I use my hcigar cable for my vs200 and it does fluctuate very minutely, and at the last 5% or so it does its balancing where it's usually a lot lower then usual. I'm assuming this makes sense since my hcigar is similar when it reaches the end of its charge. And on the clicky button note, my vs200 has very nice clicky buttons. I hope that when I get my Reuleaux in 2 days that the buttons are close to the VS.
Vaporshark DNA200
- Thread starter KTMRider
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I have a Lavabox, Hcigar VT200, and a Hotcig DX200. I actually have 2 Hcigar VT200 due to an ordering snafu. I really like the VT200, just not sure if I want/need 2 of the same mods. Probably end up selling one of them and getting the Jaybo DNA200 mod that uses three 18650s. Decisions, decisions
Cheers,
Steve
Reply from VS:
I have spoken to the technicians regarding your questions. They stated that the data cable supplied with the DNA 200 is rated for 4 amps, and was specifically chosen as the cable to be included due to the special capabilities of the cable. They also stated that any other cable would need data transfer and be cabal be of charging past 2 amps in order to work with the same amount of performance.
I have spoken to the technicians regarding your questions. They stated that the data cable supplied with the DNA 200 is rated for 4 amps, and was specifically chosen as the cable to be included due to the special capabilities of the cable. They also stated that any other cable would need data transfer and be cabal be of charging past 2 amps in order to work with the same amount of performance.
My fire button is as clicky as my rdna40. I get the random lock about once a day.
If you speak to them see if you can get them to sell them seperately if you don't mind. I have already been in their ear about it but if a few more people asked they will probablly be more apt to do it.
Well it looks like I got VS Rob banned by suggesting he post outside of the supplier forum (sorry if you're reading this Rob I wasn't aware of that rule either).
He wrote a very detailed response but unfortunately I can't repost it due to forum rules. Basically it said that he's the lead technician for VS and while he can't give a specific reason for the device to stop charging at 100% with one cable and 94-98% with another, he could provide clarification on certain factors that might cause it.
Evolv specifically asked them to include a high quality cable to get as close to 2 amps as possible because the board is picky about cables. Supposedly the cable included with this and the vapor flask are rated at 4 amps (although I can't find any USB cables rated higher than 2.4a).
They ran the battery analyzer on 3 separate devices and 10.224 was the middle value. He's been running those settings for 3 months and it won't hit 100% 2-3 nights a week. Since no 2 packs are created equally they suggest running the test yourself for a more accurate value.
He wrote a very detailed response but unfortunately I can't repost it due to forum rules. Basically it said that he's the lead technician for VS and while he can't give a specific reason for the device to stop charging at 100% with one cable and 94-98% with another, he could provide clarification on certain factors that might cause it.
Evolv specifically asked them to include a high quality cable to get as close to 2 amps as possible because the board is picky about cables. Supposedly the cable included with this and the vapor flask are rated at 4 amps (although I can't find any USB cables rated higher than 2.4a).
They ran the battery analyzer on 3 separate devices and 10.224 was the middle value. He's been running those settings for 3 months and it won't hit 100% 2-3 nights a week. Since no 2 packs are created equally they suggest running the test yourself for a more accurate value.
I checked the back of my Samsung charger yesterday and it was actually 5.3v @ 2a. I tried a 5.0v charger with the VS data cable and now it stays at 1.96-1.99a without hitting 0.
However, I also changed the charging screen to show USB voltage and it was at 4.58v instead of 4.2 like the charge-only cables. With the 5.3v charger and data cable it was at 4.83-5.2v but constantly fluctuating amps to regulate the current.
Data cable
5v charger:
4.58v
1.82-1.99A (usually 1.96-1.99)
8.5-9w
5.3v charger:
4.83v (hits 5v briefly every 30-90sec)
1.5-1.95A (drops to 0a @ 5v)
8.0-9.5w/(0-4w @ 5v)
Charge-only cable
5v charger:
4.26v
1.3-1.4a
5.5-6w
5.3v charger:
4.31v
1.92-1.99a
8.5w
So it appears the charger shuts off above 5v, but the VS data cable allows it to reach those voltages with a 5v+ charger. The charge-only cables stay around 4.2v (I tested 2 with the exact same numbers), but only hits 1.3-1.4a with the 5.0v charger vs 1.99a with the 5.3v charger.
I think the reason for this is the short VS data cable is 20AWG rated at 2.4a while my old charge-only cables are probably 24-28AWG and only capable of 1.3-1.6a @ 5v due to more internal resistance, voltage drop and length. The 5.3v Samsung charger is compensating for that voltage drop by overloading the cable (pushing more current at lower voltage), causing it to stop charging early since the supply voltage must be greater than the battery voltage (see this link where he specifically mentions the 94% I was seeing USB Cable Resistance: Why your phone/tablet might be charging slow)
TL;DR - Use a 20AWG cable and 5.0v charger for best performance. A 5.3v charger will appear to be working, but actually charges slower with a 20AWG cable due to fluctuating current and may push 24-28AWG cables too hard causing it to stop charging early.
However, I also changed the charging screen to show USB voltage and it was at 4.58v instead of 4.2 like the charge-only cables. With the 5.3v charger and data cable it was at 4.83-5.2v but constantly fluctuating amps to regulate the current.
Data cable
5v charger:
4.58v
1.82-1.99A (usually 1.96-1.99)
8.5-9w
5.3v charger:
4.83v (hits 5v briefly every 30-90sec)
1.5-1.95A (drops to 0a @ 5v)
8.0-9.5w/(0-4w @ 5v)
Charge-only cable
5v charger:
4.26v
1.3-1.4a
5.5-6w
5.3v charger:
4.31v
1.92-1.99a
8.5w
So it appears the charger shuts off above 5v, but the VS data cable allows it to reach those voltages with a 5v+ charger. The charge-only cables stay around 4.2v (I tested 2 with the exact same numbers), but only hits 1.3-1.4a with the 5.0v charger vs 1.99a with the 5.3v charger.
I think the reason for this is the short VS data cable is 20AWG rated at 2.4a while my old charge-only cables are probably 24-28AWG and only capable of 1.3-1.6a @ 5v due to more internal resistance, voltage drop and length. The 5.3v Samsung charger is compensating for that voltage drop by overloading the cable (pushing more current at lower voltage), causing it to stop charging early since the supply voltage must be greater than the battery voltage (see this link where he specifically mentions the 94% I was seeing USB Cable Resistance: Why your phone/tablet might be charging slow)
TL;DR - Use a 20AWG cable and 5.0v charger for best performance. A 5.3v charger will appear to be working, but actually charges slower with a 20AWG cable due to fluctuating current and may push 24-28AWG cables too hard causing it to stop charging early.
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So Vaporshark has the DNA200 for $169 in the scratch and dent section. Doesn't say anything special about it, just the regular description. Anyone have any info on the shark they're listing in the S&D category? Warranty, paint issues etc.........
Black friday and cyber monday is next weekend. I'd wait for a new one then (and probably $160).
I sent mine in to get the fire button fixed last week. Still waiting
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Black friday and cyber monday is next weekend. I'd wait for a new one then (and probably $160).
I sent mine in to get the fire button fixed last week. Still waiting
I might grab another rDNA 40.
Im having problems with my fire button. Had bought at a local b+m. Should I take it there or try send it in myself
I would call vaporshark and tell them your situation. They took care of me very quickly and I got 1 day shipping for free to get the device to them. They may want you to bring it to the B&M but I would try to cut out the middle man first.
I might grab another rDNA 40.
I think the rDNA40 is the perfect size. The DNA40 is a bit small but great for running around town. The DNA200 is about the same size as my Cloupor Hana clone box so it's a bit larger than I would like.
I would try the B&M first. If they can exchange it, great. If not, call VS at 855-821-3669. VS has pretty good customer service.
Just had a serious problem with mine.
I was using the triton II tank with a new 0.4 ohm SS coil in temp control mode. All I could get was an incredibly hot vape. Even with the temp set as low as 320F. Mod was in temp control mode and was stepping down the power.
Thought this was a problem with the new coil so switched to my crown tank with the Ni coil. Swapped to the my normal crown profile, and got the worst vape I've ever had, incrediby hot vapour and liquid followed by a massive dry hit. It was so hot I've burnt the inside of my lip on the drip tip and the inside of my mouth from the spitting liquid.
I Dropped the temperature and checked it in device manager, which showed it to be controlling at the set temperature, and dropping the power as you would expect. However the actual temperature was way hotter the the set temperature. Also tried my tfv4 mini and go the same result.
After a soft reboot and it is now working fine again, so not sure what the issue was, may be one of incident, but I certainly don't want a repeat of this. I'm also wary of using it at high watts again.
Any one else had a similar issue or know what may have caused this?
I was using the triton II tank with a new 0.4 ohm SS coil in temp control mode. All I could get was an incredibly hot vape. Even with the temp set as low as 320F. Mod was in temp control mode and was stepping down the power.
Thought this was a problem with the new coil so switched to my crown tank with the Ni coil. Swapped to the my normal crown profile, and got the worst vape I've ever had, incrediby hot vapour and liquid followed by a massive dry hit. It was so hot I've burnt the inside of my lip on the drip tip and the inside of my mouth from the spitting liquid.
I Dropped the temperature and checked it in device manager, which showed it to be controlling at the set temperature, and dropping the power as you would expect. However the actual temperature was way hotter the the set temperature. Also tried my tfv4 mini and go the same result.
After a soft reboot and it is now working fine again, so not sure what the issue was, may be one of incident, but I certainly don't want a repeat of this. I'm also wary of using it at high watts again.
Any one else had a similar issue or know what may have caused this?
I got my DNA200 back yesterday and the board was replaced. I ordered a sharkskin from SweetVapes.com. It looks like they changed the material used for their sharkskins. It has more texture than the old skins which is a good thing.
Done a few more tests and it seems like the dna200 is reading the wrong base resistance.
I checked the resistance against my IPV and got the following results:
Triton 2, 0.4 ohm SS coil, IPV 0.404 ohm, VS 0.426 ohm
Crown uwell, 0.15 Ni coil, IPV 0.151 ohm, VS 0.165 ohm
Sunbtank mini, 0.15 Ni coil IPV 0.152 ohm, VS 0.162 ohm
Temp control still works ok with nickel coils but is hotter than it should be. with stainless steel coils it's hopeless. Base resistance also seems to creep up over time resulting in the mod under reading the temperature and not regulating power early enough. I was under the impression that it wasn't necessay to lock in the resistance with the DNA200 board, but maybe this is necessary especially for stainless coils. Other option would be to override the resistance in Escribe, but not sure if this is a good idea.
I checked the resistance against my IPV and got the following results:
Triton 2, 0.4 ohm SS coil, IPV 0.404 ohm, VS 0.426 ohm
Crown uwell, 0.15 Ni coil, IPV 0.151 ohm, VS 0.165 ohm
Sunbtank mini, 0.15 Ni coil IPV 0.152 ohm, VS 0.162 ohm
Temp control still works ok with nickel coils but is hotter than it should be. with stainless steel coils it's hopeless. Base resistance also seems to creep up over time resulting in the mod under reading the temperature and not regulating power early enough. I was under the impression that it wasn't necessay to lock in the resistance with the DNA200 board, but maybe this is necessary especially for stainless coils. Other option would be to override the resistance in Escribe, but not sure if this is a good idea.
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