V3 Mechanical Mod(Sentinel Clone) VS Private V2 (Grand Vapor Clone) from fasttech.com

[AdrenalinnRush]

Greetings Vapees,

I've been using e-cigs for a couple years and have never stepped into the world of mods (except for a small box mod). I went to the only local E cig shop in Portland Oregon and the cheapest mod was around 140(no way am i going to pay that much for a mechanical mod). I've done some research and want a simple mechanical mod that will last for years. Upon researching mods, i stumbled upon fasttech.com. They have two Mods that have peaked my interest. The...

• V3 Mechanical Mod(Sentinel Clone) $18

and

• Private V2 (Grand Vapor Clone) $20

Both have great reviews. I know it's not the "real thing" but for literally 1/10th the price, who can complain? Some reviews say they are as close to a 1:1 clone as you can get.

I read that the V2 Clone has a Stainless Steel Pin; is conductivity going to be a problem? Also, there have been reports that the pin isn't perfectly level so a little diy adjusting is in order sometimes.

I've read that some clone kickers don't work in the V3. I've never used a kicker and don't know if i'll need one. I'm confident in my abilities in making wicks as well as measuring the Ω, so i don't know if i really need one. I bought an aw 18650 2000mah battery and an AGA-T2 in preparation for my first mod.

I guess maybe a little guidance is all i need. Did i do a good job narrowing down a good first mechanical mod? Any cheap mod's i've overlooked? Any input would be great.

 

[TheNaturalist]

I was just looking at the V2 on Wednesday night and I would swear that it was sold out! As a new vaper myself I cant really help you based on experience, I might pick the V2 because I like the way it looks better but thats subjective. I am very interested in what some more experienced vapers have to say about which one is more functional so im subbed for the ride!

When I was browsing their mechs I also noticed the Chi-you clone starts in the same price range but is more expensive for the ones made with good materials... I have the Magneto and I love it but the one on FastTech for $22 doesnt appear to be legit (the machining is slightly different then the picture on the Smoktech website and my own)

 

[AdrenalinnRush]

@thenaturalist They Re-stocked the V2 on 9/11 and sold out in under 24 hours. They have since re-stocked a second time. I went ahead and ordered it in fear that they would sell out again. I'm guessing i have at least 24-72 hours before they ship it out so i can always cancel the shipment if they suggest something else in the meantime. And i agree with you. The V2 does looks nicer. I'm just wondering if it functions as well.

 

[ethebull]

I have two V3's from FT, one in solid brass and one with mixed aluminum. Avoid the aluminum - the 510 threads will not last. The all brass one is a fantastic mod for the $. I have the stainless V2 on the way. It shipped yesterday, and I expect it will be just as good and more durable.

The switch is simple and reliable, the threads are well executed, the voltage drop is minimal... A no brainer for the $$

My current collection of China mods, in order of preference - V3 brass, K100, Chi Chi custom hybrid, Chi Chi, iSeason, V3 Aluminum (510 threads are toast after 2 months), Segeli #20 (hazardous switch design).

 

[darkhorsefkn]

Hi guys,

I own a v3 clone in all brass, an m16 in aluminium and brass, and the private v2 in stainless / copper / brass.

I have been using them side by side to compare, here are my thoughts.

Best conductivity: I think the v3, this mod hits super hard. The m16 also hits like a train. The v2 feels like its under performing alongside these two. I was expecting more from the v2, silver plated pins and copper switch housing and all, but it just doesn't keep up with the others. I'll get the multi out and do some tests later, but I am sure the v2 is not performing up to the standard of the other two (which is exceptional mind you. I am talking about really good vs amazing here... )

Best looks: v2 for me, its also the smallest mod I've ever used. The v3 is a bit industrial looking especially once it starts to tarnish up. It has sharpish edges, not so it would hurt you or they are uncomfortable, but some people may dislike the feel of it in their hand. the m16 looks great but the aluminium is a different color to all your stainless atomizers and wont match. Also scratches easy. Kinda want want a brass m16 as well now...

Best switch: they all have similar switches but they are not identical. The v2 has the smallest gaps, works best and feels best. the v3 switch is prone to screwing itself out and the m16 switch makes the mod sit crooked unless you lock it with the locking ring.

The positive pins...

the v3 positive pin has a neat little arrangement with a spring that auto adjusts. Works well but on my one the entire delrin insert likes to fall out. This isnt a big problem. Pin is brass like everything else on the v3

the v2 positive pin is "floating" but its stuck in there really tight. It's starting to loosen up now after some use, but if you need to push it back up for an atty with a shorter 510 connector, you may need to take the cap off and tap it with something. Mine now has a little circular mark where I used a stainless driptip and wrench to hammer it back in. Will try to avoid switching atomizers too much to avoid wrecking the plating. Looks silver plated, could be chromed I guess, which may explain the reduction in performance.

the m16 positive pin is brass, and the same design as the one in the v2, but it doesn't get stuck and works like a charm. This is how positive pins should work.

What should you get?

if you want an indestructible, heavy duty, high performance mod - get the v3
if you want the looks, the build quality, the nicest switch and can handle having to mess around with the pin - get the v2
If you want performance, but not the heavy feel of an all brass mod the m16 is also great.

and no, you cant mix and match parts. None of the threads match between mods.

I had put the m16 aside a couple of days ago. Since firing it up again before writing this, its growing on me a bit more. It annoys me that when I set it down it sits crooked, could potentially fix this by fiddling with the switch again. It does feel great in the hand, however, and hits really nice and hard.

For the price these things cost you really cant go wrong whichever you choose. Why not get one of each? I just cant help myself with fasttech prices.

Nemesis clone on the way as well, also I have the EA clone from them which is awesome.

For all that, however, none of them come close to the nzonic in terms of usability. It really is in another class altogether

 

[darkhorsefkn]

Well. That was unexpected. I went and measured the voltage drop on them all and the results did not match what I was thinking based on just using the mods. I guess this is why we measure.

So the test were done using a panasonic CGR18650CH and an igo-W with a dual 5/6 wrap of 28g kanthal that comes out to 0.8ohms

First I measure the battery volts by touching the leads of the dmm to each end, then I assemble the mod, stick the needles into the top of the igo posts and fire the mod, recording the voltage that way.

The m16 clone aluminum / brass:
battery voltage = 4.10
volts across the posts = 3.86
0.24v drop

The sentinel v3 clone all brass:
battery voltage = 4.08
volts across the posts = 3.79
0.29v drop

The private v2 clone stainless / copper / brass:
battery voltage = 4.07
volts across the posts = 3.81
0.26v drop

I guess the takeway from this is that they all perform well enough that it doesn't matter which you choose. 0.05v one way or the other shouldn't be a factor in your decision making imo, its not significant.

Interested to hear about other peoples experience and how it compares.

 

[darkhorsefkn]

Ran the same test on some other mods for reference purposes:

EA clone (fasttech)
battery voltage = 4.07
volts across the posts = 3.68
0.39 drop (theres a spring in this mod so this was expected. It's still a great mod, just not super low voltage drop)

K100 original (what a beast of mod this one is)
battery voltage 4.06
volts across the posts 3.78
0.28v drop

Nzonic v3 (has not been cleaned in ages, performance is a bit down from usual)
battery voltage 4.06
volts across the posts 3.72
0.34v drop

All tests were done using the same atomizer, battery and multimeter. The results are useful for comparing one mod to another, but a different battery / atomizer / multimeter would produce different numbers

 

[War Mouse]

Honest and truly, as an "experienced" mod vapor I'll give you my two cents on the OP. "A tube mod is a tube mod is a tube mod". When it comes to mechanicles it is all about what you want vs. what you are willing to pay. You can find mechanicles that cost over $600 if you look and want to spend that kind of money but if you're willing to be gentle on the threads and maybe drop $10 at home depot you can get the exact same performance out of the $11 clone on FT. The major difference between the expensive "real" tubes and the clones is a bit of fiddling. Since I fiddled with my $200+ first run GLV3 I don't mind buying the cheaper ones now to tweak. Don't get me wrong, my GLV3 is likely to live longer than I do, and if you have the cash I highly recommend GLV's. They're pretty much bomb proof for what it's worth which is why I bought it in the first place. I still use it. Everyday. But since I have a guaranteed mech in my life I buy things that look cool or have interesting buttons or whatever else catches my eye. I haven't bought a mech yet that didn't deliver A+ performance after some thread cleaning and a brass screw or two. Spending the big bucks just means you shouldn't have to fiddle with it at all. For some people that's worth it. You just have to ask yourself if it's worth it to you.

 

[havoc1967]

I have an all brass V3 on the way so was very glad to read this particular post. Now if it would just hurry up and get here. I also have the TVS "Chiablo" on the way. Couldn't decide between the 2 so ordered both. That one also seems to have a good reputation.

I have two V3's from FT, one in solid brass and one with mixed aluminum. Avoid the aluminum - the 510 threads will not last. The all brass one is a fantastic mod for the $. I have the stainless V2 on the way. It shipped yesterday, and I expect it will be just as good and more durable.

The switch is simple and reliable, the threads are well executed, the voltage drop is minimal... A no brainer for the $$

My current collection of China mods, in order of preference - V3 brass, K100, Chi Chi custom hybrid, Chi Chi, iSeason, V3 Aluminum (510 threads are toast after 2 months), Segeli #20 (hazardous switch design).

 

[sandybeach]

I have had a V3 Sentinel Clone from FT for a few months. I popped a 510 adapter on it when I first got it, because the discussions said that the aluminum 510 connection is weak. It's been great! I love it, and for $12, how can you go wrong?

I just ordered the Stainless Steel Private V2 from FT, I should have it this week.

 

[ethebull]

My aluminum V3 threads were pretty trashed after two months, even with TLC, but I bought an airflow controller to give it a new lease on life. The AFC has a long 510 thread post, so it engaged some less buggered up thread in the top cap. We'll see how much extra usefulness I get.

 

[sandybeach]

Off topic, but does the Segelei Zmax have an aluminum 510 connection? I stripped mine out in a couple of months.

 

[ryzsm]

Private v2s brass tube has a lot of issues. If you want to be gentle fairy or something with your mods then I guess that works too.

 

[Dodge2Dub]

Hi guys,
The positive pins...

the v3 positive pin has a neat little arrangement with a spring that auto adjusts. Works well but on my one the entire delrin insert likes to fall out. This isnt a big problem. Pin is brass like everything else on the v3

Hi, how did you fix the problem of the delrin insert falling out?