UD AGI RBA vs AGA-T2
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Havent used the AGI but I really enjoy the AGA T2. Was my first (have a RSST now as well) and they are both great vapes. The AGA T2 def feels a bit more solid, and looks slick on a vamo. The RSST is a bit less finnicky though due to the insulated wick hole and different center post style - check it out.
AGA looks better on VAMO for sure. Better than pretty much anything else.
I have all 3: AGA-T2, AGI and RSST. So far my favorite is AGI in dripper mode on my Drawtube mech.
I have all 3: AGA-T2, AGI and RSST. So far my favorite is AGI in dripper mode on my Drawtube mech.
Would you say the AGI is more milkier than the AGA?
I'd like to get the best bang for my buck and also be able to have milky clouds!
Thanks!
Just as with all RBAs, it all depends on your build. Which one you choose does not matter.
The AGI needs to be modified (the hot spring) before you use it for low-ohm coil vaping. If you plan to use it with a non-mech mod, it's probably fine the way it is though.
There also seems to be something about the top cap on the AGI that makes it prone to whistling. It isn't size dependent either. I drilled the original hole out to 1/16" and it still whistled. I decided to just keep widening it until it stopped, going thru all of the incremental sizes between 1/16" and 1/8", and it took going to 1/8" to make it stop, but that is just too wide-open imo, so what I ended up doing was putting a silicone grommet like the ones used in the AGA-T2 in the 1/8" hole, and voila - perfect draw, and no whistling. I'm satisfied with it, but I would prefer to not have to go to such lengths to get it to act the way I want it to. It seems to me like the stainless steel in the top cap is just a bit too thin which makes it act a bit like a bell - the whistling is the exact same pitch as when it is tapped lightly with something metal. YMMV though. lol
BTW, if anyone decides to use the method I used to make the whistling stop, you may have to snip the end of the grommet that is inside the top cap with scissors. I did, though there was probably enough clearance that I didn't really have to, but I didn't want to chance inhaling anything caused by the grommet possibly melting due to being so close to the coil...
There also seems to be something about the top cap on the AGI that makes it prone to whistling. It isn't size dependent either. I drilled the original hole out to 1/16" and it still whistled. I decided to just keep widening it until it stopped, going thru all of the incremental sizes between 1/16" and 1/8", and it took going to 1/8" to make it stop, but that is just too wide-open imo, so what I ended up doing was putting a silicone grommet like the ones used in the AGA-T2 in the 1/8" hole, and voila - perfect draw, and no whistling. I'm satisfied with it, but I would prefer to not have to go to such lengths to get it to act the way I want it to. It seems to me like the stainless steel in the top cap is just a bit too thin which makes it act a bit like a bell - the whistling is the exact same pitch as when it is tapped lightly with something metal. YMMV though. lol
BTW, if anyone decides to use the method I used to make the whistling stop, you may have to snip the end of the grommet that is inside the top cap with scissors. I did, though there was probably enough clearance that I didn't really have to, but I didn't want to chance inhaling anything caused by the grommet possibly melting due to being so close to the coil...
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I have been using an AGA T2 for a few weeks and now it is the only thing I use at home. It is solid and seems to be built well. I haven't ever used a high end RBA but for me this one works well. It took a few tries before I was able to get the vapor I wanted but now it pumps out the vapor like a locomotive. I also like the fact that it has a glass tank. I had one instance of a plastic tank getting some cracks in it.
I have not tested the AGA-T2, the AGI can be a difficult rba for a beginner
when used as a genesis.
the wick hole is on the AGI is smaller about 2.2mm-ish
after a bit of modding mine is now very sweet,
I've drilled out the hole to 3mm, which is not too hard as the wick hole threaded to fit a 3mm screw.
and I've replaced the top part of the center post with a solid threaded rod which now
has a spring and nut similar to the RSST setup.
with a bit of work it can be an excellent genesis, you will at least need to do
something about the center post-spring as this will give the device a big voltage drop
if you drill out the wick hole it will be even better, but then you can't use it as a dripper any more.
it sure looks nice though..
when used as a genesis.
the wick hole is on the AGI is smaller about 2.2mm-ish
after a bit of modding mine is now very sweet,
I've drilled out the hole to 3mm, which is not too hard as the wick hole threaded to fit a 3mm screw.
and I've replaced the top part of the center post with a solid threaded rod which now
has a spring and nut similar to the RSST setup.
with a bit of work it can be an excellent genesis, you will at least need to do
something about the center post-spring as this will give the device a big voltage drop
if you drill out the wick hole it will be even better, but then you can't use it as a dripper any more.
it sure looks nice though..
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hey buddy, just received the agi and plan to use it exclusively as a genny. I also enlarged the wick hole and replaced the springed center post. the only other thing that seems a bit iffy is the length of the allowable coil distance, I was thinking about adding a few small washers to the top of the pp but like your idea of a threaded pp, can you elaborate some on how you did this? thanks
I wanted to replace the whole center post with a long bolt,
but i haven't been able to take out the bottom piece of the center post
and it's quite convenient to screw-open the genny in 2 parts.
so this post is a ss bolt m3(3mm) about 26mm long
at the bottom of the deck i've put an extra rubber washer for some leeway
and a nut to fix the height..
the spring comes from a ballpoint-pen, cut to length (still looking for a cheap ss one)
rest of the parts are stainless steel, mostly 304, the rod is 316 stainless
I will post a pic of the bottom of the deck when my tank is not full
you can pull out the extra dripper post with a pair of pliers,
the hole doesn't go all the way through the deck, you could go for
a u-wick, dual wick setup, but the hole is a bit to close to the other
screw-hole in my oppinion
ps sorry for late reply, i'm moving to a new place
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the washer is 6mm outer diameter,
a bit smaller than standard size.
the topcap of the agi is on the low side,
be carefull not to make the center post touch
the bottom of your driptip
a bit smaller than standard size.
the topcap of the agi is on the low side,
be carefull not to make the center post touch
the bottom of your driptip
here is the bottom of the deck,
not sure where the silicone piece came from,
some clearomizer i think.
it provides a little leeway / springy-ness
to touch the bottom center post
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and the tank bottom.
i cut the center post screw about 1 mm from the bottom
post, so it always connects properly
that spring is still a bit burned from using the agi
as it came originally without modifications
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