That fatdaddy spring loaded 510 on the deluxe version is pretty boss. They should make a wood one. That would be killer. Not that old think of it, we'll probably see wood ones in the near future. If not from these guys, somewhere.
Kinda cool. I've always wanted one that read lower than 0.00. So, with this thing.... if the coil is subohm, it will show 3 numbers all of which are after the decimal point? Like, if it shows "221" it would be a "0.221ohm" coil. And if it's above an ohm, it would still only read 3 numbers, but it would have a decimal point after the first number right? So it would for instance show "1.34" meaning it was a 1.34ohm coil?
One thing that would worry me is the 3D printed part. I've seen some really shoty 3D print stuff lately that just breaks so easily.
Side note: if you had a 28 - 30 mm atomizer, would it cover up the last decimal point number on the screen?
You never cease to amaze me Peter..Welding rods now eh? What next a Thulium build? Guess a laser atty would have to be used with that though.
Oh my ... here I am giving the master new ideas tryin' to be funny. I wouldn't be shocked if ya did come up with a laser atty bro!![]()
Kinda cool. I've always wanted one that read lower than 0.00. So, with this thing.... if the coil is subohm, it will show 3 numbers all of which are after the decimal point? Like, if it shows "221" it would be a "0.221ohm" coil. And if it's above an ohm, it would still only read 3 numbers, but it would have a decimal point after the first number right? So it would for instance show "1.34" meaning it was a 1.34ohm coil?
One thing that would worry me is the 3D printed part. I've seen some really shoty 3D print stuff lately that just breaks so easily.
Side note: if you had a 28 - 30 mm atomizer, would it cover up the last decimal point number on the screen?
don't look at me, Rick. that wasn't my idea. 2pak sent me that rod and I think Mundy's the one who started the whole thing. I actually had to clamp my darkzero coil jig down to my work bench and use hemostats on the other end to wrap it, pulling as hard as I could to tension it.22g Kanthal is much more reasonable.
So, yeah, I checked this meter as thoroughly as I could; built a bunch of coils to as exact a spec as I could using SteamEngine, and they tested out exactly the same on the meter. I had one before that I passed along to a friend as he was overseas and I was shipping to him anyway. That one was off by a hair; but still within USA's stated tolerances (which are pretty impressive).
Picked up the cheapest one of these just to see how accurate they read..seems legit..Now onto the printed version.
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3D Printed Ohm Meter White Blue Red Green Orange Pink Black
Details:
- Accurate to +/- 0.018 Ohms (see second picture for data results)
- Reads from 0.00 to 5.00 Ohms
- Default "U.S.A" startup screen. Can be customized for Wholesale Customers
- Our designed PC Board layout/routing
- Our custom code
- Our production
- Standard AA Battery Box
- 510 connector (gold or silver depending on stock at time of assembly)
- LED protected INSIDE the box
- Made in the USA sticker on back side
- Mini screw-driver attached
- (2) Batteries NOT Included
- (1) Case screw not included
- 30-day warrenty from manufacturer defect. Any claims will need to return for review
I got the glow in the dark baby blue and the reading jumps because it's measuring in a high accuracy that due to the nature of the metal or heat/corrosion the reading will change because that's what's happening in real time based on current.thanks, I just wanted to make sure it was normal, so everyone elses jumps around and all is fine? I get a bit paranoid when it comes to electronics.
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I got the glow in the dark baby blue and the reading jumps because it's measuring in a high accuracy that due to the nature of the metal or heat/corrosion the reading will change because that's what's happening in real time based on current.
One thousandths fluctuations is true to life based on amient temp changes. There is no issue but in fact super accuracy.I just picked up one of the "ultimate" versions which is the middle version. The cheapest one with a veritube 510 basically. I got it because I thought I could build on it too but it started turning when I was tightening a screw on an atty so I guess I can't build on it. What's the point of getting the "ultimate" version for $5-$6 more then? A more durable 510 connection?
Anyway my real question for this thread is about the number fluctuations. I figured that it was normal because of the accuracy or whatever but what if your number in the hundredths is one of the numbers that changes? Like if your reading fluctuates more than just a few thousandths but it fluctuates one one hundredth or more? Does that mean you may have a short or is that normal as well?
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