curious about unoxidized wicks, would like to hear if you oxidize or do not. especially if you use to oxidize and now you dont and how you like it. or if any have tried it and have comments about it. thanks.
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I don't oxidize my wicks anymore....I only lightly torch them to get rid of any manufacturing residue. Using an un-oxidized wick forces you to make the perfect set up....and the taste of the perfect set up is far superior. With the perfect set up you can easily remove gunk and maintain your set up very easily...slide your wick out and glow your coil........lightly torch the wick .... slide the wick back in and it is like a new set up. My Petar K set ups are far more stable than my setups using the conventional way of wrapping coils or other drill bit methods with oxidized wicks..
I know you like to make your wicks like tree trunks....so you can't really do it the way he shows in the video....but it can be done with the principals he is teaching.
I know you like to make your wicks like tree trunks....so you can't really do it the way he shows in the video....but it can be done with the principals he is teaching.
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same..... i just torch them a bit after rolling, even then i started just doing the top half where the coil and body touch. and with a drillbit type of coil the wick is easily pulled for cleaning. seems the taste is fine plus tank stays clean(er) longer.
I do you oxidized wicks with the drill bit or rolling paper method. I soon won't have to worry about such things, b/c I hope to have success with ceramic wicks. Ceramic doesn't oxidize or need to be since it doesn't conduct electricity.
i was looking into this but waiting for more feedback and a regular supplier of sorts. want to see how it goes befor just jumpimg in.
I've been going to try not oxidizing, next time I have to rebuild one of my RBAs.
Hi all, a question about unoxidised mesh wicks
watched the Petar K video and explanations, but I still don't get how that can work... I saw that the wick should be free to slide into the coils, so it's not fully in contact with them I guess, but how is it possible that it actually doesn't touch - and hence short - them, at least partially? I'm sure there's a simple explanation, but I'm not finding it...
and while we're at this, any links to share about the ceramic wicks?
thanks
watched the Petar K video and explanations, but I still don't get how that can work... I saw that the wick should be free to slide into the coils, so it's not fully in contact with them I guess, but how is it possible that it actually doesn't touch - and hence short - them, at least partially? I'm sure there's a simple explanation, but I'm not finding it...
and while we're at this, any links to share about the ceramic wicks?
thanks
Marking. I'm very interested in this as I am just getting into rebuildable attys.
Here's the thread about ceramic wicks and there's also a co-op going on if you want to buy pre-cast ones. I'm not sure if they will be able to ship to Italy, but you can ask.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/362182-next-big-thing-porous-ceramic-wicks.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/362182-next-big-thing-porous-ceramic-wicks.html
Hi all, a question about unoxidised mesh wicks
watched the Petar K video and explanations, but I still don't get how that can work... I saw that the wick should be free to slide into the coils, so it's not fully in contact with them I guess, but how is it possible that it actually doesn't touch - and hence short - them, at least partially? I'm sure there's a simple explanation, but I'm not finding it...
and while we're at this, any links to share about the ceramic wicks?
thanks
so it seems like you have good success with this. i would like to try it because oxidizing a wick is quite a pain in the ..... i do spend alot of time oxidizing wicks. i quess you can say at this point i do half of this method, because i do wrap around an object first, then install wick into the coil so i am able to remove and clean. so being succesful at using an unoxidized wick, you cannot use a really solid wick?
I have made 55 mm wicks that work well....using 30awg wire wrapped 5 times. I have never tried to do the monster wicks like you do...the over the 100mm wick...with 28awg wire...but i think it would be the same principle. I don't see why it wouldn't work. Make the perfect compact coil and a perfectly cylindrical wick to fit inside it...it should work. It will be little more of a challenge compared to some on who uses a flexible straw like wick.
IF you have problems let me know...I have some tricks that work with solid wicks. Since Petar doesn't do wicks that use more than 20mm mesh and he makes all his wicks straw like....I don't know if he could help you.
IF you have problems let me know...I have some tricks that work with solid wicks. Since Petar doesn't do wicks that use more than 20mm mesh and he makes all his wicks straw like....I don't know if he could help you.
will give it a go next time i re-do my set-up. if i can get the device to work, like it works now without spending 20 extra minutes of oxidation that would be great. but if its a trade off , of either not oxidizing but having to use gravitational wicking vs oxidizing, but having capillary wicking, im not to sure. i just really like the way the solid wick , works compared to a sort of flimpsy hollow wick. its another challenge, will let you know how it turns out with the solid ,semi solid un-oxidized wick.
I take a bic lighter to my mesh before and after rolling until it turns brown.
easy/fun and it seems to work well. It feels like a hobbyist thing to do...
Which, I sort of LIKE believe it or not, sitting at a desk with my wicks and lighter.
So, I'm going to keep doing it.
easy/fun and it seems to work well. It feels like a hobbyist thing to do...
Which, I sort of LIKE believe it or not, sitting at a desk with my wicks and lighter.
So, I'm going to keep doing it.
Without oxidizing you probably won't be able to use as much mesh as you usually do. But you don't need to make it hollow either. Just roll it tight....it just won't be super tight/stiff. It might be my imagination but unoxidized mesh wicks pretty damn well....so maybe you won't see much difference as far as wicking goes. With less mesh, the vape should be warmer as well...less heat sink effect. You might be pleasantly surprised.
nope it seems this way for sure. very rarely do i have to keep the atty tilted to keep it wicking, as long as the wick in the jar stays wet it seems to wick like crazy and i can chain away without having to tilt to soak the coil.
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It seems like an unoxidized wick would actually have a much better capillary action going on since it's not gunked up with the slight residue oxidizing builds up. Hmmm. I've been wanting to try this actually.
makes sense, and wont have to spend the money on butane, and your mesh would last alot longer. and maybe the heat sink wont drain the batterys as quickly.
Gotta agree here with Thrasher, EDO, and others. I dont oxidize my wicks any more. Petar K with a solid mesh wick works best. Between the Petar K thread and the EDO thread, they pretty much cover the technique and optimization.
Just as a side note, based upon some postings in the #500 Mesh thread, people are reporting that less than maximal solid ss material is working better. For example there is a great resource call PV Apps by Tomcatt. PV Web Apps. At the bottom of the page there is a calculator that can tell you how much mesh you need to roll a solid wick. After you input your variables for wick hole size, etc, it will give you the maximum theoretical length of rolled mesh that will fill a hole.
Based upon the results reported and my own experience, if you calculate for the size of the atty wick hole and use only 50% of the material indicated, you will obtain the best result. So if your wick hole is 2.5mm, you will calculate 98mm of mesh. You then use only 44mm but you roll your wick to ~2.2mm, so that you have 1-2mm of space between your wick and wick hole. You do not roll you mesh ultra tight. The extra space between layers of mesh add space for capillary flow to occur. Essentially, you are creating a space between layers equal in size to the pores in the mesh.
Didn't mean to go OT here, but I have been meaning to make a post on this and share the data.
Just as a side note, based upon some postings in the #500 Mesh thread, people are reporting that less than maximal solid ss material is working better. For example there is a great resource call PV Apps by Tomcatt. PV Web Apps. At the bottom of the page there is a calculator that can tell you how much mesh you need to roll a solid wick. After you input your variables for wick hole size, etc, it will give you the maximum theoretical length of rolled mesh that will fill a hole.
Based upon the results reported and my own experience, if you calculate for the size of the atty wick hole and use only 50% of the material indicated, you will obtain the best result. So if your wick hole is 2.5mm, you will calculate 98mm of mesh. You then use only 44mm but you roll your wick to ~2.2mm, so that you have 1-2mm of space between your wick and wick hole. You do not roll you mesh ultra tight. The extra space between layers of mesh add space for capillary flow to occur. Essentially, you are creating a space between layers equal in size to the pores in the mesh.
Didn't mean to go OT here, but I have been meaning to make a post on this and share the data.
I missed 2 weeks of threads here on the RBA forum, and I'm already way behind in my techniques...looks like being a "coil-whisperer" isn't necessary anymore, hahaha.
I'll get on with an unoxidized setup tomorrow and see how it works- looks very promising, although I might have to wrap looser than usual...which will affect how my Boba's wicks... ah well.
I'll get on with an unoxidized setup tomorrow and see how it works- looks very promising, although I might have to wrap looser than usual...which will affect how my Boba's wicks... ah well.
Gdeal....very informative post. Unlike some... I think you should use the least amount of mesh that you can... as long as you never get dry hits and your juices don't get a lot darker. If I can vape perfectly using 40mm of mesh ...why should I use 50mm? It doesn't make sense. That calculator is an excellent guide and starting point... but If someone vapes 100% PG juices and naturally tilts his device when vaping...it doesn't make sense for him to use even the optimal amount of mesh...if they can vape perfectly with less.
Vapdivrr...With the Petar K method you will use less watts...since not only you will use less mesh but there are two other factors...1)you also have to make the wick very loosely fit in the coil for it to work. The less the contact, the more efficiently the coil works. 2) He sets all the wraps in a 3-4mm area. I have been vaping 7-8 watt range lately with better performance than when I was vaping in the 10 watt range.
Vapdivrr...With the Petar K method you will use less watts...since not only you will use less mesh but there are two other factors...1)you also have to make the wick very loosely fit in the coil for it to work. The less the contact, the more efficiently the coil works. 2) He sets all the wraps in a 3-4mm area. I have been vaping 7-8 watt range lately with better performance than when I was vaping in the 10 watt range.
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