Uniform firmware for many devices - ArcticFox + NFirmwareEditor

[jersey_emt]

While the configuration tool is very convenient, as a matter of principle I use ClockSelect's myEvic firmware instead of ArcticFox. ArcticFox is a fork of the open-source myEvic, which means that under the terms of the license (GNU GPL v3.0), ArcticFox must also be open source. But the developer refuses to release the source code.

The feature set is mostly identical in both firmwares. There are a few things that one does but the other does not, but the core functionality is pretty equivalent.

 

[Dreamject]

MyEvic is good to, but i can not test it, it is not for device with small screen like pico

 

[Joergl100]

I think it's especially for eVics...Cuboid has a big display and MyEvic doesn't work with that also.

Edit: As i have noticed now, with the according firmware it may work...

Curious now...

 

[jersey_emt]

I think it's especially for eVics...Cuboid has a big display and MyEvic doesn't work with that also.

Edit: As i have noticed now, with the according firmware it may work...

Curious now...

MyEvic works on a wide range of joyetech and Wismec devices:

• Joyetech
  • eVic VTC Mini
  • eVic VTC Dual
  • eVic VTwo Mini
  • eVic VTwo
  • eVic AIO
  • eVic Basic
  • eGrip II / Light
  • Cuboid
  • Cuboid Mini
  • Cuboid 200
• Wismec
  • Presa TC75W
  • Presa TC100W
  • Reuleaux RX75
  • Reuleaux RX200S
  • Reuleaux RX2/3
  • Reuleaux RXmini
  • Reuleaux RX300
• Others
  • Vaponaute La Petite Box

Support for the Wismec Predator and Joyetech Primo should be added soon, as they use the same chipset and screen as all of the others.

 

[jersey_emt]

MyEvic is good to, but i can not test it, it is not for device with small screen like pico

Yeah, you don't really have a choice since only ArcticFox supports the small-screen Wismec/Joyetech devices. But I'm on a Cuboid so I can use myEvic.

 

[nick779]

So, would anyone be able to walk me through a basic TC setup for 316L?

I set a new profile up with TC set for 25W, no preheat, [TFR] 316L @ 375F degrees to start, default TCR ramp, default PI controller setup (disabled, 0%, 1850, 300), Temperature dominant.

Not sure what else I need to do.

 

[Plettschner]

While the configuration tool is very convenient, as a matter of principle I use ClockSelect's myEvic firmware instead of ArcticFox. ArcticFox is a fork of the open-source myEvic, which means that under the terms of the license (GNU GPL v3.0), ArcticFox must also be open source. But the developer refuses to release the source code.

The feature set is mostly identical in both firmwares. There are a few things that one does but the other does not, but the core functionality is pretty equivalent.

This bothers me as well... he needs to maintain the open source GPL and make the source available.

Unfortunately, I have a Pico and need the small screen support.

I love the firmware, but can't recommend it based on this GPL violation.


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[Plettschner]

So, would anyone be able to walk me through a basic TC setup for 316L?

I set a new profile up with TC set for 25W, no preheat, [TFR] 316L @ 375F degrees to start, default TCR ramp, default PI controller setup (disabled, 0%, 1850, 300), Temperature dominant.

Not sure what else I need to do.

Seems like a good start. I would add a little preheat though. I like to use relative, 200-220%, .4 seconds just to give the heat a little whack. I'm using 28ga coils though. YMMV.


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[93gc40]

So, would anyone be able to walk me through a basic TC setup for 316L?

I set a new profile up with TC set for 25W, no preheat, [TFR] 316L @ 375F degrees to start, default TCR ramp, default PI controller setup (disabled, 0%, 1850, 300), Temperature dominant.

Not sure what else I need to do.

Start with the default. TC or TFR...... if it won't reach temp and inst too hot increase wattage....... if it too hot try reducing temp first.....

Don't worry about the preheat or pid till you figure out watts and temp.....preheat not needed for TC. Is great feature for VW though. PID.... I Don't think does anything on my pico.



Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[nick779]

Start with the default. TC or TFR...... if it won't reach temp and inst too hot increase wattage....... if it too hot try reducing temp first.....

Don't worry about the preheat or pid till you figure out watts and temp.....preheat not needed for TC. Is great feature for VW though. PID.... I Don't think does anything on my pico.



Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

looking at my evic and pico in real time, the live resistance fluctuates by .03ohm constantly, will that impact the TC much?

 

[93gc40]

looking at my evic and pico in real time, the live resistance fluctuates by .03ohm constantly, will that impact the TC much?

No...... not if you lock ohm and shut TCR check OFF. At least for pico.....

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[nick779]

No...... not if you lock ohm and shut TCR check OFF. At least for pico.....

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Ill give it a go then.

Edit:

Getting a TCR Error after ~.75 seconds using [TFR] 316L profile, gonna try the TCR method with 92

Edit Edit: Missed turning off TCR check, gonna try the profile again.
Although wouldnt locking the resistance cause issue with measuring the temp? or is that just so it doesnt ask if you changed the atty every time?

I feel bad for asking so many questions, but im having trouble finding explanations of options that have no tooltips.

 

[Dreamject]

Seems like a good start. I would add a little preheat though. I like to use relative, 200-220%, .4 seconds just to give the heat a little whack. I'm using 28ga coils though. YMMV.

It's does not give real 220% of preheat, when your coil will heat to target tempeature, expect you don't make force preheat.

Getting a TCR Error after ~.75 seconds using [TFR] 316L profile, gonna try the TCR method with 92

Edit Edit: Missed turning off TCR check, gonna try the profile again.
Although wouldnt locking the resistance cause issue with measuring the temp? or is that just so it doesnt ask if you changed the atty every time?

Drop TCR check, life will be easier)

You don't must lock resistance, it's locked alredy until you change or rescrew your atomizer.

Best way to refresh coil resistance is edit screen-select resistance (does not work with real resistance )-long press fire when your coil is cooled down (i can draw in the air through for better cooling)-finish

About TCR/TFR. As I know, coil temperature is not absolutely same on different part of coil and resistance checker has error range. It means it's not too much sense to find "correct TCR" and especially TFR, just set near or smaller TCR (less is more sensitive - I use 70 on SS) and find logical temperature by your taste. In this way TC is still much more safer and quicker heat you coil than WW, but it removes your headache.

 

[93gc40]

Although wouldnt locking the resistance cause issue with measuring the temp?

I feel bad for asking so many questions, but im having trouble finding explanations of options that have no tooltips.

Locking the ohm give the mod a consistent starting point for the regulation........

Good thing is this forum is here to answer even stupid questions.... another is with a regulated mod as long as you don't exceed the limits of the batteries.. you won't hurt anything. The mod just won't fire. So get the basics down then experiment with the rest. You can always re flash the mods FW and start over.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[nick779]

Locking the ohm give the mod a consistent starting point for the regulation........

Good thing is this forum is here to answer even stupid questions.... another is with a regulated mod as long as you don't exceed the limits of the batteries.. you won't hurt anything. The mod just won't fire. So get the basics down then experiment with the rest. You can always re flash the mods FW and start over.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Im a dumbass, for some reason I had it in my head the my Smok Spirals attys were 316L, but in fact no material is listed. No wonder why its not working, probably just kanthal.

 

[Dreamject]

Im a dumbass, for some reason I had it in my head the my Smok Spirals attys were 316L, but in fact no material is listed. No wonder why its not working, probably just kanthal.

For better view you could connect device to PC

Start NFE monitoring.
See on live resistance.
Hold fire.
If live resistance (pink) stable increase - you could get TC anyway.
If it's stable or even reduces (i have this bug on Kanthal) - you can not get TC on this material-atomizer configuration
It you see some strange - most probably you set up your coils wrong

 

[nick779]

For better view you could connect device to PC

Start NFE monitoring.
See on live resistance.
Hold fire.
If live resistance (pink) stable increase - you could get TC anyway.
If it's stable or even reduces (i have this bug on Kanthal) - you can not get TC on this material-atomizer configuration
It you see some strange - most probably you set up your coils wrong

I did some research and theyre straight kanthal, resistance changes barely at all when firing. my MTL tank uses actual 316l ss coils though, which seem to work fine.

 

[Dreamject]

SS changes it's resistance about +10%/+100 C
On default scale it looks like

On 5% scale like

 

[FLICK]

.

 

[nick779]

So, I had some time to tinker with TC and I just cant get it to hit like VW.

Using a .6 316L SS Pockex coil in my Nautilus X, normally I vape 125% .3 preheat, 19.5w.

Tried TC in TFR 316 and TCR (92) modes @ 25w, and even when set to 600* it barely gives any flavor/heat compared to VW. Resistance is locked at .635 which is about the median of the live resistance when cold.

Device monitor shows that the device hits target temp every time, but the device screen constantly flashes protection when in this mode when "at" temp.

Do the coils have to be explicitly listed as a TC coil, or should any 316L SS coil work?