Sorry not sure what you mean by center. I sealed the needle into the atty connector and there is a little piece of tubing on the end to create the seal to the bottle. I did not totally remove the clips that held the battery in so it holds the bottle in place and tight to the tube/needle. I just pop the top off the bottle and fill like normal. I made a few bottle so I can easily switch flavours. My mr puffer had the button on the side which was real easy to fire if I did not turn it off. I also found it awkward to press a button near the bottom.
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Sorry not sure what you mean by center. I sealed the needle into the atty connector and there is a little piece of tubing on the end to create the seal to the bottle. I did not totally remove the clips that held the battery in so it holds the bottle in place and tight to the tube/needle. I just pop the top off the bottle and fill like normal. I made a few bottle so I can easily switch flavours. My mr puffer had the button on the side which was real easy to fire if I did not turn it off. I also found it awkward to press a button near the bottom.
Nice build hotone. Thanks for the pics. The plastic tube in the bottle is a great idea. It eliminates the issues of metal soaking in juice.
After seeing all of the 3-AAA boxes being built, I think I will have to try one. I just need to decide what features to add in the extra space. Maybe a step-up transformer to get 5V, or another batt in parallel to get double capacity.
Re solder not sticking: There are really only two causes for this. 1) Surfaces are not clean enough. 2) BOTH pieces being soldered are not hot enough to melt the solder. I think the difficulty with soldering the outer connector is mostly related to the second.
The outer connector is harder to heat up because it has quite a bit of mass (a lot to heat up) and the mass is spread out (a lot of surface area) so it dissipates the heat as quickly as you can get it in with the tiny tip of a soldering iron. One way I deal with this is to insulate the connector with a piece of paper towel. Just roll it and stuff it through the middle; then wrap it around the outside. Just leave the small spot where you are connecting your wire exposed. This should help reduce the heat lost to the air and allow you to get the piece up to temp quicker.
After seeing all of the 3-AAA boxes being built, I think I will have to try one. I just need to decide what features to add in the extra space. Maybe a step-up transformer to get 5V, or another batt in parallel to get double capacity.
Re solder not sticking: There are really only two causes for this. 1) Surfaces are not clean enough. 2) BOTH pieces being soldered are not hot enough to melt the solder. I think the difficulty with soldering the outer connector is mostly related to the second.
The outer connector is harder to heat up because it has quite a bit of mass (a lot to heat up) and the mass is spread out (a lot of surface area) so it dissipates the heat as quickly as you can get it in with the tiny tip of a soldering iron. One way I deal with this is to insulate the connector with a piece of paper towel. Just roll it and stuff it through the middle; then wrap it around the outside. Just leave the small spot where you are connecting your wire exposed. This should help reduce the heat lost to the air and allow you to get the piece up to temp quicker.
Here is what the bottle looks like with the top off. The tubing is 3/32" ID and seems to fit perfectly. The bottom I cut at an angle though you cannot really tell here.
So the tip is not glued onto the needle sticking out of atty you just push it on the botttle? How is needle sealed onto the atty? What kind of glue did you use? First time I used a 2 part epoxy and it did not hold then I used gorillla glue. That has held up 3 weeks and counting.
I was always rough on 510 atty's if I got 2 weeks that was good. With my botom feed mod monday will be 4 weeks and never even cleaned the atty still working like new. I vape about 4 times then squeeze bottle to reload and good for next time. I actually flood the atty and let the excess flow back into bottle
2 weeks?!? How do you clean them?
You might want to give my method a try (in my sig). I'm using a 510 atty right now that has been in service for over a year and still hits like new.
From what i have read here on ecf for a heavy users (3ml a day) that is about the normal life span. I have done all the cleaning methods but when the atty pops it is done
Thanks highping, I wanted something that I could easily switch flavours with and did not want a metal tube soaking in the juice based on your other thread. It leaves a little juice in the SS tubing but I just put a tissue at the bottom and blow through it from the top. I notice no residue flavour switching between a waffle and menthol or visa versa.
I read through a lot of the modding threads before all my supplies came and many people seem to like the JB Weld. It seemed like the best choice both for heat resistance, liquid resistance and health concerns. I used that both to attach the atty connector to the case and the positive plate to the inside top of the case. I like the mr puffer I had but it leaked and the heat of the atty combined with juice spills, I suspect broke the epoxy around the atty connector.
One of the most difficult things was getting the tubing over the SS tubing to help with the seal. If I do it again I would put it on before I epoxied it to the case.
Sorry for my lack of art skills be here is a diagram that might explain the connector better.
I read through a lot of the modding threads before all my supplies came and many people seem to like the JB Weld. It seemed like the best choice both for heat resistance, liquid resistance and health concerns. I used that both to attach the atty connector to the case and the positive plate to the inside top of the case. I like the mr puffer I had but it leaked and the heat of the atty combined with juice spills, I suspect broke the epoxy around the atty connector.
One of the most difficult things was getting the tubing over the SS tubing to help with the seal. If I do it again I would put it on before I epoxied it to the case.
Sorry for my lack of art skills be here is a diagram that might explain the connector better.
May I ask ( if it hasn't been already ) where you bought the clear plastic tubing? That's a great idea, would like to try it out.
You can get clear plastic tubing at lowes/home depot. They have lots of different sizes, but I'm not sure if they go that small. Worth a look anyway.
I bought the 3/32 ID tube at a local science supply store. I checked out home depot and aquarium supply stores but they did not have anything small enough. The thinner stuff I salvaged from my mr puffer.
I did find an online source but shipping to Canada is unreasonable but fine for those in the US I believe.
The tubing inside the bottle is 3/32"ID 5/32"OD 1/32"Wall
Tygon® Laboratory Tubing 3/32" I.D. 5/32" O.D. and 1/32" wall | U.S. Plastic Corp.
The stuff I have on the SS needle is 1/32" ID 3/32" OD and 1/32" wall. Very tight fit I would recommend putting it on before you epoxy the connector in place. Cut off the excess after.
Tygon® Laboratory Tubing 1/32" I.D. 3/32" O.D. and 1/32" wall | U.S. Plastic Corp.
They also sell dropper bottles that I believe should work. I got mine from madvapes.
3cc White Cylinder Bottle with Dropper Cap | U.S. Plastic Corp.
I'm a noob to vaping in general, I bought my first PV just a few weeks ago, I had virtually no prior soldering experience, and I'm proud to say I just built this as my first mod, and better yet, I didn't screw it up and it actually works!!! I just wanted to post here to thank highping for this tutorial and (why lie about it) show off a bit. below I've posted a couple pics of the finished project. Seriously, if I could do this with just a little bit of research and patience, than nearly anyone can. The only problems I ran into were with the brass tubing, which I bought from a local hobby shop and was labeled as 1/16, was just slightly too large to fit in the bottom of the atty. Luckily I was able to carefully file it down with the dremel until it fit. Also the center core of the connector got soldered to the brass pipe on a slight angle, which I thought would be a problem at first but it actually works to my advantage as the tube points to the bottom corner of the bottle allowing it to pick up more juice when running low just by tilting it. I also noticed that soldering would be a hell of a lot easier if I had 3 arms, haha!
IMGA0074.jpg picture by warmturkey - Photobucket
IMGA0075.jpg picture by warmturkey - Photobucket
Havin trouble figuring out how to embed images directly in the post instead of just linking it, if anyone could pm me and help me out with that I'd appreciate it, thanks
IMGA0074.jpg picture by warmturkey - Photobucket
IMGA0075.jpg picture by warmturkey - Photobucket
Havin trouble figuring out how to embed images directly in the post instead of just linking it, if anyone could pm me and help me out with that I'd appreciate it, thanks
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Thanks WB for clearing that up for my idiot brain.
Thanks again highping, now that I know I can do this kinda stuff I can't wait to build something else.
Thanks again highping, now that I know I can do this kinda stuff I can't wait to build something else.
With this little DIY mod you will put a lot of guys out of business, but that's OK with me.
Spent 30+ years in a telephone switchroom working on equipment so this is a piece of cake.
Ever thought about putting in a over current circuit as it will save a battery for an early demise.
Good work though. Keep it up.
louis
Spent 30+ years in a telephone switchroom working on equipment so this is a piece of cake.
Ever thought about putting in a over current circuit as it will save a battery for an early demise.
Good work though. Keep it up.
louis 1'st would like to thank you for posting this great mod especially for us folks who do not have $ to buy the expensive mods.
Question's: I need some help ordering...which 510 connector do I purchase (the link in the OP is dead) Do I get the Luer Lock Needle 18 gauge 1.5"?
Which switch is recommended?
Thanks to all!
Question's: I need some help ordering...which 510 connector do I purchase (the link in the OP is dead) Do I get the Luer Lock Needle 18 gauge 1.5"?
Which switch is recommended?
Thanks to all!
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I ordered the parts for this. But i want to add a drip well if i can. Any idea on where i can get some of these?
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