I'm not worried about the wick touching the slots. I'm winding the coil over the sleeve, so the coil does not touch the ss mesh wick.
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I'm not worried about the wick touching the slots. I'm winding the coil over the sleeve, so the coil does not touch the ss mesh wick.
im having serious flooding issues i forgot to dry burn after i cleaned it to other day and it flooding like crazy what can i do to stop this...shuld i clean it up and wait for it to dry then dry burn a few times?is that what ur supposed to do anyhow evertime i clean em i just rince wait to dry pop back in and vape and its a horrible vape hardley no vapor
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Sounds like you overfilled or your wick isn't large enough to keep your juice from entering the center atomizer chamber through the slots.
I made another mesh wick last night. Well, I modified a wick I made previously but could never keep from shorting out on the coil. Using an idea I shamelessly stole while browsing random forums, I took a braided ceramic sleeve out of an old carto's guts and cut it down to fit inside the Vivi head. The sleeve is to keep the wick from shorting out the coil. I think I read about it in one of Scubabatdan's posts. I slid the trimmed sleeve onto the wick, centered it, wrapped as much 34awg kanthol as I could on it, and jammed it into the slots. ( I was drinking at the time, which usually leads to an interesting combo of creativity, force, and cursing..."Get the f#$% in there, you piece of @&*%, I know this'un'll work!") I ended up with a 3.6ohm coil, and at 5.8 volts is producing huge clouds of smooth, clean-tasting, warm vapor. I have gone through half a tank with zero bad draws, zero off flavor hits. I can chain vape until the top cap of the Vivi gets very warm.
I hope I can duplicate thisI'll double up the legs and lower the resistance a bit, or try it with some 32awg. With the sleeve trick, one shouldn't have to oxidize the mesh wick at all, just boil it and torch it to get it clean. This should make it more flexible, too.
when the sturm gtank cam out a while back ppl were using the ceramic mesh tube and fiberglass mesh tube to insulate the ss mesh wick where the coil goes the same way as the cigarette paper trick. scubabatdan himself even played with it i think in the scubagen and others.
HOWEVER, i would double check your material - the woven mesh tube from a carto is often not even fiberglass and if you take a lighter or torch to it it will just burn right up. when used on a wick though it could work just fine as long as it doesn't get dry.
i used to smoke menthol and forever was hard core menthol in everything vapor just like that
but last couple months or so i just cant hardly stand the stuff at all... guess after twenty odd years of menthol this and that my taste decided it had enough
i dont understand how to wrap the nr to the resistant wire do u just twist it together in the middle were u wrap the coils and the legs wuld be the resistant wires?i tried that and did not work...ive tried just useing kathanal and works fine just not a great vape so how do i twist the nr and the r wire together do i twist the 2 together into 1 piece and use that for the wraps and the legs
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That would work, some have soldered it but I have never had any luck getting the solder to stick to the R wire.
*(without going out and buying special solder)
i dont no what im doing wront it works with out the nr wire but dont vape right and i cant get it to work using both nr and r
I wish I could help you more. I don't use the nr wire. I'm sure someone will come along that can help better than I did. Sorry.
Cross the nr and r wire so they form a small X sya a 1/2 inch or so.. Twist the ends together. Now take that wisted end and fold it down next to the nr wire. Wrap the nr wire around those twisted ends. Your done. You now have a fat part of the wire in a small vivi head. I have found that they want to stay straight, each one touching the side. Well one's going to the outside of the gasket so it's ok. The other one should be brought around to the same side but attatching in the inner part of the gasket, next to the center post. This should bring it off the side where the fat part of the wire was touching before. . You don't want to pull those wires too hard. You may end up making the ends of the coil too tight. It's trial and error but make sure the wick is wet. It can take several minutes before your vape is what you want.
On a side not, the Phoenix bottom coil (terrific!) carts use the same method, a gasket with lead wires attatching to the inner and outer parts, and they use a ceramic cup. Might try that cup for my vivi.
On a side not, the Phoenix bottom coil (terrific!) carts use the same method, a gasket with lead wires attatching to the inner and outer parts, and they use a ceramic cup. Might try that cup for my vivi.
I wrapped two bent in half strands of stripped speaker wire down both tails of the coil, wrapped around the wick itself, and that seemed to work very well for me in terms of avoiding the burning rubber taste. After giving the kanthal some break in time, vapor production and flavor is as it would be expected.
Well gang I can now say that a 2.2 ohm dual coil is possible.
Vapes like a fright train,,,,,,,,,,
Vapes like a fright train,,,,,,,,,,
Wow, I never even thought of using anything else for the cup and attaching the threaded portion of the head to it. That's a neat idea, I may buy some blocks of delrin and try out the same thing.
That way the coil won't short out if it touches the sides.
And it is large enough to hold the extra/long coil
And it is large enough to hold the extra/long coil
Yeah, that's awesome. Out of curiosity, did you use the original silicone cap on the stone head, or one from a different clearo?
@ 5 volts it sounds like a bowl of rice krispies. (cool beans)
But that is a bit to much for me so I'm at 4.5v.
Kinda flat at 3.7 and I get an E-sumpen warning at 6v on the ProVari.
But that is a bit to much for me so I'm at 4.5v.
Kinda flat at 3.7 and I get an E-sumpen warning at 6v on the ProVari.
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