VAMO V3 Disassembly

[SilverZero]

Hi all,

Has anyone figured out how to gain access to the PCB inside the V3? The one in mine is mounted inside at an angle, so the left side of the screen and the left button are raised higher than the right side. For the life of me I can't figure out how to get in there. I've seen talk of people using the guts of the V3 in other mods but I'm not sure if they are cutting them open or if there is a way to access it without destroying the tube.

Everything works fine, but it's been bothering me lately and I was hoping that I could remove the PCB from it temporarily like people have done with the V2 and put it back in straight.

Thanks in advance.

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

V3 head is press fit into the upper control body part...

If you look from the bottom the lower ring where the battery sits appears to be "braised" in

Might be able to screw a 510 connector on the head part and "wiggle" it out of the body

I'm currently using my VAMO V3 and don't want to risk NOT being able to use it

 

[SilverZero]

V3 head is press fit into the upper control body part...

If you look from the bottom the lower ring where the battery sits appears to be "braised" in

Might be able to screw a 510 connector on the head part and "wiggle" it out of the body

I'm currently using my VAMO V3 and don't want to risk NOT being able to use it

I'm using mine as well, I guess it's probably not worth the risk of damaging it. Maybe someday when I have a new mod and my VAMO is collecting dust I'll try to fix it.

Thanks.

 

[Trayce]

Hi all,

Has anyone figured out how to gain access to the PCB inside the V3? The one in mine is mounted inside at an angle, so the left side of the screen and the left button are raised higher than the right side. For the life of me I can't figure out how to get in there. I've seen talk of people using the guts of the V3 in other mods but I'm not sure if they are cutting them open or if there is a way to access it without destroying the tube.

Everything works fine, but it's been bothering me lately and I was hoping that I could remove the PCB from it temporarily like people have done with the V2 and put it back in straight.

Thanks in advance.

Here is disassembly of a V2. The guy doesn't get around to the actual disassembly until the 1:26 mark, if you want to skip ahead... not a V3 but I wouldn't be surprised if they are put together the same exact way as the previous versions. Not that you're going to hang your hat on that, but FWIW...

 

[SilverZero]

Here is disassembly of a V2. The guy doesn't get around to the actual disassembly until the 1:26 mark, if you want to skip ahead... not a V3 but I wouldn't be surprised if they are put together the same exact way as the previous versions. Not that you're going to hang your hat on that, but FWIW...

The V3 is built differently, unfortunately. There is no top section of the tube to remove like with the V2.

 

[Trayce]

Bummer. I don't imagine it should be too long a wait before someone in the world ruins their V3 inadvertently and takes it apart for a YouTube vid. It would annoy me too to have buttons at different heights and the screen slightly askew. Even though it's not the end of the world, it's something I'd constantly notice. That would niggle for sure.

 

[SilverZero]

Bummer. I don't imagine it should be too long a wait before someone in the world ruins their V3 inadvertently and takes it apart for a YouTube vid. It would annoy me too to have buttons at different heights and the screen slightly askew. Even though it's not the end of the world, it's something I'd constantly notice. That would niggle for sure.

It is a bit annoying; I might try it at some point.

I actually just took a photo of it with my good camera and in the pic I can see a shiny lip where the top section comes into contact with the tube itself:

I might be able to grip that tiny lip and turn it with a pair of pliers or use a small screwdriver to kind of pry it up but I'm worried that I'll ruin the finish. It also might be both press-fit and glued in there, and if it is I'd need to heat it somehow to melt the glue without damaging the screen cover or the screen itself. We'll see, if I ever buy a new regulated mod I might decide that it's worth the risk. You can also see in that pic how the left side of the screen cover protrudes slightly, and the left button protrudes more than the right one.

 

[Trayce]

Is the right button "loose"? Or does it click exactly like the left? Because in the V2 disassembly once the PCB is removed those buttons just fell out. And your PCB def looks like it was installed at an angle...

And yes, I see that top lip and I think you are exactly right that that's the way in.

That would be very tempting and would probably eat at me until my need to preserve the Vamo's perfect condition got beaten back by my need to put that freaking PCB in there straight!

Knowing me, I'd probably decide to try it in stages.... like I'd first just see if I can carefully lift that top off without making a big deal of it. Like I might tape the tube with duct tape to protect it, leaving a tiny gap at that lip, then try putting a scalpel or something flat and thin and rigid in there and just easy my way around to see if there is ANY give or wiggle at all.

Results would determine how long I wait to try Step 2 and what that might be.

OTOH someone less OC might think it's handy to have one button higher, so you can always know which button you're touching without glancing or thinking about it twice.

 

[SilverZero]

Is the right button "loose"? Or does it click exactly like the left? Because in the V2 disassembly once the PCB is removed those buttons just fell out. And your PCB def looks like it was installed at an angle...

And yes, I see that top lip and I think you are exactly right that that's the way in.

That would be very tempting and would probably eat at me until my need to preserve the Vamo's perfect condition got beaten back by my need to put that freaking PCB in there straight!

Knowing me, I'd probably decide to try it in stages.... like I'd first just see if I can carefully lift that top off without making a big deal of it. Like I might tape the tube with duct tape to protect it, leaving a tiny gap at that lip, then try putting a scalpel or something flat and thin and rigid in there and just easy my way around to see if there is ANY give or wiggle at all.

Results would determine how long I wait to try Step 2 and what that might be.

OTOH someone less OC might think it's handy to have one button higher, so you can always know which button you're touching without glancing or thinking about it twice.

That's true lol. As to the button clicks, the right one makes an audible click but the left one doesn't. Neither button wiggles at all. And the board is definitely mounted crooked in the tube, if I look at the bottom of the control head where the positive battery connector is I can see that it's turned slightly.

I'm sure I'll try to open it up eventually, but it's working flawlessly at the moment and I don't want to screw it up. I'd rather have a working mod with a crooked PCB board than a broken one with a straight board. I am expecting delivery of my first mech mod and a Kick 2 tomorrow afternoon so if that works well I might start playing with my VAMO a little.

(That sounded wrong.)

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

I am expecting delivery of my first mech mod and a Kick 2 tomorrow afternoon so if that works well I might start playing with my VAMO a little.

Don't play with it too much or shake it more than 3 times...or you'll go blind

 

[Trayce]

That's true lol. As to the button clicks, the right one makes an audible click but the left one doesn't. Neither button wiggles at all. And the board is definitely mounted crooked in the tube, if I look at the bottom of the control head where the positive battery connector is I can see that it's turned slightly.

The angle must be putting tension on the buttons... particularly the right button that's reset. Otherwise you'd think it would feel looser since the PCB seems to be "further away" from it.

I'm sure I'll try to open it up eventually, but it's working flawlessly at the moment and I don't want to screw it up. I'd rather have a working mod with a crooked PCB board than a broken one with a straight board.

There's yer problem right there. I'd only think that AFTER I tried to fix it and screwed it up.

I am expecting delivery of my first mech mod and a Kick 2 tomorrow afternoon so if that works well I might start playing with my VAMO a little.

(That sounded wrong.)

I'm jealous now. My Vamo isn't even here and I have been eying mechanical mods thinking it would be nice to have as a backup... but would need a kick and safety fuse, and all that adds up, and I just spent way more than I intended to on the Vamo setup.

Which mech mod did you get?

PS If and when you take the V3 apart you need to make a YouTube vid. You're practically obligated. Your people need you.

 

[SilverZero]

The angle must be putting tension on the buttons... particularly the right button that's reset. Otherwise you'd think it would feel looser since the PCB seems to be "further away" from it.



There's yer problem right there. I'd only think that AFTER I tried to fix it and screwed it up.



I'm jealous now. My Vamo isn't even here and I have been eying mechanical mods thinking it would be nice to have as a backup... but would need a kick and safety fuse, and all that adds up, and I just spent way more than I intended to on the Vamo setup.

Which mech mod did you get?

PS If and when you take the V3 apart you need to make a YouTube vid. You're practically obligated. Your people need you.

If I ever figure out how to do it I'll definitely record a video for it. I'm sure knowing how will come in handy for people, especially as the V3's out there get older. I was messing around with it earlier trying to see if I could loosen the top section and didn't have any luck. I didn't try hard, but I was able to grip it and try wiggling it back and forth and twisting it slightly to see if I could get it to loosen but it didn't budge.

I ended up getting a good price on an EA mod in the classified forum from another ECF member. I had been wanting one for a while and saw his ad and snatched it up. I ordered the kick separately online and that should be here tomorrow as well along with some AW IMR's.

Oh, and if you use a Kick you don't need the safety fuse, the Kick provides all of the protection you need. If and when I decide to vape my EA without the Kick I'll definitely get a VapeSafe 2 first.

 

[Trayce]

If I ever figure out how to do it I'll definitely record a video for it. I'm sure knowing how will come in handy for people, especially as the V3's out there get older. I was messing around with it earlier trying to see if I could loosen the top section and didn't have any luck. I didn't try hard, but I was able to grip it and try wiggling it back and forth and twisting it slightly to see if I could get it to loosen but it didn't budge.

That's all I would have done too. Just sort of test it. So with that result it makes living with it easier as at least you know it isn't simple to get it apart. Back to the back burner.

I ended up getting a good price on an EA mod in the classified forum from another ECF member. I had been wanting one for a while and saw his ad and snatched it up. I ordered the kick separately online and that should be here tomorrow as well along with some AW IMR's.

Oh, and if you use a Kick you don't need the safety fuse, the Kick provides all of the protection you need. If and when I decide to vape my EA without the Kick I'll definitely get a VapeSafe 2 first.

GOOD TO KNOW! I didn't realize that. Budget's shot for now, but will keep that in mind. Let us know how you like the EA...

 

[jimbill]

Zilverzero you could try fixing it by turning the positive post sticking out from the bottom.First take off the battery tube then with a pair of needle nose pliers turn the post on the pcb until the button pops out this has worked on my vamo v2 but i am not sure it will fix the screen this might be worth a shot good luck.

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

Zilverzero you could try fixing it by turning the positive post sticking out from the bottom.First take off the battery tube then with a pair of needle nose pliers turn the post on the pcb until the button pops out this has worked on my vamo v2 but i am not sure it will fix the screen this might be worth a shot good luck.

PCB's are VERY fragile...it appears alot of the components are surface mounted...putting too much torque on that very thin fiber glass board would probably snap it or crack it busting traces...I advise against that

 

[SilverZero]

Zilverzero you could try fixing it by turning the positive post sticking out from the bottom.First take off the battery tube then with a pair of needle nose pliers turn the post on the pcb until the button pops out this has worked on my vamo v2 but i am not sure it will fix the screen this might be worth a shot good luck.

PCB's are VERY fragile...it appears alot of the components are surface mounted...putting too much torque on that very thin fiber glass board would probably snap it or crack it busting traces...I advise against that

Yeah, thanks for the suggestion jimbill, but I'm not willing to risk damaging the board. It's in there pretty tight.

I'm just going to deal with it for now and at some point I'll try to see if I can remove the top and get in there from above. That may happen sooner than later as over the last few days my VAMO has been replaced with my new mech mod as my go-to device at home.

 

[donesmokin]

I don't have a V3 so I'm just thinking out loud. Couldn't you screw the top cap on then do the Rino wiggle?

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

I don't have a V3 so I'm just thinking out loud. Couldn't you screw the top cap on then do the Rino wiggle?

Was thinking that too...only problem I see is perhaps over stressing the 510 connector...

Saw where a guy screwed a copper piece from Lowes on and eGo to give extra leverage...but I think the Vamo head is a bit better fit than a eGo head...

Mine is still going strong...don't wanna risk killin' it just to see

 

[Trayce]

[...] That may happen sooner than later as over the last few days my VAMO has been replaced with my new mech mod as my go-to device at home.

BRAGGART! So you like your Electronic Angel, huh? How's it compare to the V3 experience?

 

[SilverZero]

I don't have a V3 so I'm just thinking out loud. Couldn't you screw the top cap on then do the Rino wiggle?

I've tried and it hasn't budged at all. I tried screwing the decorative top ring on all the way and gripping that while turning and wiggling it, and I even tried attaching one of the extension tubes to the top for increased leverage and nothing. I haven't put a ton of force into it, but I don't want to damage it.

BRAGGART! So you like your Electronic Angel, huh? How's it compare to the V3 experience?

I like it a lot. I've been experimenting with building coils at around 1Ω and I can use them on the EA (the VAMO won't fire them). That's a bonus, and so is being able to flush mount my devices onto it which I can't do with the VAMO. That gap you get between the base of a tank and the top of the decorative ring on the VAMO bugs me a little.

I'm not one of those people who dislikes the swirls on the V3 but I have to say that the EA has a much cleaner look and feel to it. Here is is with my IGO-L dripper:

The build quality is a step above the VAMO for sure, when it's tightened down fully it's really solid. That's it in its longest possible configuration with an 18650 battery and a Kick inside. I'm planning to buy some 18350 batteries for it, with those you can completely eliminate that middle section and it looks a feels like one solid tube. Thumbs up from me so far.