Vaping Ni80 metallic taste

[Riffeur]

I've been vaping for almost 10 months and wanna try to change from khantal to ni80. I bought a VGOD pro mech kit that comes with the rdta.Which is a clone that i bought for 30 dollars.My builder put dual coil pararel 24 g ni80 5 wraps and it taste like sucking a penny or metallic taste. The thing is my friend also put on the same exact coil as i am, when i tried his, it taste like heaven. I dont know what the reason is but can you guys give me any solution for this?
Battery lg h2
mod vgod pro mech (clone)
Rdta vgod rdta (clone)
0.11 ohms (around 90-110 watts)

 

[Topwater Elvis]

The metallic taste can come from a hot leg, coil not heating evenly, arching/too close to other metal, too tight wicking.

I'd suggest removing that coil & wrapping one that is in a safe range for the battery you're using.
.11 on a single battery mechanical is not safe & could easily become dangerous.
Considering the LG HG2 is a 20a CDR cell you are severely over stressing the battery, there are also fake LG hg 2's on the market that are lesser quality.
4.2v / .11Ω = 38.1a
4v / .11Ω = 36.3a
3.7v / .11Ω = 33.6a
3.2v /.11Ω =29a

 

[zoiDman]

I've been vaping for almost 10 months and wanna try to change from khantal to ni80. I bought a VGOD pro mech kit that comes with the rdta.Which is a clone that i bought for 30 dollars.My builder put dual coil pararel 24 g ni80 5 wraps and it taste like sucking a penny or metallic taste. The thing is my friend also put on the same exact coil as i am, when i tried his, it taste like heaven. I dont know what the reason is but can you guys give me any solution for this?
Battery lg h2
Mod vgod pro mech (clone)
Rdta vgod rdta (clone)
0.11 ohms (around 90-110 watts)

A 0.11 Ohms Build on a Single Battery Mech Mod is a Dangerously Low Ohm build for that (or Any 18650) Battery.

Voltage / Resistance = Amps

4.1 / .11 = 37.3 Amps

You are Drawing 37.3 Amps on a Battery that is Rated at 20 Amps.

You Should Not Be Using Anything Lower than 0.23 Ohms on a Mechanical Mod with a 20 Amp Battery.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

No, The vtc5 is a 20a CDR cell also.
The fully charged voltage of an 18650 is 4.2v, with a mechanical use 4.2v in amp calculation as a slight built in saftey factor.

The only true 30a CDR cells are LG HB series 1500mah.
It is never safe or a good idea to exceed any cells actual CDR.
4.2 /.12Ω = 35a
4v /.12 = 33.3a
3.7v / .12 = 30.8a

There are no, none, zip, zero 18650 batteries that have more than a true 30a CDR, those you mentioned (awt mxjo) are re wrap falsely rated / labeled.

Ni200 wire should only be used with a temperature control power device, not a mechanical.
Ultra low resistances & especially temp control type wire are best suited to regulated power devices with a functioning temp control mode.

I suggest you stop using the mechanical until you get a grasp on basic battery saftey & selection, ohms law, usage of differing wire types and wrapping coils.
What you're doing is dangerous for yourself & those around you.

 

[Asbestos4004]

Then how do you i achieve vaping safely around 0.12-0.15 ohms?

Just out of curiosity....why are you set on vaping at .12 - .15 ohms?

 

[suprtrkr]

I strongly recommend you raise the coil value quite a bit on a one-battery tube. In my opinion, .11Ω is far too low for a single battery. I personally never build below .3Ω on my tubes; and I don't recommend below .5Ω because you never know who's listening. That said, switch to SS316 wire and don't worry about tasting it ever again.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Like I said, Using a regulated power device, preferably 2 or more cell for battery life.
If you intend to use Ni or Ti wire, a regulated power device that has a properly functioning temp control mode for the various wire types.

 

[zoiDman]

I believe your advice is sound, and I too think Dr. f was being precautionary in his advice not to dry burn. I know this much first hand - when I dry burn a Nichrome 80 coil, I can taste something different, a more metallic taste, which to me is a good indication something's being released that wasn't before. And it's well established that some metals are released in vaping though small amounts, the same as happens in cookware. So does dry burning release more? I would have to study the research to see if any substantiates this, I don't recall any that do. I have read articles by chemists and metallurgists stating that the surface structure of a coil is definitely altered in dry burning, and If my memory is correct Dr. F mentioned this.

I think where things can get Muddled is in the way we use the term "Dry Burn".

Heating a Dry Coil to Clean it of residual contaminants can be anything from a 5W Pulsed Burn to a 60W Constant Power Angry Burn.

Heating a Coil until the Entire Coil in Bright Orange boarding on Yellow could be a Problem. But just because Boundary Layer of a Metal Allow may undergo a Physical Change, doesn't mean that this Change is now more harmful than before the change Occurred.

I think it is Prudent to limit Dry Burning to just as Red is Detected. Because All I'm trying to achieve is to Clean the Coil. And to see that it is Heating from the Center Out with No Hot Spots. And I can do this by seeing that the Center of the Coil is Turing Red while using Low Wattages.

So that's what I do.

 

[Asbestos4004]

to parrot Elvis, you don't want to be using ni200 on a mech. It's for TC only. NiChrome gives you the opportunity to add wraps without sacrificing ramp up time. You might want to add a few.

 

[zoiDman]

Then how do you i achieve vaping safely around 0.12-0.15 ohms?

For a Single Battery Mech Mod? You really Can't.

There is just a Limit as to how Low you can make a Build before you Exceed what a Single 18650 Battery can Safely Handle.

It's like wanting to Run you Clothes Dryer on a $2.49 pencil thin Extension Cord. You just Can't do it safely.

If you Want to go down into a 0.12 ~ .015 Range and then run it at 90+ watts, you should be Doing it on a Multiple Battery Regulate Mod.

 

[zoiDman]

Alright then gonna use my Therion 167 DNA 200 then, thanks for the advice!

Sounds like a Good Plan!

 

[zoiDman]

And it's fixed right? I think the real deal is dry burning and really heating it up breaks down some of the bonds and at some point increases the metals that are released in vaping. I'm a big Dr. F fan

To be Honest with you, I'm not sure where Popular Believe is on much of this.

I hold Dr. F in High Respect. And I applaud what He, an Many others (Including our own Kurt), for the work they have done. But the Statements that Dr. F made with respect Dry Burning were somewhat Questionable.

Everything that Dry Burning accomplishes can be done Without raising the Coil temp to "Cherry Red" or beyond. So... I would suggest to anyone that they Dry Burn at Low Voltages/Watts and stop when the Wire starts to turn Red.

I say this more as Precaution. And Not because I believe that Dry Burning has been Linked to any Increased Risk.

 

[David Wolf]

I think where things can get Muddled is in the way we use the term "Dry Burn".

Heating a Dry Coil to Clean it of residual contaminants can be anything from a 5W Pulsed Burn to a 60W Constant Power Angry Burn.

Heating a Coil until the Entire Coil in Bright Orange boarding on Yellow could be a Problem. But just because Boundary Layer of a Metal Allow may undergo a Physical Change, doesn't mean that this Change is now more harmful than before the change Occurred.

I think it is Prudent to limit Dry Burning to just as Red is Detected. Because All I'm trying to achieve is to Clean the Coil. And to see that it is Heating from the Center Out with No Hot Spots. And I can do this by seeing that the Center of the Coil is Turing Red while using Low Wattages.

So that's what I do.

That's pretty much the way I do it too, with Kanthal. I pulse it just enough to see the gunk vaporize off and the coil only starts to redden then let off and repeat until no more vapor and the coil is clean and still shiney. Seems prudent. Do that with Nichrome 80 though and I get a dull finish and poor taste afterwards, maybe because it heats too fast.

 

[zoiDman]

That's pretty much the way I do it too, with Kanthal. I pulse it just enough to see the gunk vaporize off and the coil only starts to redden then let off and repeat until no more vapor and the coil is clean and still shiney. Seems prudent. Do that with Nichrome 80 though and I get a dull finish and poor taste afterwards, maybe because it heats too fast.

I don't see a real Change in taste of Lightly Dry Burned NiChrome 80. But Taste is Very Subjective.

But I also Rinse Pre-Made NiChrome 80 Coils (or SS Pre-Made Coils) in Alcohol/Water. Or Wipe strand wire with Alcohol and then wet Paper Towel.

It is Very Rare that any Smoke comes off them when I do Dry Burn them. So the Rinsing/Wiping may have something to do with a Smaller Change in taste?

 

[David Wolf]

Yeah... I can Imagine that NiChrome 80 at 30 or 31ga heats up Very Fast.

Do you need to use such a Small Gauge? Or just Like the way it hits better?

In a Myjet pod rebuild I used a smaller gauge Nichrome 31 awg, 1.5 mm 7 wrap spaced to get the same build as the original Myjet pod which gives great flavor. Carried it over to my KF V3 mini clone to try to get that flavor, 1.5 mm didn't wick well there so went to 2mm, then went to 30awg, around 8 or 9W. I usually use 28awg kanthal in it at low power, around 10 W. for me 7 wraps 2mm spaced coils work well, I prefer them to the 2.5 and 3mm 26 to 28 awg kanthal coils I used to build.

 

[zoiDman]

In a Myjet pod rebuild I used a smaller gauge Nichrome 31 awg, 1.5 mm 7 wrap spaced to get the same build as the original Myjet pod which gives great flavor. Carried it over to my KF V3 mini clone to try to get that flavor, 1.5 mm didn't wick well there so went to 2mm, then went to 30awg, around 8 or 9W. I usually use 28awg kanthal in it at low power, around 10 W. for me 7 wraps 2mm spaced coils work well, I prefer them to the 2.5 and 3mm 26 to 28 awg kanthal coils I used to build.

Gotcha.

Next time you do some Vape shopping, you might pickup a Small Spool of 28ga NiChrome 80 and give it a Try.

 

[zoiDman]

Good idea, I got some 30awg SS in the mail I want to try at 2 mm 7 wrap spaced in a few days, never used SS before.

I used to use a lot of 28ga NiChrome. Then I got some 26ga by accident.

The 26ga seemed to give me Better Flavor for a given Ohm due to the Extra Wraps. And the Sweet Spot for watts was a Larger. It was also Easier to Work with build-wise.

 

[zoiDman]

What did you build that in? The deck on a KF V3 mini is pretty small.

For RTA's... Mainly Subtank/TopTank Minis, Serpent Mini's, and the SXK Wine RTA.

They are All 22mm. And All of them can do 3mm 26ga Coils no problem.

 

[zoiDman]

My KF V5 mini can handle that build but I think you're pushing it with that build on a subtank mini little RBA that's a lot of coil in a little can haha I know it's not hard with tight coils but I don't do those anymore, spaced coils deliver the flavor IMHO.

They Love it. Kinda the way a Well Tuned car likes a long stretch of Open Highway on a Sunny Day.

LOL

A STM with a 26ga 0.6 Ohm NiChrome 80 build is Campbell's Soup. Um Umm Good!

 

[David Wolf]

They Love it. Kinda the way a Well Tuned car likes a long stretch of Open Highway on a Sunny Day.

LOL

A STM with a 26ga 0.6 Ohm NiChrome 80 build is Campbell's Soup. Um Umm Good!

Haha I can hear the crackling from here