usb passthrough
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I have not had any problems on any puter I have plugged mine into. The ac adapter will not work if it is not a 2amp I believe. The one I tried was a 500ma and it would not fire...plugged into pc works great. Although I am only getting 3.7v under load, 5v with no load...kinda strange but...ehh...it works great!
I believe most pc's have usb protection. I have a passsthru and if I try to draw to many amps (different attys) it will shut off the passthru. Some atty/ pv can draw over 2 amps. Most pc's usb port will only support 2 or less amps.
thats strange, as my 500ma Plug to USB fires my homemade passthrough just fine.
I am, however, using a 15a switch (the only switch I had) so maybe that's why.
I am also using mine with my powered USB Hub.
(note: I have no LEDs on my box, its just going from the usb wire, switch, 510 connector)
I drilled a hole for an LED, but didn't have any resistors, so I didn't put it in
I am, however, using a 15a switch (the only switch I had) so maybe that's why.
I am also using mine with my powered USB Hub.
(note: I have no LEDs on my box, its just going from the usb wire, switch, 510 connector)
I drilled a hole for an LED, but didn't have any resistors, so I didn't put it in
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hmmm. $15 passthrough versus $1500 computer... or for savy users $150 mobo and time to replace.
Just doesn't add up to me.
Good luck!
Thats why I use mine with a Powered USB Hub or my Wall Outlet to USB Adapter (even works on my car's A/C Inverter with USB power)
FYI, all the tech savy users (like myself) know that USB Ports are protected, and shut down if the power drain is too high
Are you not running a ground? i can tell the black wire is actually the red (hot wire) but i dont see your ground? I made one of these and it didnt work ( i used the red and black wire) but i wall outlet for fear of me screwing it up and frying my usb plug.. Imagine that lol
There are two types of PTs, so people get confused. The "regular" charge via USB PTs with batteries are, of course, not an issue. It's the direct-PTs (5v) that cause the issues (like the homemade ones you are talking about).
Sigh. You know, it MAY work. USB ports are protected (per the "tech savy" comments above) and the newer standards (3.0) are even more robust. That said, there are so many variations of equipment (old mobo's with 1.0 usb ports, laptops, netbooks, usb 2.0, usb 3.0...lots of chipsets) that it's just a good general recommendation to avoid it.
^^^^ this.
Also, understand that protected ports != (not equal) perfect safety. The 2.0 amp/10 watt draw, on/off/on/off/on/off with vaping still stresses the components and the mobo is a lot more expensive than a $10.00 wall wart IMHO. It's just cheap insurance. The low voltage others have mentioned is due to their particular port not putting out enough amps under load (thus it is stressed). 3.7 volts is either a battery powered PT (unlikely since 5v no-load), limiting circuitry, or only 1.2 amps from the port (voltage suffers). Many ports even have a 500ma per port limitation depending on the device and standard. You get the idea.
Also, a wall wart allows you to vape wherever there is an outlet (no computer required) so you should probably have one anyway.
So, if it works with your USB port, but not the wall adapter:
1) underpowered wall adapter (you need about 2.0 amps)
2) busted/fried wall adapter that is malfunctioning.
3) bad outlet?
solution: use proper outlet and/or replace the wall adapter for $10.00 or less.
Sigh. You know, it MAY work. USB ports are protected (per the "tech savy" comments above) and the newer standards (3.0) are even more robust. That said, there are so many variations of equipment (old mobo's with 1.0 usb ports, laptops, netbooks, usb 2.0, usb 3.0...lots of chipsets) that it's just a good general recommendation to avoid it.
hmmm. $15 passthrough versus $1500 computer... or for savy users $150 mobo and time to replace.
Just doesn't add up to me.
Good luck!
^^^^ this.
Also, understand that protected ports != (not equal) perfect safety. The 2.0 amp/10 watt draw, on/off/on/off/on/off with vaping still stresses the components and the mobo is a lot more expensive than a $10.00 wall wart IMHO. It's just cheap insurance. The low voltage others have mentioned is due to their particular port not putting out enough amps under load (thus it is stressed). 3.7 volts is either a battery powered PT (unlikely since 5v no-load), limiting circuitry, or only 1.2 amps from the port (voltage suffers). Many ports even have a 500ma per port limitation depending on the device and standard. You get the idea.
Also, a wall wart allows you to vape wherever there is an outlet (no computer required) so you should probably have one anyway.
So, if it works with your USB port, but not the wall adapter:
1) underpowered wall adapter (you need about 2.0 amps)
2) busted/fried wall adapter that is malfunctioning.
3) bad outlet?
solution: use proper outlet and/or replace the wall adapter for $10.00 or less.
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To add to your comments AttyPops, Powered USB Hubs also work well, and since your getting USB Power from the wall plug of the Powered USB Hub, no risk of poping a USB Port on your system
I use my Powered USB Hub at my computer, and have a Wall Wart for the bedroom when my batteries are dead
I use my Powered USB Hub at my computer, and have a Wall Wart for the bedroom when my batteries are dead
LOL yes I am running the ground, I didn't have any other colored wire from the switch to the addy, so the +Pos goes to the switch, then a black wire from the switch to the center pole of the 510 connector, then the +Neg from the USB to the Outer of the 510 Connector
Yeah I figured that's what you was doing.. Im just not able to see a ground running to the connector.. But then again I am on a mobil cell and blown up pic lose detail.
Thank you all for the insight..
Thank you all for the insight..
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