un-oxidized wicks?

[vapdivrr]

I don't believe you did the technique the correct way. The drill bit is needed to form a perfect coil. Then you roll mesh to fit the coil with very a minimal to no pressure fit.

I posted here on replicating Petar K method. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...hot-spot-free-cleanable-coil.html#post8150824

I prefer "solid" mesh which I replaced for the hollow one in the post. I get no hot spots. Maybe a minor short, but with a dap of juice or a slight twist of the wick, they resolve themselves very quickly.

I do slightly torch the mesh unrolled, to remove any residual oils after cleaning the mesh with some dish detergent, so there probable is some minimal oxidation occuring. I also use a Provari and have no trouble at all

It takes about the same time as the regular technique and what is nice here is that I can clean my wick daily in about 30 seconds. Twist remove, torch, fire the coils then pop the wick back in and vape....

alot of responses to the benefits of using an un-oxidized wick is that you can slide the wick back out to clean. i think that this should be omitted as a benefit, because i believe that most people use the drill bit method anyways, they are just oxidizing their wicks instead of not oxidizing them. so if you do not oxidize them, give the benefits besides the slide in, slide out benefit. edo has listed some, the question is are those benefits noticable?

 

[gdeal]

alot of responses to the benefits of using an un-oxidized wick is that you can slide the wick back out to clean. i think that this should be omitted as a benefit, because i believe that most people use the drill bit method anyways, they are just oxidizing their wicks instead of not oxidizing them. so if you do not oxidize them, give the benefits besides the slide in, slide out benefit. edo has listed some, the question is are those benefits noticable?

Yup..right you are. I was OT. Just trying to help out V Ninja.

 

[vapdivrr]

i had started this thread to find out some info on un-oxidized wicks. after reading some of the information and watching some of the videos, i decided to give it a go. the issues with it is, at least for me is another learning curve. it has taking me months to have a fool proof way of building these devices. my coils and wicks turn out very stable, great flavor, and great vapor. but being able to get a more efficient way of this was interesting, for about 2 hours. well i guess to be fair its going to take alot more than 2 hours to master this new technic. i think that even if i did succesfully get this un-oxidized wick to work, the benefits would not be that noticable. imo, if you are just getting going on these gennys its probably worth trying, but if your like me and have it down to a T, whats the sense, next month theres going to be something else will i try that? i really believe that there will be another wick material soon, that will replace the stainless. so in the meantime i am happy.

 

[Thrasher]

I would say stick with what works for you, i wouldnt try to master it to move on but as more of a I would like to try it also.

all i know is after days of playing and trying i will be depressed when this wick wears out if i cant replicate the results. so far the one im on now is awesome.

 

[fraghole]

Can someone post the link to the peter k method? I can't seem to find it on YouTube. I have just found others trying the method themselves posted.

Thanks

 

[Thrasher]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-forthe-edo-peter-k-no-oxidation-threads.html

these?

 

[j4mmin42]

i had started this thread to find out some info on un-oxidized wicks. after reading some of the information and watching some of the videos, i decided to give it a go. the issues with it is, at least for me is another learning curve. it has taking me months to have a fool proof way of building these devices. my coils and wicks turn out very stable, great flavor, and great vapor. but being able to get a more efficient way of this was interesting, for about 2 hours. well i guess to be fair its going to take alot more than 2 hours to master this new technic. i think that even if i did succesfully get this un-oxidized wick to work, the benefits would not be that noticable. imo, if you are just getting going on these gennys its probably worth trying, but if your like me and have it down to a T, whats the sense, next month theres going to be something else will i try that? i really believe that there will be another wick material soon, that will replace the stainless. so in the meantime i am happy.

This is exactly how I feel about it. I'll try it again , now that I know a bit more about what not to do, lol. The one that's already set up is going well, it just needs to be tipped every once in awhile to keep the coils wet. I'm going to keep the setup and break it in, and I think when some juice starts building up between the coil and the wick, it might keep getting better.

At this point, though, I think I'm a bit set in my ways, until ceramic wicks start becoming more common

 

[EDO]

Wow it is so interesting how people do the same method and get such different results. I just never even think of hot spots anymore or shorts when I set up a coil. I just don't get them with the Petar K method. The last ten or more builds I have done on my vamo or lava tube....maybe I got one low ohm message when setting up. There could be a few factors...1) If you make your wick so thick that it is touching the walls of the wick hole 2)500 mesh is supposedly a pain when it comes to shorts (I haven't used it) 3) you didn't follow his method correctly.

His method is basically if you have a perfect coil and you fit a nice cylindrical wick inside it in a loose fashion...you won't get shorts even if the wick is unoxidized. It doesn't mean it won't work if you oxidized the wick. If you glow the top portion of your wick red for 15 seconds with a torch only once, that is more than enough....and the first two factors I mentioned above shouldn't come into play. now the third...

If anyone reading this wants to try it again or do it for the first time....With solid wicks....i just do everything Petar does except I make the wick fit even more loosely than he does. If I sneeze too loud the wick will drop in ( I always make my wick long enough so if it does drop...I can easily retrieve it). After I check the ohms I fill the tank...I do 5 ten second burns. The crud/gunk that builds on the coil will hold the wick in place in the right fashion. There is no break in time...your first vape should be excellent. If you get any low ohm error messages...you probably didn't have the fit of the wick loose enough.

The advantages to his method is that you can vape at lower wattages ( your batteries will thank you) and the taste is a lot better with his method.

Even If you don't want to try any of this...make you coils more compact when making you next build...it concentrates the heat to one area and the vape is warmer at lower wattages.

 

[j4mmin42]

Even If you don't want to try any of this...make you coils more compact when making you next build...it concentrates the heat to one area and the vape is warmer at lower wattages.

This is also why I use 28 kanthal- it forces you to make more wraps, more densely, and the heated surface area increases dramatically...

 

[fraghole]

Wow it is so interesting how people do the same method and get such different results. I just never even think of hot spots anymore or shorts when I set up a coil. I just don't get them with the Petar K method. The last ten or more builds I have done on my vamo or lava tube....maybe I got one low ohm message when setting up. There could be a few factors...1) If you make your wick so thick that it is touching the walls of the wick hole 2)500 mesh is supposedly a pain when it comes to shorts (I haven't used it) 3) you didn't follow his method correctly.

His method is basically if you have a perfect coil and you fit a nice cylindrical wick inside it in a loose fashion...you won't get shorts even if the wick is unoxidized. It doesn't mean it won't work if you oxidized the wick. If you glow the top portion of your wick red for 15 seconds with a torch only once, that is more than enough....and the first two factors I mentioned above shouldn't come into play. now the third...

If anyone reading this wants to try it again or do it for the first time....With solid wicks....i just do everything Petar does except I make the wick fit even more loosely than he does. If I sneeze too loud the wick will drop in ( I always make my wick long enough so if it does drop...I can easily retrieve it). After I check the ohms I fill the tank...I do 5 ten second burns. The crud/gunk that builds on the coil will hold the wick in place in the right fashion. There is no break in time...your first vape should be excellent. If you get any low ohm error messages...you probably didn't have the fit of the wick loose enough.

The advantages to his method is that you can vape at lower wattages ( your batteries will thank you) and the taste is a lot better with his method.

Even If you don't want to try any of this...make you coils more compact when making you next build...it concentrates the heat to one area and the vape is warmer at lower wattages.

Due you suffer any leeching (juice darkening in the tank) with this method. I know everyone is probably tired of hearing me go on about this, but I have given up on straight wicks completely at the moment because of this.

 

[gdeal]

Wow it is so interesting how people do the same method and get such different results. I just never even think of hot spots anymore or shorts when I set up a coil. I just don't get them with the Petar K method. The last ten or more builds I have done on my vamo or lava tube....maybe I got one low ohm message when setting up.

I think you make the most compelling case for not oxidizing your wick. The benefit is that once you are familiar with the subtleties of how to do it, you dont get hung up on hot spots or shorts and you are up and running in minutes. There is no wondering if you under oxidized or over oxidized. Like anything with gennies ya gotta study what people are doing and what works. And once you try and get enough practice, you can nail it. Since I dont want to sound like I am talking out of my ..... I put this to the test. I just broke down a perfectly good coil/wick. I re-wrapped a kanthal ribbon coil for 1.3 ohms, rolled a brand new unoxidized mesh wick and fired away. I had a minor hot spot at the top coil and got rid of it in two pulses. I can vape it at max wattage.

Here a pic of the set-up. I only put the unrolled mesh in a flame from the stove for a second or two to remove any residual oils and then wrapped it. From the color you can see that it really never was expose to high heat. This set up vapes great right out of the gate.

Un-fired wick set up:



First pulse after resolving hot spot:

 

[vapdivrr]

I think you make the most compelling case for not oxidizing your wick. The benefit is that once you are familiar with the subtleties of how to do it, you dont get hung up on hot spots or shorts and you are up and running in minutes. There is no wondering if you under oxidized or over oxidized. Like anything with gennies ya gotta study what people are doing and what works. And once you try and get enough practice, you can nail it. Since I dont want to sound like I am talking out of my ..... I put this to the test. I just broke down a perfectly good coil/wick. I re-wrapped a kanthal ribbon coil for 1.3 ohms, rolled a brand new unoxidized mesh wick and fired away. I had a minor hot spot at the top coil and got rid of it in two pulses. I can vape it at max wattage.

Here a pic of the set-up. I only put the unrolled mesh in a flame from the stove for a second or two to remove any residual oils and then wrapped it. From the color you can see that it really never was expose to high heat. This set up vapes great right out of the gate.

Un-fired wick set up:



First pulse after resolving hot spot:

looks like a very solid wick? have you not changed your dimentions of your mesh from before? i have been using 500 rolled super tight, so when i was messing around with the un-ox wick set-up, i also changed my mesh lenghts and density, thinking that this was one of the prerequesits(i dont think i spelled that right). or did you keep everything the same but only use an unoxidized wick?

 

[vapdivrr]

Due you suffer any leeching (juice darkening in the tank) with this method. I know everyone is probably tired of hearing me go on about this, but I have given up on straight wicks completely at the moment because of this.

i have heard you talk about juice leeching before, i use a straight wick and can hardly notice any juice darkening, if at all. i think it might have to do with how a wick is rolled. if you roll a sort of loose wick, or a wick with a bigger center hole the juice might leech back into the tank. maybe i dont see much of this because of the way i do my wicks. they are so solid that none of the juice can return back down from it.

 

[EDO]

This is also why I use 28 kanthal- it forces you to make more wraps, more densely, and the heated surface area increases dramatically...

Well it does depend on the PV... doesn't it? I mean you could get away with the 28g wire on the Provari v2 and definitely on mechanical mods. But lets say you have Vamo or Lava tube or Provari v1....and you are using a DUD. You would have to make your coils at least 1.6ohms. On a DUD that would be 4 wraps with the 32g and about 10 wraps with the 28g. The 28g coil would be super unresponsive....the 32g coil would run circles around it. They should theoretically perform the same since they are the same ohms....but once you insert the wick...you will have heat sink effect. Since you used so much more wire to create the 28g coil...it will be in contact more with the wick....and the heat sink effect will make it relatively unresponsive. I only use lower gauge wires if I want a mellower vape.

 

[gdeal]

looks like a very solid wick? have you not changed your dimentions of your mesh from before? i have been using 500 rolled super tight, so when i was messing around with the un-ox wick set-up, i also changed my mesh lenghts and density, thinking that this was one of the prerequesits(i dont think i spelled that right). or did you keep everything the same but only use an unoxidized wick?

Its fairly solid. I used 40mm of #200 and 40mm of #500 around the #200. The wick hole is 2.5mm; I rolled for a solid mesh targeting 2.2mm (based upon PV Web Apps) and then loosened the mesh to fit the coil which was formed on a 2.5mm "drill bit"

I got the #200 mesh as a freebee from the mesh company with the #500. It has 60% open porosity and .028mm wire thickness (vs .025mm for #500). It was sitting around so I thought why not try it here...

 

[EDO]

Due you suffer any leeching (juice darkening in the tank) with this method. I know everyone is probably tired of hearing me go on about this, but I have given up on straight wicks completely at the moment because of this.

i have heard you talk about juice leeching before, i use a straight wick and can hardly notice any juice darkening, if at all. i think it might have to do with how a wick is rolled. if you roll a sort of loose wick, or a wick with a bigger center hole the juice might leech back into the tank. maybe i dont see much of this because of the way i do my wicks. they are so solid that none of the juice can return back down from it.

I totally agree with Vapdivrr...the only thing I could add is that some juices do just get darker..period. Most of my juices don't get darker hardly at all but I have one that gets 50 shades darker even with a solid wick. With straw like wick all my juices get darker.

 

[vapdivrr]

Its fairly solid. I used 40mm of #200 and 40mm of #500 around the #200. The wick hole is 2.5mm; I rolled for a solid mesh targeting 2.2mm (based upon PV Web Apps) and then loosened the mesh to fit the coil which was formed on a 2.5mm "drill bit"

I got the #200 mesh as a freebee from the mesh company with the #500. It has 60% open porosity and .028mm wire thickness (vs .025mm for #500). It was sitting around so I thought why not try it here...

thats pretty cool/ 2 meshes. so is this the first time you have tried the un-ox method? if so do you notice any real differences besides the time saved by not ox. or is it to soon to tell.

 

[vapdivrr]

mr edo, if i do try this again, one question. when i coiled my drill bit, very compactly, i noticed that the distance from the deck upwards was alot less than my usual set-up. so my top coil attachment was lower than my top nut( where i usaully attach the top coil) in my recent attempt, i then spaced out the coil slightly to make up the difference. is this where it may of failed? or should i configure my center post nuts so i can attach at a lower level?

 

[fraghole]

I totally agree with Vapdivrr...the only thing I could add is that some juices do just get darker..period. Most of my juices don't get darker hardly at all but I have one that gets 50 shades darker even with a solid wick. With straw like wick all my juices get darker.

In this case, from what you guys are saying, it has to be my wicks. I am using TV Butter Rum. Its very light in color, and very clear. When I use a straight, it turns very very dark less than half way through the tank, but with the uwick no darkening at all, stays clear and light all the way to the bottom.

The reason I am so up in the air over this, is because if I ever get an atty that's not uwick capable, I will be driven mad by this.

I'm totally hooked, and in to this stuff already. I know I will be getting more mods and atty's etc. I just wished I would've found out about all of this stuff sooner. Most of the cool gen atty's (like the hellfire), and mods are all gone and nearly impossible to get now. Oh well.

Thanks for all the help on this guys. Just ignore any other threads I may have started pertaining to this issue. I will shut up about it now. I hope! I really appreciate your help.

 

[vapdivrr]

In this case, from what you guys are saying, it has to be my wicks. I am using TV Butter Rum. Its very light in color, and very clear. When I use a straight, it turns very very dark less than half way through the tank, but with the uwick no darkening at all, stays clear and light all the way to the bottom.

The reason I am so up in the air over this, is because if I ever get an atty that's not uwick capable, I will be driven mad by this.

I'm totally hooked, and in to this stuff already. I know I will be getting more mods and atty's etc. I just wished I would've found out about all of this stuff sooner. Most of the cool gen atty's (like the hellfire), and mods are all gone and nearly impossible to get now. Oh well.

Thanks for all the help on this guys. Just ignore any other threads I may have started pertaining to this issue. I will shut up about it now. I hope! I really appreciate your help.

try it with a solid wick, cant hurt and is easier to do then a u-wick. it might not work at all, it might just be the juice in this particular device.