Uniform firmware for many devices - ArcticFox + NFirmwareEditor

[Firestorm]

Getting an error that the new updated software is not made for my device (eleaf Pico). Anyone successfully flash this AF update to a Pico yet?

There's a new version of NToolbox 2.0 that you need to use in order to update the Pico to the new firmware. I tried to upgrade my Pico to the new firmware using NFEToolbox 1.5 and I received the same error. I downloaded NToolbox 2.0 and I was able to update my Pico to the new firmware.

 

[DebbieNY]

There's a new version of NToolbox 2.0 that you need to use in order to update the Pico to the new firmware. I tried to upgrade my Pico to the new firmware using NFEToolbox 1.5 and I received the same error. I downloaded NToolbox 2.0 and I was able to update my Pico to the new firmware.

Ah ha, I missed that part. Thanks, @Firestorm !

How's the new software? If I want to go back to the older software, do I need to downgrade the Toolbox or will 2.0 work for both?

 

[93gc40]

Getting an error that the new updated software is not made for my device (eleaf Pico). Anyone successfully flash this AF update to a Pico yet?

Yes I have it on my pico.... no issues yet..... did have similar with earlier versions though. go to AF site or Scan up in the thread. There is a safe mode procedure. Allows for forced FW flashing... might have to go back to Eleaf FW re flash there before upgrading with AF.




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[Firestorm]

Ah ha, I missed that part. Thanks, @Firestorm !

How's the new software? If I want to go back to the older software, do I need to downgrade the Toolbox or will 2.0 work for both?

I haven't played around with the new firmware at all. However, using NToolbox 2.0 I was just able to downgrade to an earlier firmware version and then upgraded again back to the new without problems.

 

[jersey_emt]

I just got my new eVic Primo 2.0 delivered today, and after a quick function check with the stock firmware, I installed ArcticFox and it is working great. There's also a new user interface available which I think is awesome in both looks and functionality. You can still use the standard interface too if that's what you prefer.

 

[Alter]

I've had my Istick100TC for well over a year now. Within the last month I discovered Stainless wire so now using TC and having to learn how to handle it in TC and just the other day I find out there is this ArticFox firmware. My god its great once I figured out how to install it into my IStick.
I read through this thread and wow...lots of talk about stuff I have no idea about since I didn't need to know just vaping kanthal.
My only beef with the whole ArticFox and NFirmware was the lack of instruction that I had to install a bin file first before it would read my Istick. It took me a couple days of frustrating "device connected" and "unable to read device", reverted to so many old firmwares in both Istick and Articfox that I was afraid I was going to brick my unit. Finally after google searches I saw a video in Russian(not understand a word he said but watched what he was doing) that he installed a bin file as firmware into his device. Found the bin file and now all works well.
Thanks and now after 4 years vaping and building I'm still learning new things.

 

[sofarsogood]

Question. I big plus for me with Arctic Fox is the abillity to reset puff timer and counter. With the new release I can't figure out how to do that. Anybody know what I'm missing?

 

[93gc40]

It on the setting menu. expert. RCOBC y or n

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[sofarsogood]

It on the setting menu. expert. RCOBC y or n

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I figured out how to reset puff time and count. So far I haven't noticed any important changes in the latest revision. May be I'll discover something later.

 

[David Wolf]

Would like to hear experiences from anyone who has used Arctic Fox TCR settings on a Pico for SS.

 

[93gc40]

Would like to hear experiences from anyone who has used Arctic Fox TCR settings on a Pico for SS.

So would I....

Currently running Nectar Rtda 26awg 316L 7 wraps on 3mm .58ohm. TCR 70 wattage 23..... is OK but inconsistent. Much better in VW 16watts or so with custom power curve. Start at 150 decending to 90% over 3 second of draws.

Avocado has single 28ss at 1.1ohm same TCR and VW settings and results.


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[David Wolf]

So would I....

Currently running Nectar Rtda 26awg 316L 7 wraps on 3mm .58ohm. TCR 70 wattage 23..... is OK but inconsistent. Much better in VW 16watts or so with custom power curve. Start at 150 decending to 90% over 3 second of draws.

Avocado has single 28ss at 1.1ohm same TCR and VW settings and results.


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What mod/firmware are you using? My Pico has vers1.00.
Part of my problem has been getting resistance to lock properly, lock it and it changes anyway like its predicting my coil. This time I took lock off, took off atomizer, put back on and selected "new coil" and locked it at 0.67 which seemed high. After vaping a bit and letting it cool down with resistance unlocked it read 0.63 ohms. I figure that's my CLR coil so I locked it and it's staying at 0.63 ohms and behaving but I will see as I vape this tank down. 6 wraps spaced 28awg 316L. M1 TCR 80 (92 makes it 50 deg hotter than setting checked with a thermocouple) 11W temp 380 to 390. Vaping MTL. If it stays this good a vape I'll be happy.

 

[ddirtyvapes]

What mod/firmware are you using? My Pico has vers1.00.
Part of my problem has been getting resistance to lock properly, lock it and it changes anyway like its predicting my coil. This time I took lock off, took off atomizer, put back on and selected "new coil" and locked it at 0.67 which seemed high. After vaping a bit and letting it cool down with resistance unlocked it read 0.63 ohms. I figure that's my CLR coil so I locked it and it's staying at 0.63 ohms and behaving but I will see as I vape this tank down. 6 wraps spaced 28awg 316L. M1 TCR 80 (92 makes it 50 deg hotter than setting checked with a thermocouple) 11W temp 380 to 390. Vaping MTL. If it stays this good a vape I'll be happy.

It seems like you figured it out but that's exactly what you have to do with the actual eleaf firmware and changing atomizers/resistances. If you have an atomizer in TC mode on the pico (and I assume others with the same/similar firmware) and you take it off without unlocking and put on a new one, it will continue to read the original locked resistance AFAIK. If the resistances are drastically different it may re-lock properly, but especially if they're only a few hundredths of an ohm off in either direction, it will assume it's the same coil.

I would also be curious as to anyone who is using this with the Pico and SS.

@Firestorm where did you find the bin file? Sorry if I missed it...

 

[David Wolf]

It seems like you figured it out but that's exactly what you have to do with the actual eleaf firmware and changing atomizers/resistances. If you have an atomizer in TC mode on the pico (and I assume others with the same/similar firmware) and you take it off without unlocking and put on a new one, it will continue to read the original locked resistance AFAIK. If the resistances are drastically different it may re-lock properly, but especially if they're only a few hundredths of an ohm off in either direction, it will assume it's the same coil.

I would also be curious as to anyone who is using this with the Pico and SS.

@Firestorm where did you find the bin file? Sorry if I missed it...

Well the problem was it would change resistance after I had just locked it. Jumping from .59 to .62 for example as soon as I would touch the fire button like it assumes it was the same coil as I had in previously which was .62. It's not doing that now that I've learned to take atomizer off and put back on with it unlocked and select "new coil". Maybe something I was doing or maybe squirrely circuit or firmware. If it keeps behaving now I'll know it was me

 

[ddirtyvapes]

Right, sorry, that's what I meant, although you might be describing a different problem than I thought. Mine would do the same as yours, jump as soon as I hit the fire button, but it was (I think) invariably jumping to the previously locked resistance rather than something random. If yours seemed to be jumping "randomly," as in not to a previously locked resistance, that's a little different-- though it sounds like the fix was the same regardless!

 

[David Wolf]

Right, sorry, that's what I meant, although you might be describing a different problem than I thought. Mine would do the same as yours, jump as soon as I hit the fire button, but it was (I think) invariably jumping to the previously locked resistance rather than something random. If yours seemed to be jumping "randomly," as in not to a previously locked resistance, that's a little different-- though it sounds like the fix was the same regardless!

I think we had the same problem I clarified above I hope. Anyway I will take more care when I change coils again. Thanks

 

[David Wolf]

Right, sorry, that's what I meant, although you might be describing a different problem than I thought. Mine would do the same as yours, jump as soon as I hit the fire button, but it was (I think) invariably jumping to the previously locked resistance rather than something random. If yours seemed to be jumping "randomly," as in not to a previously locked resistance, that's a little different-- though it sounds like the fix was the same regardless!

Ahah! I found the answer on a post on fasttech to what the problem is, and a solution:
"The resistance lock isn't actually a resistance lock. It basically stops the device from asking you if it's a new atomizer or not. That new atomizer feature is what actually seems to lock in the base resistance. It also only seems to ask if it's a new atomizer if the base resistance is a certain +/- off the last atomizer coil AND after the device has gone to sleep (or maybe powered off, haven't tested that out too much yet) AND the lock icon is off."
He goes on to describe the fix for when your new coil is close to the resistance of your old, but different:
Fixing the Eleaf iStick TC40w initial resistance locking problem.: FastTech Forums

This explains why I was finally able to get it to lock to the resistance of my new coil 0.63 (previous was 0.62) only after I was able to get the mod to ask if it was a new coil after I had heated it up some.

UPDATE:
I was not able to reliably get the "New coil up same down" message using the above linked method. If you don't get this message, you are NOT locking in your new coil resistance. I did some further reading and experimented, and have a method that works every time to ensure that you get the "New coil up same down" message so your new coil resistance can be entered correctly. Posted in the Pico thread:
Eleaf iStick "pico"

 

[ddirtyvapes]

HOW ABOUT THAT. Huh. Thank you for finding that out! That is a big help!

And yes, we have definitely been having the same problem.

Still curious about this firmware though....

 

[David Wolf]

HOW ABOUT THAT. Huh. Thank you for finding that out! That is a big help!

And yes, we have definitely been having the same problem.

Still curious about this firmware though....

Oh, me too! When my second Pico arrives, I should at least have the Pico firmware quirks figured out... and then I want to put Artic Fox on the one I have

 

[ddirtyvapes]

Would you mind letting me know if you end up doing it? I actually already have two Picos so I'm extra tempted, but only one is really in rotation atm...