Veteran vaper trying first rebuild. It's not working out. Help!

[Cicatrize]

Although I've been vaping for almost 6 years, I'm finally getting into trying to rebuild my atomizers, mainly because the cost of the subtank heads are $5 at my local shop, which is drawing the line for me, but also because I want to create my own. First, here's the stats:

- istick 30W
- Kanger SubTank Mini
- Rebuilding OCC heads (trying to) with:

- Kanthal A1 26ga
- Organic cotton sheets
- Aiming for 0.7 - 1 ohm​

I've watched ALL of the videos below on how to do this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6w2p09Iu11U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCqNcKZAZjM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLO7SEDrcNo

All very informative, and all very successful. I followed all the instructions, except for the torch burn, because I don't have a torch. Here's what happens:

1. I wrap the coil around either a 2.4mm screwdriver or a 3mm bit I have (tried both several times)
2. 2.4mm gets 6/5, 3mm gets 5/4.
3. I place it into the head as shown in the video, get the leads down, put it on my mod.
4. Mod reads 0.9 for the 2.4mm and 1.0 for the 3mm. Perfect.
5. I dry burn "pulse" it a few times to get crud off. While doing this, I notice it takes a while for it to light up, and also to stop being lit after I release the button. Note: I am not holding it down for a long time. I know the leads can burn the insulator.
6. I remove it from my mod and cut a strip of organic cotton, maybe about 4mm in width.
7. I twist the end of the cotton, and push through the hole, through the coil, and out the other side of the OCC. I keep pulling until I get about 4mm through, then the cotton is STUCK. If I pull anymore, the cotton rips and I have to try again, usually with a REALLY small strip of cotton.
8. When I finally have it built, I wick it, fill my juice, and vape.
9. As observed before, it takes a while for the hit to happen, and when I release the button, it keeps burning for a second or two.


Any ideas as to what I may be doing wrong? I'm specifically worried about steps 5, 7, and 9. The cotton ripping is extremely frustrating, as everyone else seems to do this with ease. The flavor is just OK, and the overall experience is TERRIBLE compared to the stock OCC head.

Here are my supplies:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JTGYS40/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NU3H3KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[twgbonehead]

For one, sounds like you're using too much cotton, and therefore not getting enough juice onto the coil?

ETA: If you have a gas stove you can torch the wire using that.

 

[Cicatrize]

For one, sounds like you're using too much cotton, and therefore not getting enough juice onto the coil?

ETA: If you have a gas stove you can torch the wire using that.

I initially thought that, but I re-watched the videos, and it seems clear I'm using less cotton than they are, yet they have no issues sliding theirs through. I don't get a burned taste or anything, so the wicking seems fine.

 

[Ablonz]

As for #5 I would not do that personally, get a small torch or something similar. As for the cotton #7, are you cutting it lengthwise because if you cut it sideways will be more easily ripped apart. As for #9, mine is like that on my mech mod and every ones that I have seen personally which is why it goes thru more ejuice...

 

[Cicatrize]

As for #5 I would not do that personally, get a small torch or something similar. As for the cotton #7, are you cutting it lengthwise because if you cut it sideways will be more easily ripped apart. As for #9, mine is like that on my mech mod and every ones that I have seen personally which is why it goes thru more ejuice...

Oh my, lol. The little things! I didn't even think that cutting it a certain way would affect it, because I assumed it was all jumbled in there like a cotton ball. I will try to cut it from the long side next. I am cutting the shorter end. I'm not sure that will help the problem where it feels like it's stuck, but I'll definitely give it a shot.

What kind of torch are people using? Like the little butane ones for crafting?

 

[twgbonehead]

There are lots of butane torches around, but you can also use what the call a "Jet" cigarette lighter - you can get these at most places that sell cigarettes. (I got one at CVS back when they still sold that kind of stuff). They are usually refillable, and you can pick one up for usually $5 or less. Look for a lighter with a ring of tiny holes around the center where the flame comes out.

 

[Ablonz]

Yes, the little butane ones will work. You should be able to get them at your local hardware store. I personally haven't used them since I use my Mech mod for coil building and can do the dry firing and such. I should go get one though and try to rebuild the OCC one just to get the experience.

 

[Cicatrize]

Yes, the little butane ones will work. You should be able to get them at your local hardware store. I personally haven't used them since I use my Mech mod for coil building and can do the dry firing and such. I should go get one though and try to rebuild the OCC one just to get the experience.

What's the point of torching it? I thought it was to clean it.

 

[Haadkoe]

This vid might be of some assistance:
http://youtu.be/iZcY7539wRM

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

regarding your #9: you say that it takes a while to get your hit, you are making your coils 2.4 or 3mm id, it will take a while for that heat to penetrate the wick, you would be far better and no doubt get better flavour and faster hit with less of the continuous heating that youve been experiencing after letting go of the fire button if you go with 1/16 id (1.5mm id).
Or even 2mm id at most but get your coil really close to the air inlet and you will get good flavour, but having smaller id coils wont allow you to hold onto the fire button as before so untill you get used to it dont go burning that wick

 

[Ablonz]

Dry firing is to clean it, it also heats up the coil to help form it (becomes more pliable)as well. On a mech mod, with dry fire its the same as torching but connected to the mod so no need to use torch. Doing the same thing, heating up the coil. The reason you don't want to do #5 is so you do not melt the insulator that can create a short and ruin your mod. With Haadkoe's video that he posted above, notice he cuts against the grain and at about 4:20 mins into the video when he starts to wick the coil and begins to pull back and forth, it seems as the cotton is stuck but I could be wrong. As Slippery eel mention above #9 having a bigger inside diameter would affect that. Thanks Slip, I forgot about that.

 

[Danrogers]

If you are new to rebuilding Mini Protank Coils give this thread a read, it is well worth the effort it will take to read all 230 pages. These guys know what they are doing when it comes to building coils I guarantee!




http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html

 

[Cicatrize]

After some major frustration with the OCC rebuilds, I actually tried to build a coil for the RBA deck that comes with the SubTank Mini, and that was highly successful. I used a 2.4mm id and cut the cotton length-wise, WITH the grain (thanks for that - it works MUCH better). The thing fires up instantly and drops off quickly, and it hits well. The flavor isn't AS GOOD as the OCC, but it's pretty darn close.

I have no idea why the OCC rebuilds don't work as well, but I assume it has to do with the insulator and having longer legs.

 

[93gc40]

What's the point of torching it? I thought it was to clean it.

It is.. And any clean flame will work. Torching is a hold-over from rebuilding coilheads with rubber insulators and coils made from very thin wire. Pre annealing thin wire can make it a little easier to work with (remove springiness) and you can't dry burn with a rubber insulator. Is NOT needed for most builds these days, as we are building with pretty thick wires..