USA Made OHM Meters

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Sirius

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Kinda cool. I've always wanted one that read lower than 0.00. So, with this thing.... if the coil is subohm, it will show 3 numbers all of which are after the decimal point? Like, if it shows "221" it would be a "0.221ohm" coil. And if it's above an ohm, it would still only read 3 numbers, but it would have a decimal point after the first number right? So it would for instance show "1.34" meaning it was a 1.34ohm coil?

One thing that would worry me is the 3D printed part. I've seen some really shoty 3D print stuff lately that just breaks so easily.

Side note: if you had a 28 - 30 mm atomizer, would it cover up the last decimal point number on the screen?

Yeah hey Gummy..Sorry the biggest I got is 22mm Billow. I like small chambers for flavor as as stated before..I'm a 5 o'clock builder. Never going below .5Ω

I can tell you the Sig100 ain't so very accurate if this twisted .6Ω set of 28ga coils is any indication.

6472e824-c3c9-425c-ae7e-f2d24718a10e_zps9kw06ueg.jpg


fe374658-f62e-4fe3-9253-96f116b1c1e2_zpspo7mkgtm.jpg
 

pdib

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You never cease to amaze me Peter..Welding rods now eh? What next a Thulium build? Guess a laser atty would have to be used with that though. :D


Oh my ... here I am giving the master new ideas tryin' to be funny. I wouldn't be shocked if ya did come up with a laser atty bro! :p

don't look at me, Rick. that wasn't my idea. 2pak sent me that rod and I think Mundy's the one who started the whole thing. I actually had to clamp my darkzero coil jig down to my work bench and use hemostats on the other end to wrap it, pulling as hard as I could to tension it. :facepalm: 22g Kanthal is much more reasonable.

So, yeah, I checked this meter as thoroughly as I could; built a bunch of coils to as exact a spec as I could using SteamEngine, and they tested out exactly the same on the meter. I had one before that I passed along to a friend as he was overseas and I was shipping to him anyway. That one was off by a hair; but still within USA's stated tolerances (which are pretty impressive).
 
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pdib

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Kinda cool. I've always wanted one that read lower than 0.00. So, with this thing.... if the coil is subohm, it will show 3 numbers all of which are after the decimal point? Like, if it shows "221" it would be a "0.221ohm" coil. And if it's above an ohm, it would still only read 3 numbers, but it would have a decimal point after the first number right? So it would for instance show "1.34" meaning it was a 1.34ohm coil?

One thing that would worry me is the 3D printed part. I've seen some really shoty 3D print stuff lately that just breaks so easily.

Side note: if you had a 28 - 30 mm atomizer, would it cover up the last decimal point number on the screen?

correct correct correct ↑

I measured center of 510 to edge of display screen. On mine, it's 16.5mm (so a 30mm atty would not cover the display at all). Also, center of 510 to switch in "OFF" position (closer) is like 19mm.
 

Sirius

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don't look at me, Rick. that wasn't my idea. 2pak sent me that rod and I think Mundy's the one who started the whole thing. I actually had to clamp my darkzero coil jig down to my work bench and use hemostats on the other end to wrap it, pulling as hard as I could to tension it. :facepalm: 22g Kanthal is much more reasonable.

So, yeah, I checked this meter as thoroughly as I could; built a bunch of coils to as exact a spec as I could using SteamEngine, and they tested out exactly the same on the meter. I had one before that I passed along to a friend as he was overseas and I was shipping to him anyway. That one was off by a hair; but still within USA's stated tolerances (which are pretty impressive).

That pretty much tells me it's about as accurate as it get's then..Thanks I was a bit worried about posting this thread until I talked to a few other spec crazy peeps. :D

Mundy eh? That's mans a coil genuis if ever was one. ;)
 
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inswva

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I received my 3D printed meter yesterday. It appears to be very nicely built. It is incredibly light due to the printed material and the fact it uses a button style cell versus AA cells but it does not feel fragile.

My Squape R, as shown, is reading .423ohm on the meter. It reads .42ohm on my Yihi SX Mini which has shown itself to be very accurate. So, looks like the electronics are solid.

Pics:





 

DaveP

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Picked up the cheapest one of these just to see how accurate they read..seems legit..Now onto the printed version. :D


1413832194587163737928.jpeg


3D Printed Ohm Meter White Blue Red Green Orange Pink Black

Details:

  • Accurate to +/- 0.018 Ohms (see second picture for data results)
  • Reads from 0.00 to 5.00 Ohms
  • Default "U.S.A" startup screen. Can be customized for Wholesale Customers
  • Our designed PC Board layout/routing
  • Our custom code
  • Our production
  • Standard AA Battery Box
  • 510 connector (gold or silver depending on stock at time of assembly)
  • LED protected INSIDE the box
  • Made in the USA sticker on back side
  • Mini screw-driver attached
  • (2) Batteries NOT Included
  • (1) Case screw not included
  • 30-day warrenty from manufacturer defect. Any claims will need to return for review

If you want to check accuracy, go out and buy some 1% precision resistors to compare the readings. That may be critical with low resistance coils.
 

DaveP

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I use a Simson digital meter, a Chinese Fluke 87 knockoff, some $5 cheapo meters, and a 510 socket ohm meter that costs about $15 to read my coils. I also use the resistance features of my Provari, Sigelei Zmax, and Eleaf iStick. They all read within a tenth of an ohm of each other and that's fine for winding 2 ohm coils.

For .18 coils you definitely need something accurate, but how do you check accuracy on something that's designed to read within .018 ohm? The best you can do without entering a lab environment is to compare them to 1% precision resistors that you can buy online. A 1 ohm 1% precision resistor should read between .99 and 1.01 ohms. A meter with accuracy to .018 ohms could be 2% off at 1 ohm, but that's seriously accurate for most off the shelf meters.
 

anavidfan

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I have a questions for you all, I was very frivolous and got the high end model. It is nice looking but, I have a problem "trusting" it. It never stops reading, the last figure constantly changes. I rebuilt so many times thinking I just goofed up. Finally took my atty and put it on my older OHM reader and it reads a couple numbers higher, but steady reading.

Do all you get constant fluctuations ? It is bothering me as I find that Im not using the USA one because I dont feel comfortable not getting a steady reading like I did with the electricians types with the leads etc.

With the standard OHM readers if I ever had a build that fluctuated and never stopped reading and Id use it anyway, Id get hot buttons or bad performance.

I contacted USA meters and they told me that the spassy fluctuations and non stop numbers was normal due to it being so accurate. Im skeptical....
 

TKS

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thanks, I just wanted to make sure it was normal, so everyone elses jumps around and all is fine? I get a bit paranoid when it comes to electronics.
I got the glow in the dark baby blue and the reading jumps because it's measuring in a high accuracy that due to the nature of the metal or heat/corrosion the reading will change because that's what's happening in real time based on current.
 
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anavidfan

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Thank
I

I got the glow in the dark baby blue and the reading jumps because it's measuring in a high accuracy that due to the nature of the metal or heat/corrosion the reading will change because that's what's happening in real time based on current.

Thanks for the input, so it happens to everyone.... and normal :) Glad to know its not just me.
 

jj6404

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I just picked up one of the "ultimate" versions which is the middle version. The cheapest one with a veritube 510 basically. I got it because I thought I could build on it too but it started turning when I was tightening a screw on an atty so I guess I can't build on it. What's the point of getting the "ultimate" version for $5-$6 more then? A more durable 510 connection?

Anyway my real question for this thread is about the number fluctuations. I figured that it was normal because of the accuracy or whatever but what if your number in the hundredths is one of the numbers that changes? Like if your reading fluctuates more than just a few thousandths but it fluctuates one one hundredth or more? Does that mean you may have a short or is that normal as well?


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TKS

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I just picked up one of the "ultimate" versions which is the middle version. The cheapest one with a veritube 510 basically. I got it because I thought I could build on it too but it started turning when I was tightening a screw on an atty so I guess I can't build on it. What's the point of getting the "ultimate" version for $5-$6 more then? A more durable 510 connection?

Anyway my real question for this thread is about the number fluctuations. I figured that it was normal because of the accuracy or whatever but what if your number in the hundredths is one of the numbers that changes? Like if your reading fluctuates more than just a few thousandths but it fluctuates one one hundredth or more? Does that mean you may have a short or is that normal as well?


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One thousandths fluctuations is true to life based on amient temp changes. There is no issue but in fact super accuracy.
 
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