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You don't really have to use the center connector. If you have good epoxy putty, you can just use your tube as the center connection (see pic).
The easiest way to do this is to screw your atty (old atty) into the outer connector. The stick your tube in as far as is will go (then back it off just a bit). Then just mash some putty into the back of the connector, while holding the tube centered at the back of the connector. The atty will hold its end exactly where it needs to be. Then just let that setup for a while (10 minutes or so, depending on the putty) before removing your atty. You may have to clean it up a little on the inside (atty side) of the connector.
The only problem with this is that as atty holes vary slightly, some may not make good contact. The tube needs to be kind of snug in the hole of your atty to make electrical contact. When I was making my 6ml/18650 version, I had a 'grab-bag' of tubing to play with, so I just used one tube slightly larger than the hole, and one slightly smaller. You can see it in the pic.
Note: you should mash in a little more putty than I did.
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Highping, Not sure if the pictures are going to work that I have placed in this post.
If your 510 connector doesn't have a center hole than HP's original method wont work. You need a batt connector with a center hole. I guess you could take it apart and drill a hole, but its just easier to order one with a hole in it.
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The original method won't work, but the one in post 122 will. You just replace the atty center connection with the pipe itself.
I tried this and failed miserabely...especially while trying to cut and adjust the 1/16th tubing. It was an ugly ugly site.
Now that I ripped both isolators...I'm going to try this method, and not use the center connector and see how that works out. Problem is I don't have the tools to cut the 1/16 aluminum or brass tubing. Any ideas on how to cut those down?
Now that I ripped both isolators...I'm going to try this method, and not use the center connector and see how that works out. Problem is I don't have the tools to cut the 1/16 aluminum or brass tubing. Any ideas on how to cut those down?
I use a pair of side cutters or a file and score around the edge of the tubing then work it back and forth until it snaps into.
I personally use a fine tooth hacksaw in a miter box, then sand, or chuck the small piece and sand. I've seen vids of rolling on a table and applying light pressure with a razor blade to cut them, pretty much as a pipe cutter would.
If you are eliminating the center connector and just using the tubing, make sure you a)have a snug fit or b)some sort of 'stop'. I prefer the 'b' option because snug on one atty might not be on another. When I did the one in post 122, I used another tube that was slightly bigger for the stop/contact. If you don't have another tube, you may be able to use the wire from a bread tie. Just wrap it around your tube a couple times and tack with solder. Then cut off the excess wire. That should give good electrical contact and help seal the connection. Note: I haven't actually tried this (yet), but it seems like it should work well.
BTW: I just used a cutting wheel on my dremel to cut the tubing.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but couldn't you just flip the battery and charge it through the atty connector with the ego charger? (you would have to flip the LED also)
Not sure of the polarity on an ego charger, but you may not even have to flip the battery.
**note: Do Not try this unless you have electrical experience and have verified polarity, etc. There could be bad results if you try to put a reverse charge on a Lithium batt. Protected batts will (probably) not 'blow-up', but you may fry the protection circuit. Again, not sure if this is the case or not, but caution must be taken when mixing batteries and chargers not made specifically for said batteries.
Flipping the battery wont work , still going to have a switch blocking the charge. A diode would work but your going to have to get a Schottky type with the lowest forward voltage drop you can find also reverse leakage should be rated really low. The few ego type batteries i have taken apart ( hello016's) use a switching diode aka mosfet to let them charge. Some one posted in one of the threads that he uses a simple blocking diode if i am remembering correctly. Might want have a look around for it here in the modders section.
Something like these might do the trick they are pretty small though. But the data sheet states battery blocking as a primary use.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/NSR1020MW2T1G/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtldOIVIVqa3c7QLoK99q6EAEmgxce9JSk%3d
Something like these might do the trick they are pretty small though. But the data sheet states battery blocking as a primary use.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/NSR1020MW2T1G/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtldOIVIVqa3c7QLoK99q6EAEmgxce9JSk%3d
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I'm thinking about trying a variation of this tut. And I want some input before I do it. I just wanna see if there's maybe anything I'm over looking, or a reason it wouldn't work that I'm not thinking of.
Basically instead of the straight brass tubing going from the bottom of the bottle and feeding the juice from the bottom of the atty/carto, my take on it uses a flexible tubing to go from the bottom of the bottle, out the side of the box and back into a dedicated drip tip to drip the juice on top of an atty. Here's a quick mock-up:
The idea is that it's better the juice drip from above than below (plain ol' gravity) and I'm guessing that with the standard delivery method a little juice gets sucked back into the brass tubing after releasing the bottle, so with juice dripping down onto the atty, that'd be solved. Only thing is it'd be a no carto, atty only kinda thing.
I'm sure if it'd work its been done, so any examples, input, comments?
Thanks
Basically instead of the straight brass tubing going from the bottom of the bottle and feeding the juice from the bottom of the atty/carto, my take on it uses a flexible tubing to go from the bottom of the bottle, out the side of the box and back into a dedicated drip tip to drip the juice on top of an atty. Here's a quick mock-up:
The idea is that it's better the juice drip from above than below (plain ol' gravity) and I'm guessing that with the standard delivery method a little juice gets sucked back into the brass tubing after releasing the bottle, so with juice dripping down onto the atty, that'd be solved. Only thing is it'd be a no carto, atty only kinda thing.
I'm sure if it'd work its been done, so any examples, input, comments?
Thanks
Why a no carto thing? Many folks top drip cartos. A standard carto has a length of resistance wire running through a tube. All the standard bottom feeders do is soak that wire/tube.
I don't claim to be a veteran, but in my few days experience with a WetBox, I'm finding that I prefer using it with an atty. So for the way I use it, this is imo an improvement.
Due to pure $$ and time I've not got a chance to roll through diff ohm carto's and atty's so maybe the atty I through on there just happened to catch that sweet spot for me. Maybe I should go back to the lab testing cart's first.
I'm thinking about trying a variation of this tut. And I want some input before I do it. I just wanna see if there's maybe anything I'm over looking, or a reason it wouldn't work that I'm not thinking of.
Basically instead of the straight brass tubing going from the bottom of the bottle and feeding the juice from the bottom of the atty/carto, my take on it uses a flexible tubing to go from the bottom of the bottle, out the side of the box and back into a dedicated drip tip to drip the juice on top of an atty. Here's a quick mock-up:
The idea is that it's better the juice drip from above than below (plain ol' gravity) and I'm guessing that with the standard delivery method a little juice gets sucked back into the brass tubing after releasing the bottle, so with juice dripping down onto the atty, that'd be solved. Only thing is it'd be a no carto, atty only kinda thing.
I'm sure if it'd work its been done, so any examples, input, comments?
Thanks
With practice this bottom feed is perfect. For me I vape about 4 times squeeze bottle for 2 seconds. Now it is all set for my next vape session 10 minutes later. This overfills the atty but letting it sit for a minute or 2 the excess drains back into bottle.
I am building 4 sets this weekend I am using a oldgoat version now. I plan to change a couple of things.
First I am putting the fire button on top. I think it would be a better location and if you put in shirt pocket less chance of pushing the button in if you forgot to turn it off
Second going to seal the atty center hole and needle going through using the bottle cap instead of the dripper as the dripper is hard to get out for refilling compared to the cap. Without the fire button under bottle should be plenty of room to remove bottle. Seems as though that is the way the op designed his. Mine being unsealed creates a very easy draw with very little leakage. Only reason I want to try the sealed way is with it sealed wont the vape pull the juice up into the atty??
Third make the view holes lower. You want to see juice level when it is lower and squeeze bottle would be easier (if i still need to squeeze bottle.
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