Ughh, I'm so confused.

[MsComptrtchr]

Ok, sorry for the distress, but this is my first foray into APVs and VV/VW. I have my eVic w/a 1.8 EVOD. It's reading at 1.9 ohms. OK. Then I set the MVR to Manual (as per HippieAngst.) When I puff, I get 3.0 v. everytime (4.7 W). Is this right? I thought the VV went up and down as needed. Right now I have MVR set to "VV", should it be VW, RVV or RVW instead??

Also, the temp in my 1.3 MVR is set to celsius - can I change it to F? what's a good temp to set it at? I am getting a high temp warning if I puff too often.

Also, what is this "#.#s" showing in my screen everytime I puff - I turned off the puff counter, is it telling me how many seconds I am drawing?

And what do I need to copy to a hex file? Does that automatically open MVR when I plug in the eVic? Right now, I have to open it manually everytime and detect the eVic.

I'm sure I will have more questions tomorrow - the user manual might as well have been written in Chinese.

 

[crxess]

Yes, set to VW will maintain Wattage setting when changing to different coils.

Screen is not going to change settings during vape - no purpose.

You can set Temp alarm to F* and should Raise Temp alarm to 110* or higher

When you vape(in wattage) the screen will show Watts setting and Length of vape in .10 second increments. You can set display time.

You always open MVR first then plug in eVic

MVR 1.2 forward - No HEX files and FIRMWARE is packaged in MVR version.

Be back tomorrow

 

[SuperDave68]

okay some explaining
in VV mode, when you twist the dial ring, you are adjusting the voltage, the wattage will be what ever it is based on coil resistance, in this case 1.9 ohms.
in VW mode, when you twist the dial ring, you are setting the wattage, the device automatically adjusts the voltage to get the wattage setting, at the current coil resistance. ohms law defines this as W=E/I and since I=E/R, you substitute and you get W=E/(E/R) or W=(V x V) / R
if math isn't your strong point you can skip the above just did that to show you how they are all interrelated.
the RVV and RVW modes are basically programable voltage and wattage ramps over time, ie you tell the evic to start at a certain voltage or wattage, and then change to a different setting after a certain amount of time. probably a little advanced for you right now, and i am even sure of the value of this ability.
I think they intended it for a case if you had coil wick setup with a large thermal mass, you could get it up to temp quicker by hitting hard at first then ramping it back down as it came up to temp.

anyway, you are correct about the ##'s showing after a vape, it is the time duration of the vape you just took. with MVR 1.2 you can turn this off if it bugs you, and supposedly it is supposed to help a little with battery conservation. it is called stealth mode in the menu.

the hex file, as i understand it, was needed when upgrading from 1.0 to 1.1 as it wasn't built into MVR yet, the newer versions do this automatically, no need to take a computer programing class to figure out how to use hex dump files

you have to manually start MVR, it will not start automatically when you plug in the evic, also if you ever have connection issues, i did, make sure you run MVR as administrator, this solved my detection issues in MVR.

 

[MsComptrtchr]

Thank you both - making more sense to me . . . going mee mees now (sleep.) Back tomorrow, same bat channel.

 

[lamarrk]

Set it to VW and run it around 8 watts. Adjust to taste from that point, up or down. Easier than changing the voltage everytime you change tanks/cleros with a different Ω coil. That's what I've done and works great. Even set my wife's Vamo to do the same.

 

[MsComptrtchr]

Another question . . . so when it says "Atomizer not found" on an EVOD and I have already messed with the tightness/looseness of the clearo, is it a popped coil/dead head?

 

[dwolf111]

Another question . . . so when it says "Atomizer not found" on an EVOD and I have already messed with the tightness/looseness of the clearo, is it a popped coil/dead head?

Or the coil/head came loose. I had the coil/head come loose in my vision vivi nova once that caused the same problem.

 

[LazyBulldogge]

Or the positive pin (the center pin in the atomizer head) is not touching the battery connector - if that's the case, carefully pull the center pin on the atomizer just a little bit out.

 

[MsComptrtchr]

I replaced the head - good to go. ::dropping the old head in my "rebuild me" baggie::

 

[EddardinWinter]

The evod pin is threaded. Just unscrew it a bit, and it will be fine.

 

[tmoore]

The evod pin is threaded. Just unscrew it a bit, and it will be fine.

None of mine are.

 

[crxess]

The evod pin is threaded. Just unscrew it a bit, and it will be fine.

Interesting - confusing and wrong, but interesting.

Evod uses the same press in pin design as the T3/T3-mini/MT3 and now ProTank