Vacuum in Orchid V2

[jleeper]

I recently got Focalecig group buy Orchid V2 that leaks like crazy with all the builds I've tried. Everything comes out the airholes in not a very long time. From info I've found here,I've got two ideas on what might happening:

1) I'm not wicking correctly. I may need to either make sure cotton is covering the liquid channels, or put a bit of cotton down the channels.

or

2) I've got a air leak. I've tested it by covering the two air holes and sucking. I get a bit of air from the 510 connector (to the mod, not the drip tip). When I cover both air holes and the 510 connector I get a tight tank and cant suck any air out of it. Is air coming though the 510 normal or is that the cause of my leak? And if it is, how do I fix it? Can I take the 510 screw out and put a o-ring in? I really don't want to start messing with the bottom of the Orchid unless I have to.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Storm Cloud]

When you bottom fill, I'd recommend using a syringe or needle point bottle. The pressure created when filling with normal bottle was flooding the tank. Hope that helps, since using this method, I've had no more leaking.

 

[ImThatGuy]

Wicking problem.

 

[State O' Flux]

I recently got Focalecig group buy Orchid V2 that leaks like crazy with all the builds I've tried. Everything comes out the airholes in not a very long time. From info I've found here,I've got two ideas on what might happening:

1) I'm not wicking correctly. I may need to either make sure cotton is covering the liquid channels, or put a bit of cotton down the channels.

The wick tails need to rest on the top surface of the build deck... directly above, and covering the juice channels, but not in them.
The Orchid is just like a KFL or R91% in that, with an adequate tank negative pressure (vacuum), you should not have liquid on the build deck, even with no wick at all. This is because these particular atomizers do not rely on filling or blocking the juice orifices with wicking, to prevent juice transfer... but rather a pressure boundary layer that exists at the juice channels.

You have, when not in use, positive (atmospheric) pressure in the vaporization chamber, and negative pressure in the tank. Juice flows into the chamber when your draw negative pressure exceeds the negative pressure in the tank.

The negative pressure in the tank is created when you initially assemble, fill and draw on the tank. If no vacuum exists, juice will run out the AFC ports... which is why it's suggested to leave the tank upside down and produce that initial vacuum prior to turning the tank right-side-up.

or

2) I've got a air leak. I've tested it by covering the two air holes and sucking. I get a bit of air from the 510 connector (to the mod, not the drip tip). When I cover both air holes and the 510 connector I get a tight tank and cant suck any air out of it. Is air coming though the 510 normal or is that the cause of my leak? And if it is, how do I fix it? Can I take the 510 screw out and put a o-ring in?

Thanks in advance.

Yes... you can fit an o-ring under the 510 pin to better seal it... but in theory, it doesn't matter because the chamber, AFC and 510 pin orifice are all exposed to positive pressure.

Chinese RTA makers can sometimes play "fast and loose" with critical dimensions. If the juice channels are oversize, even by a small amount, the weight of the liquid itself, and it's natural tendency to seek it's own level, can overcome the balance of pressures.
This is why you seldom hear about issues with genuine Orchid, KFL or R91% attys, or quality 1:1 clones... but do run into issues with lower priced clones, where a few thousands of an inch out of tolerance here and there are less a concern to the makers.

You can try adding additional wicking above and into the juice channels... making your boundary layer atomizer more like a non-boundary layer, "wick/orifice-seal" design, like The Squape, Taifun GT, Ithaka, Fogger V's, Aqua and even my favorite, the GUS Estia. Along with their clones and variations, all fall into this category to one degree or another... with their wicks exposed to the juice tank. This isn't a bad thing, if done correctly, it works well and consistently.

Good luck...