Tutorial: Juicebox for around $8

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xLowEndx

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mylose64

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I just installed the LED and was trying to figure out why it wasn't working. I took the entire thing apart and resoldered everything.

I showed it to my brother today, who is good with electronics, and he said "did you turn the on/off switch to on?"

:( I'm such a noob.

But now it all works, I just need some epoxy and i'm good to go :D

Thanks for the mod instructions! I thought the soldering was going to be difficult (first time ever doing it) but it was a piece of cake :D
 

mylose64

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Just finished it!

I was pretty scrared it wouldn't work after I put all the parts together, but sure enough it works like a charm.

I didn't have the brass tube so I bought a blunt needle off of madvapes. It was a little too small; the pipe only reaches about halfway through the bottle, but it still works if the bottle is full.

I'll eventually have to find a very small plastic tube to put over the metal tube so it reaches the bottom of the bottle, but for now it works.

Now that it's completed, I didn't think it was too hard for my first mod. I only managed to burn myself once by accidentally picking up the Soldering Iron by the metal (ouch!) But I didn't get burned too bad. I just ran to the sink and ran my hand under cold water.

Here is the final product.

ecig.jpg

Sry for the image quality

I also didn't have a drill, so I had to use a combination of an Exacto Blade and a Lighter lol.
 
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Para

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thanks for all the detailed instructions
i am going to try to make a few of these
any ideas where to get a catch cup or how to make one?
Hardware store.....You can mod a finishing washer or a 1/2" sweat valve. I prefer the sweat valve because it looks better, works better, and can be modded to your preferences. jmo

blue2-1.jpg
 

dragonlover

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iuseaspork

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Just finished it!

I was pretty scrared it wouldn't work after I put all the parts together, but sure enough it works like a charm.

I didn't have the brass tube so I bought a blunt needle off of madvapes. It was a little too small; the pipe only reaches about halfway through the bottle, but it still works if the bottle is full.

I'll eventually have to find a very small plastic tube to put over the metal tube so it reaches the bottom of the bottle, but for now it works.

Now that it's completed, I didn't think it was too hard for my first mod. I only managed to burn myself once by accidentally picking up the Soldering Iron by the metal (ouch!) But I didn't get burned too bad. I just ran to the sink and ran my hand under cold water.

Here is the final product.

View attachment 71763

Sry for the image quality

I also didn't have a drill, so I had to use a combination of an Exacto Blade and a Lighter lol.


Perhaps some heat shrink tubing from the hardware store. You can heat it up at the needle to snug it up real well.
 
Is anyone using this mod with "High Drain 14500 battery and LR attys"? ... or would these burn out some of the parts?

If it's just the switch used here that's not up to the task, suppose I could upgrade on that part.

Also, has anyone top-mounted the switch, ...possible in this box?

I can't say on the LR atty's but there was a top button mod in this thread post #242.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/95728-tutorial-juicebox-around-8-a-25.html#post3063890
 

jimbalny

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I measured the inner diameter and outter diameter of the tubes on my reo and just ordered some of this: PharMed® Tubing 1/16" ID x 3/16" OD x 1/16" Wall | U.S. Plastic Corp.

And the bottles that I'm hoping are the same: 6cc Natural Cylinder Bottle with Dropper Cap | U.S. Plastic Corp.

Then my plan is to find a SS tube with the OD able to fit in the tube's ID and try soldering that to an atty connector's center post. Then hopefully figure out a way where the top part is sealed off from the solder. If it doesn't work out then at the very least I'll have 20 extra bottles for my reo after I pick up the viton o-rings :vapor:
 

vegasvapn

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Hey man,
Great thread!!!! works great! I bought parts to make 5,,,First one worked perfect...However I have one question. How do you know when the battery is done? before it puffs? I fly RC planes and I know if you run the battery down too far it puffs and the battery is done....It can even explode.

I know that my 510 ego's start blinking when the voltage is at like 3.2 or 3 volts...
What kind of circuit can be added to make this happen? can it be ordered? or do I need to make my own?

Todd
 

vegasvapn

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the connector you get has a hole in it. Most atomizers also have a hole in them. So when you put a tube through the bottle and throughout the connector and into the atomizer, it floods the chamber the same as dripping fluid into it. Then you can hit it with voltage and you get the vapor. You have to squeeze the bottle to push the juice up into the atomizer.

If you want a regular vapor you do the same thing with out the tube and the connector with the hole in it. They come with and without the holes. IT works great. once you get the pieces and then go throughout the tutorial it all makes sense. Just make sure you get the connectors with out a seal in it.

TOdd
 

WindLvr

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I know it has been awhile since this post has been active, but I was looking through the forum and this caught my eye. It just so happens I have all the parts on hand to make a few of these, so I am going to give it a go. I just finished reading through the entire thread, and now I have a question for HighPing. I believe it was around post #42 or so where you mentioned a mechanical switch. Could you please elaborate on this? All of the mods I have made have used some sort of momentary switch, but I am interested in building something that has a mechanical switch. I haven't had much luck in finding the information explaining in detail how to create such a switch. I noticed you were using a nail, and I am assuming that you are somehow or another completing the circuit by pushing on the nail? I just don't quite understand it. Anyone care to explain, or have an example showing detail of how the mechanical switch works?

Cheers,

Mike
 

asdaq

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It is post #61. A switch is just a break in the circuit (wiring) that is completed by pressing the switch. As best as I can make out from the pic, the ground wire is attached to a bent nail rather than the negative battery terminal. By using the piece of battery spring for the switch, pressing the nail brings the wire (black?) from the master switch into contact with the negative battery contact. At least that is my understanding from the pic, it is rather blurry. The nail could be upgraded to a screw and nut or a Chicago screw for a little better ooompf. There could be more done to it, but this needs to stay pretty small.
 

Big Mac

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Howdy Folks,

Well, I see some others have discovered this thread as I have. I'm heading to madvapes tomorrow to order up some of the parts, others I'm running to the local Radio shack to pickup right away.

I think I understand most everything and most of what I'm fuzzy on will become apparent when the build starts, but there is a question or two. I have seen a few different batts mentioned, using this build, which of the batts have folks used and gotten satisfactory results from....what ohm rating should be used for the atty, and please don't say standard, as I'm really new at vaping in general, and don't understand "standard".

Thanks folks,
Big Mac
 
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