Hey everyone, this is my first post and yes I am a total noob at this. I recently purchased the Vamo V3 and a few tanks from fasttech.com. I noticed that I was not able to vape with my other tanks that I had already. I installed the ones that came with the kit and it took a while before it finally "took" them. I then tried the new tanks that I got and it read them as 9.9. All three of them. They were bcc tanks so I changed the coil heads. One finally worked. But the other two still read 9.9. After awhile the second tank read 2.5. So I put in juice and put it back on and it read 0.0 - 0.2. What's going on? I really don't want to go through the whole hassle of sending it back and waiting and hoping the replacement works w/out a hitch. Oh by thw way the tanks were Protank clones. Thanks in advance.
- Status
9.9 means an open device. On a used device that would normally mean the coil has popped. But it this is happening with multiple new devices it more likely means your tanks aren't making contact with the 510 connector for some reason.
Welcome to the forum Betanmd.
Without being able to see and check the Vamo, it's hard to diagnose. But I would suggest it is a threading issue where the heads are not making contact with the battery post for some reason.
Do you have any other battery you can try the clearomizers on or any other clearos (that you know work) on the V3?
If not, I don't know what else to suggest to figure this out - but someone else might.
Without being able to see and check the Vamo, it's hard to diagnose. But I would suggest it is a threading issue where the heads are not making contact with the battery post for some reason.
Do you have any other battery you can try the clearomizers on or any other clearos (that you know work) on the V3?
If not, I don't know what else to suggest to figure this out - but someone else might.
Thank you both for your observations. My older tanks are eGO threaded as are the tanks that came with the kit. Would buying an extender, say a 510 to 510 or 510 to eGO work?
Something odd is going on. Reading 9.9 isn't uncommon, and can usually be fixed by pulling the contact post out just a tiny bit on the clearomizer so it makes better contact with the center pin on the vamo. But if it's reading it 9.9 one time, then 2.5, then 0.0-0.2 the next....I don't know, that sounds like an issue inside the vamo. It might be best to contact fasttech and explain to them that the device isn't working properly and get it exchanged for a new one.
As others have said, the tank is probably not making contact. At least thats the problem I have when mine reads 9.9Ω.
I dont have a v3, but try and pulling the center pin on the 510 connection. That usually helps with contact issues.
If you cant raise the pin on the vamo, try and pull the center pin out about 1mm on the pro tank.
Hopefully, this should fix your problems.
I dont have a v3, but try and pulling the center pin on the 510 connection. That usually helps with contact issues.
If you cant raise the pin on the vamo, try and pull the center pin out about 1mm on the pro tank.
Hopefully, this should fix your problems.
Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I will put the my Vamo through its paces with all the suggestions and win or lose I will update you all. Once again thanks for helping the noob...
That may be a wise choice. The problem with using eGo threaded clearos on the Vamo is you sometimes can unscrew the tank from its base when you're trying to get 'em off. Makes a huge mess. For my Vamo and SVD, I tend to stick to 510 threaded clearos so I don't have that kind of accident.
This could be a center post low ohms issue. Had this happen on mine where it would read the ohms either very low or high as it also seems to be in your case.
Check the center post, do you see the white o ring around it? is the center post pushed down with the sides of the oring coming up over the top and side of the post? The post should be above the white o-ring, if it's flush or below, it's making contact somewhere.
If so, you need to replace that o-ring, i had to do this the second day i had my vamo v3. There is already a post up here in the vamo sectionhttp://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vamo/375871-vamo-ohm-error-fix.html
Check the center post, do you see the white o ring around it? is the center post pushed down with the sides of the oring coming up over the top and side of the post? The post should be above the white o-ring, if it's flush or below, it's making contact somewhere.
If so, you need to replace that o-ring, i had to do this the second day i had my vamo v3. There is already a post up here in the vamo sectionhttp://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vamo/375871-vamo-ohm-error-fix.html
A 510 to eGo may help you diagnose what the problem is - it might correct an issue if the center post on the V3 is seated too low. A 510/510 won't work in this case as those type of tanks don't actually have any 510 threading in there on the center post.
They rely on the eGo outer threading to screw on, and just positive pressure of their center contact to the batter center post. Try placing a 510 extender into the end of these tanks and you'll see what I mean. Plop! - it just drops straight down inside. No 510 threads to grab onto.It is a very good idea to have a few adapters on hand for mods. Sometimes, my Protank heads will just not work on my Vamo or Zmax. I put an adapter on and boom.
I've found that the 510 threading seems to have less issues than the ego threading in my mods. Maybe I'm just noticing it more with the ego threaded
The main problem with the BCC's is that you really need to press the coil in place when you replace them. I've had times when it reads 9.9 or juice leaks from the bottom cause it's not pressed in firmly.
I just recoiled an EVOD/Protank head and had that problem with the resistance jumping around on my VAMO V3. 0.2, 0.1, 0.6, 0.0, etc. There was actually a short, i had left the leads a little too long and as soon as I screwed the head into the tank it shorted out.
Look at the EVOD head itself and see if you can find the two leads from the coil near the bottom of it; there should be one end of the wire just above the post and one on the other side of the rubber gasket. If you run your finger around the post on the replaceable head and you think that those wire ends are sticking out, see if you can cut them flush with the replaceable head with a pair of fingernail clippers.
I'm not sure if that's the issue (it could be a problem with your VAMO) but like I said I just had this problem and that seemed to fix it for me.
I had this problem and actually had to replace the O ring inside the vamo, it was a pain but ever since I put a more durable one in not a peep from it. I wish they would just make them with better rings to begin with.....
I'm thinking about changing mine proactively before I have a problem with it. It seems easy enough.
I had this happen with my zmax mini as well. I was afraid to mess around with raising the positive post on the zmax, but I have found that lowering the pin on the clearos gets them to read and fire properly. I'd rather risk messing up a $5 to $15 tank than a $90 mod. I always set my display to show ohms, rather than watts or voltage, so that I can monitor and adjust if necessary.
I just recently ordered a vamo v3 and ive been reading in the forms how the 510 thread connections are funky I put in a ticket with fasttech so they can check the qualty of the threads and they told me they always check before they ship them out. I wonder if its a specific kit that's having this problem I ordered the vamo v3 kit with the sony batteries and it shipped out in less than 16 hours
the o-ring replacement is easy enough, it's just a giant pain in the .... Ever since though it has worked great, not a single issue with it, about a month so far.
Again, being a noob, are there any step by step instructions/good videos on this? I say good because the ones I've viewed on youtube have not been the best quality in showing how to do this. Thank you everyone for your continued suggestions.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
