Thanks FB. First time I ever sand anything like this down, while trying to achieve something so smooth. Today I took some time, read through some of these posts a bit more thoroughly and think I've come to a nice point. Tomorrow after work (I believe I get my new sub-ohm kit for this Reo tomorrow), I'll apply the polish, which will also be my first time polishing anything. I'm pretty sure it will look good. Maybe not as good as what I posted earlier, but good... nonetheless.

This forum inspires me so much, I have to step back a bit and analyze situations. Lol.

I'll keep you guys updated.

PS- Not sure who you are exactly, but welcome back. :D

Thanks, I'm just a trouble maker. You'll be surprised at how much of an effect polishes like Mother's Mag have.
 

el_lou

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Thanks, I'm just a trouble maker. You'll be surprised at how much of an effect polishes like Mother's Mag have.

You know, last night before heading home, I swung by Lowes to get a few things. Mainly stuff for drilling purposes. But I had a nice long conversation with one of the employees there and he actually recommended Noxon over Mothers Mag. I did get it because it was cheap.

What do you guys think? Anyone ever use Noxon? Also, if it's easy to just... repolish later, I guess, I don't mind testing it out. You know... For Science!
 

MikeMills

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What do you guys think? Anyone ever use Noxon? Also, if it's easy to just... repolish later, I guess, I don't mind testing it out. You know... For Science!

It's probably as good as most, good reviews.

I've used Flitz, Semi Chrome, Mothers and some others on various polishing projects . Most of them work pretty well.
 

Filthy-Beast

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You know, last night before heading home, I swung by Lowes to get a few things. Mainly stuff for drilling purposes. But I had a nice long conversation with one of the employees there and he actually recommended Noxon over Mothers Mag. I did get it because it was cheap.

What do you guys think? Anyone ever use Noxon? Also, if it's easy to just... repolish later, I guess, I don't mind testing it out. You know... For Science!

It's probably as good as most, good reviews.

I've used Flitz, Semi Chrome, Mothers and some others on various polishing projects . Most of them work pretty well.

give it a try. It cannot do anything a little sand paper can't fix. :p
 

soulcatcher

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So many good options... Experiment and find what works for you. I've had great luck using Tripoli ie brown polishing compound from Harbor Freight. Works well on metal like SS and brass as well as a wood polish. Its dirt cheap and is a great multi-purpose polish.

*** If the compound is really dry I'll add some mineral oil or M.O./beeswax blend to my cloth/polishing wheel to help soften the compound.
 

distortoblotto

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Howdy Lou, One of my passions it the restorations of cars, motorcycles, minibikes and vintage bicycles. I have a few tips for you.

1st, Never introduce metals when polishing aluminum as bad things can happen such as discoloration and staining if any moisture or oils are introduced to the surface.

2nd, Always start off in steps form the coarsest to finest. ( Scotch Brite pads or similar wheels are a good thing)

3rd, It is always best to cut down the surface in one direction ( back and forth rather than circular) as circular introduces a cobb web effect.

4th, To get that mirror like finish after sanding, four step polishing rouge is your friend. The steps are as follows, Black Emory- Brown Tripoli-white rouge and for the final finish Jewelers rouge. ( I have dedicated wheels for each step) Kits are readily available at places such as Amazon.

When all is said and done application of a fine polish such as Flitz (less is better) with a soft micro fiber towel will help you maintain that mirror like finish.

I hope this helps.......
 

el_lou

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Howdy Lou, One of my passions it the restorations of cars, motorcycles, minibikes and vintage bicycles. I have a few tips for you.

1st, Never introduce metals when polishing aluminum as bad things can happen such as discoloration and staining if any moisture or oils are introduced to the surface.

2nd, Always start off in steps form the coarsest to finest. ( Scotch Brite pads or similar wheels are a good thing)

3rd, It is always best to cut down the surface in one direction ( back and forth rather than circular) as circular introduces a cobb web effect.

4th, To get that mirror like finish after sanding, four step polishing rouge is your friend. The steps are as follows, Black Emory- Brown Tripoli-white rouge and for the final finish Jewelers rouge. ( I have dedicated wheels for each step) Kits are readily available at places such as Amazon.

When all is said and done application of a fine polish such as Flitz (less is better) with a soft micro fiber towel will help you maintain that mirror like finish.

I hope this helps.......

Thanks for the reply, distort. Here's what I ended I ended up with : http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/577221-ok-ladies-gents-id-like-introduce.html

Not bad for my first time ever... :)
 
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