Vaping above 200w help
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No thats never happened....i mean none of us here have ever heard of it happening. or posted a link to LiPo's going off in the RC world....we have all posted spontaneous RC LiPo fire videos at one point or another
spontaneous lipo explosion - Google Search
We take safety, especially battery safety seriously here. On my home forum too, people get it drilled into them from the word go.
LiPo's can spontaneously combust just charging, so please, realise where we are coming from knowing that and then seeing you want to push the limits in a very obvious way, for really no good reason other than numbers - your vape will in no way improve at those numbers, so its obvious to all its about numbers to you, you've said as much yourself. If a battery *can* spontaneously go into thermal runaway just charging, then extrapolate what *could* happen if you stress it ....
Youre trying to fit your personal safety 3rd mantra into a safety first forum....
What I meant is it usually does not happen. And 18650 explode also. Doesn't mean you mod is gonna blow up. I can find examples of tons of freak accidents from 18650. Usually lipo will not blow up. I flew drones for years. I also raced 1/8th scale monster trucks. I was using 6s. And 2s respectively. In 10 years I never had a fire. This is worse than the news and corona. You can't base a belief off of a few examples of freak accidents. I feel like you guys just don't understand that a lipo is generally safe. Just like 18650 is generally safe. If you don't follow battery safety then you have an issue.
I just feel like you guys are afraid of lipo cause of a few fires. And etc. I'm sure there are 18650 that popped while charging. All my research said lipo is safer than li-ion. So yea I don't see the safety argument.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.howtogeek.com/338762/why-do-lithium-ion-batteries-explode/amp/
When Your Amazon Purchase Explodes
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2-300 watts is nothing for this mod. Stable at 1.21 Gigawatts
@Robert B
Steam Engine does not give specifics on how much power a coil can handle.
With the DNA 250C, 65 amps max is the limitation of the boards output at the coil. The output is also limited to 10 volts. And according to the specs the input current is limited to 32 amps.
If we look at the 32 amp input limit, with a 4S Lipo at 400 watts, the battery must be 14.2 volts or higher. Factor in voltage sag with a roughly 30 amp draw and you are not receiving much run time at 400 watts. This assumes a 90% efficiency – at the absolute limits of a DNA board we do not know it’s efficiency (it is not a static value).
With the max voltage output of 10 volts, plus the max current of 65 amps. To achieve 400 watts you are limited to resistances between 0.1 and 0.25 ohms (as @TrollDragon stated)
0.25 ohms at 400 watts hits that max voltage limit.
0.1 ohm at 400 watts hits that max current limit
Now that you have determined what resistance the coils should be to allow 400 watts based on the boards limitations, you are now challenged at finding the appropriate mass for such coils that will allow you to at least get one or 2 hits without burning your mouth. You have to increase your coil mass and by a great sum. But in doing so, you are also increasing the time it takes for that coil to cool down (and by a great sum) which means you must adjust your vape frequency and duration.
Ejuice begins to vaporize at roughly 350°F, and begins to develop a burnt taste at around 500°F along with developing formaldehyde. Power does not change these attributes, but if applied in a incorrect fashion, could easily exceed what is considered “safe” temperatures.
Steam Engine does not give specifics on how much power a coil can handle.
With the DNA 250C, 65 amps max is the limitation of the boards output at the coil. The output is also limited to 10 volts. And according to the specs the input current is limited to 32 amps.
If we look at the 32 amp input limit, with a 4S Lipo at 400 watts, the battery must be 14.2 volts or higher. Factor in voltage sag with a roughly 30 amp draw and you are not receiving much run time at 400 watts. This assumes a 90% efficiency – at the absolute limits of a DNA board we do not know it’s efficiency (it is not a static value).
With the max voltage output of 10 volts, plus the max current of 65 amps. To achieve 400 watts you are limited to resistances between 0.1 and 0.25 ohms (as @TrollDragon stated)
0.25 ohms at 400 watts hits that max voltage limit.
0.1 ohm at 400 watts hits that max current limit
Now that you have determined what resistance the coils should be to allow 400 watts based on the boards limitations, you are now challenged at finding the appropriate mass for such coils that will allow you to at least get one or 2 hits without burning your mouth. You have to increase your coil mass and by a great sum. But in doing so, you are also increasing the time it takes for that coil to cool down (and by a great sum) which means you must adjust your vape frequency and duration.
Ejuice begins to vaporize at roughly 350°F, and begins to develop a burnt taste at around 500°F along with developing formaldehyde. Power does not change these attributes, but if applied in a incorrect fashion, could easily exceed what is considered “safe” temperatures.
Finally a helpful post. Thank you. I am running a 4s lipo. So 16.8v fully charged and I don't run it below 15v. I had thought about doing tc, as i have both ss316l and ka1.
Generally I don't chain vape, and when I am gonna chain vape I run the aries at 175w. This is just for me to have some fun trying something different. But figuring out the mass has been my biggest issue. I either get the ohm right with low mass, or get the ohm wrong with good mass. Hitting that .1 to .25 is not easy at 400w. So far the closest was 3x24ga. But it ohmd out too low. .03 too low. So against what gauge wire should I try? I was thinking 18ga or 20ga. I'd Clapton it with 36ga.
Againe thank you for the informative post. I look forward to your reply.
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2nd thing
you made a thread before.Plus it seems asking how is a 370 watts build is useful is a bs comment lol
I didn't say you were stupid, i personally dont give a flying F about how you vape, but considering you haven't answered me i guess you can't either ?
Do not know how you figure out the mass to vape at 400 watts all while trying to keep to a specific resistance so that you can work within the limitations of the circuit. You are also working with the space limitations of the atomizer – it can only accept coils up to a certain size. And to add, said atomizer will also have its limits in air flow.
As mass scales up, everything else must also scale in order to accommodate. This means both power and air flow. More power is required to heat a coil of higher mass, but air flow must also increase in order to maintain a somewhat consistent temperature, otherwise temperature just rises in accordance with time based on the amount of applied power. There will be points of diminishing returns here given the limitations with what we are working with.
Given these limitations, perhaps it is not possible to achieve 400 watts with a 0.1 to 0.25 ohm coil all while trying to achieve a somewhat preferred temperature that can be humanly vaped.
It all has to do with the heat flux of the coil as far as Steam Engine is concerned.
The SE Wire Wizard doesn't calculate Clapton wraps properly, so you have to tick "Show results for all components" and use the core numbers.
I try to keep my builds around 250 - 300 Heat Flux, so I've done up this coil build around 300.
Keeping the resistance range in mind 9 wraps of 24ga N80 fused with 36ga N80 on 5mm gives you ~0.226Ω which is within the 250Cs boundary for any wattage. You can't fit all the info on a single screen so it's a snip of the key info.
Heat flux is a good indication of how cool or warm the coil will vape. I like a vape on the warm/hot side of things and 300 is a good starting point. So 300 (Target HF) / 0.91 mW/mm2 (Coil HF/W) gives roughly 330W required. If you find 300 too warm then 250/0.91 = 275W, these are just a starting point so you can fine tune the build to vape at what you enjoy.
If you like the Heat Flux at 250 but want to run it around 300W you will need to adjust the build so the HF/W on the coil ends up around 0.84 etc... It's a lot of trial and error, you can mix and match any wire type or build style in the Wire Wizard to get a "rough" approximation of how the coil should perform.
Ever taken a wheel off a car that has been parked Outside all it's life?
Sure, you can use that 14" Lug Wrench that came with the car. Doing your best Schwarzenegger intimation with that Big Bulging Vein in your forehead. With the Swearing and Manic Muttering.
Or you could put a 3 Foot piece of pipe over that Wrench, and Calmly remove them.
Ohms and Watts is kinda like that.
I really think that if you Tried some other Builds, that you would find that you Don't Need to run Multiple Triple Digit Wattage.
BTW - What type of Battery Life do you get using 250 Watts?
Using 250w I get almost 2 days. And I've used tons of builds. Everything from 50w single coil to 375 triple coil. I rebuild daily and have been doing that for about 8 months. Wattage I found sorta kills flavor above 200, but these builds are for clouds. I enjoy blowing a huge cloud especially the throat feel I get at 3mg.
I don't have anybody to show off to, so this is not about that. I just enjoy pushing things to their limits. And tbh my daily is a triple coil setup at 175w. But that's cause I haven't been able to come up with a decent 300+ watt build.
I appreciate the time you took to write this. Than you.
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I used to be the same way with my lungs. I used to smoke non-filtered cigarettes. 2-3 packs a day.
Some of the most impressive clouds I've seen was from a mod running right around 100w. It is not how much power you use, it's how to use the power you have efficiency. I've seen a custom built 2000w (not a typo, two thousand watts) mod be put to shame by that 100w build. After a point, adding more power really has diminishing returns and can add little or no positive effect on the overall vape experience.
I know I am speaking on def ears with this statement, but after you get through your "more power" rabbit hole you will very likely see what I mean. Then you can join in on the "search for the perfect equipment" rabbit hole that most of us end up in. Since the things like airflow, coil position, and proper build technique effect your cloud size (or flavor intensity) more than what number your mod has on the screen, it's inevitable for you to eventually get over the whole raw power thing.
I know I am speaking on def ears with this statement, but after you get through your "more power" rabbit hole you will very likely see what I mean. Then you can join in on the "search for the perfect equipment" rabbit hole that most of us end up in. Since the things like airflow, coil position, and proper build technique effect your cloud size (or flavor intensity) more than what number your mod has on the screen, it's inevitable for you to eventually get over the whole raw power thing.
The difference is that an RC car isn't right up against your face if the cell spews. Overstressed lithium cells turn into blow torches.
Watching thread to see how it turns out. The potential for disaster is on the high side of norms.
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