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"Temp protection" flash is normal.. it means the device is regulating.. but i feelyou....
Describe you build... IDK coil by brand...
I am finding TC works best with single wire plain builds. Could just be I haven't hit on a good multi wire build. I also have not been able to have TC setting work for 2 builds in a row.. even with same wire. Maybe it the SS wire IDK.
That OK because VW with custom power output profile works just fine. Getting the heat profile I want work fine in VW. Until I figure out how to use TC consistantly....
The only advantage I see with TC is it might save a little on battery usage
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You could still use preheat, seconds, watts etc on TC.
And you can inhave more/less quicker and dont change settings
My experience is i can set it and forget it in VW.... TC I spend the whole day dialing it in. I hit on a setting around bedtime... only to have to start over adjusting in the morning. I've had the same VW settings aside from bumping the wattage a few watts up or down at build time for about 2 months. Doing different SS builds every 3 to 5 days.
It's easier to get a consistent vape off a mech than with TC.
It could be my mod a Pico75.....it could be my wire using 30 and 28 316L. Tried Ni and Ti prebuilt no joy. I don't think it's the FW as TC is no better With Eleaf FW. Heat curve adjustability alone make the AF fw a keeper.
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What is your target? A lot of vapers who just woke up and started think about safety very serious seriosly want to get correct temperature and find and dance with TCR/TFR/curves/resistance about 0.00x and want correct vaping on 200 C. In my experience, it could be 150 C, 250 C, now my T is 150. Really, just taste combination is enough. You could set TCR to 70, it makes it more sensitive and try to find your value
I don't see what the beef is a few of you have with TC on SS. Jam the temp up to 600F, dial in your wattage, see where temp is hitting, bring TC down to there, avoid dry hits.
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But that shouldnt matter with TC. It should still have 25W to get it to temp which is above my preheat wattage. It still doesnt vape right. I get vapor, but its a very very cold vape even at 600F
Im running the Pockex .6 316L SS coils
Then increase your TCR to 120 fox example and try again, but I think you have problem with start resistance
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I use preheat with TC, but I dial my wattage down to below where it hits TC until about the end of the puff. The preheat gives it a quick bump to get to temp a little quicker.
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That does, but only if combination of preheat/wattage dont be more than target temp
Can you give screenshot of device monitor in AF how your vaping works?
So I shouldnt be using the 92 that is for 316SS?
Ive also tried unchecking lock resistance, and using the median of the cold resistance over a few minutes.
The live is like .15ohm below the "cold" resistance though
Current build is 28 316l at 1.1ohm single in avocado22. Is great in VW at 19watts curve starts at 150 % decending to 80% over 4 second draw.... I want that. Or something close.
Duplicating settings in TC no joy...VW still better vape.. this is the most consistent build I've use for TC. Plain single spaced coil. going to get some 26 to try. Would buy some Ni or Ti to try but don't know what to get so staying with SS.
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If your cold resistance is not stable you have bigger issues. There is no way you're going to get a consistent vape.
I have a pico and a eVic Basic, both have live resistance fluctuations around .015 on multiple tanks/coils. Both list the "cold" resistance around .007-.015 above the typical median Live resistance.
Edit, tried TCR of up to 120, 120 is is about 75% of what im expecting, but still feels wrong.
I think im just going to stick with VW for now because these TCR values are absurd compared to what theyre supposed to be for 316LSS
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Ahh...
Ahh... You should know how TCR works.
Basically
1) In vape, TCR is how much percent on every 100°Celcius it changes. Not Farengeit. I don't know what you know about celcius, but 0 is when water start turn to ice, 100°C when water boils
For example, SS changes around 10% (it can be different)/100 C
It means TCR=100
If base coil (on 20 C) have 1 ohm, 120 C will have around 1.1 ohm, 220->1.2 ohm
Nickel changes 60%, or TCR 600
If ¨base=1, then 120°C≈1.6 ohm
2) Bigger resistance gives bigger accuracy
So, if base coil of ss=1 ohm, 120°C≈1.1ohm 200°C target resistance≈1.2ohm
If base resistance 0.1, device should catch 0.12 ohm, it improves error range
That's why if you want to use TC on nichrome with 1%/100°C or 10 TCR you should use coil with resistance >1ohm
3)If your device have correct TCR but
works normal on low °C like 120 it means that base resistance higher than real. Real resistance 1ohm, but if start point is 1.1 ohm, target resistance will be around 1.32 on ~1.2 (what you need) you will see about 90°C
And vs, if you should set too high temperature, base resistance lower than real.
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So Using TCR with F is whats throwing things off? Tried TCR of 130 and were getting close, but I suppose that could be the issue.
I guess ill just have to test F temps with equivalent C temps and see if it vapes the same
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