Vivi Nova Rebuild tutorial

[xMackx]

I took one for the team and destroyed a V3 replacement unit to see how much trouble it was to get the wires out of the cup. Turned out to be a breeze, pulled straight out once I cut the ground and power wires and straightened them so it will be possible for the experts to recoil the ceramic cup with a little ingenuity.

Someone with more knowledge than myself should be able to figure a way to fuse the resistance wire to the none resistance wire like some of the coils I've seen. I know my spot welder is way too much but maybe something like a six or twelve volt battery charger and a switch to toggle it on/off rapidly.

Errol

Everything I have seen so far it seems that silver solder is what I have seen safe to use for vaping electronics. Got to be careful with solder as some can contain lead.

 

[gdeal]

I tried every combination possible, loose coil, tight coil, tiny wick. My epiphany came when I realized my coils with larger spaces between wraps gave me the singed cotton flavor and my tight compact coil tasted clean. After drilling the slot wider so they can't choke the wick the coil choking the wick wasn't a possible threat anymore. Anyone else come to a similar conclusion?

Thanks to all of you previous modders for my inspiration in fixing my problem. My cotton and kanthal taste even cleaner than the stock silica head.

Yes, same conclusion.

If you can supply enough ejuice, I would agree that tightly spaced coils creates a more efficient and consistent heat zone for thermal transfer.

 

[xMackx]

It's not done yet, I figured I'd draw something up so I have something easy to show mods on.

 

[fooey]

hi guys i have a question. i bought me a roll of kanthal 32g and made a couple of 2ohm coils using a 2mm screw with cotton wicks. the problem i am having is that when i use the new modified head on my vivi nova v2 3.5ml, i get a lot of dry hits randomly and especially if i put my pv down for 10 mins, the first hit will be a dry nasty hit. the coil is firing up fine, all the waps are glowing properly. i even swapped wicks a few times thinking it might be too thin or thick. so i took the head out and put it in my mini vivi nova, and zero dry hits. i cant figure this one out. btw the dry hits taste like how kanthal smells when fired up without a wick. also whatever the problem is, its turning my eliquid dark yellow very quickly. anyone experienced something similar or am i doing something wrong

 

[xMackx]

hi guys i have a question. i bought me a roll of kanthal 32g and made a couple of 2ohm coils using a 2mm screw with cotton wicks. the problem i am having is that when i use the new modified head on my vivi nova v2 3.5ml, i get a lot of dry hits randomly and especially if i put my pv down for 10 mins, the first hit will be a dry nasty hit. the coil is firing up fine, all the waps are glowing properly. i even swapped wicks a few times thinking it might be too thin or thick. so i took the head out and put it in my mini vivi nova, and zero dry hits. i cant figure this one out. btw the dry hits taste like how kanthal smells when fired up without a wick. also whatever the problem is, its turning my eliquid dark yellow very quickly. anyone experienced something similar or am i doing something wrong

I bet your wick is getting choked by the slots, 99 percent of my problems was those tiny slots. Read what I wrote the page before this one.

 

[xMackx]

I made some measurements for the most important aspects of converting to cotton so anyone can repeat it.

Just the other day I put a brand new atomizer head (silica wick) and it tasted horrible. Cotton is the most finicky wick to learn to make, but the clean and great flavor is more than worth it and if you follow my measurements you shouldn't have a problem.

 

[MISTer E]

Gdeal said: Whoa that looks like a 7mm high coil compare to the vivi head! Did the cap even fit on top of it? BJ has some crafty coiling techniques, I cant come close...

It was a model only. The metal cup had full contact karate moves all over it.

That DenTek technique is thinking out of the box.

xMackx said: Also make sure you don't drill/grind the original slot any deeper ( If you do it makes the coil closer to the grommets).

Exellent images & tutorial. I remember learning that one the hard way. [drill crazy] & your above advice shall help many, I am sure.





Errol, I took my stone cup & soaked it in alcohol. Acetone/nail polish remover would likely have been better as alcohol took about a 5 minute soak to loosen the wires & the tube from the ceramic. It still had the silicone?/clear glue adhisive they use & acetone likely would have removed that easier. I was going drilling anyway. The channels cracked in the process but it may be still usable.





luckyjai, I agree with xMackx. If It gets dry it on the first vape after sitting it may be getting choked.

 

[fooey]

Ill try again with a thinner wick but it's going to be very loose in the coil even after break-in, would that work fine?

 

[xMackx]

Luckyjai, I take it you may not have tools to modify the slots. So I made some measurements for anyone in the same position wanting to go with cotton. After cutting to the dimensions below, wrap a tight coil with very little space between wraps. If you can i still recommend modifying the slots but this method will work in a pinch.

 

[Errol]

Errol, I took my stone cup & soaked it in alcohol. Acetone/nail polish remover would likely have been better as alcohol took about a 5 minute soak to loosen the wires & the tube from the ceramic. It still had the silicone?/clear glue adhisive they use & acetone likely would have removed that easier. I was going drilling anyway. The channels cracked in the process but it may be still usable.

Hope you have better luck on your next try with the stone cup. Looking forward to your finished product.

Personally I'm having such good luck with the stock V2/V3 Stone that I don't anticipate any changes other than cleaning and a dry burn.

Errol

 

[Dirty]

Going all the way back to P 15 Regarding BJ43 's post on twisting the legs as an alternative to using non-resistance wire to prevent the plastic cap from burning...where do you attach the legs to to complete the process? As per the OP I've been sliding the gasket through one of them and keeping the other (negative) on the outside of the gasket, then placing the centre pin in to hold the positive wire. This worked fine when I wasn't doubling up (though I was getting some bad tastes...assuming the gasket was burning).

My multimeter is giving me 0.5 readings so there's a short somewhere or else I'm not connecting the legs to the right place. I'm not clear where the twisted double legs need to be "grounded" to create a positive and negative.

If I was correct in pulling them through the gasket...well first it's a very tight fit since the wire is doubled up and twisted, but still manageable. Nonetheless I'm not getting a decent ohm reading. I'm attempting 6-7 wraps to try and get at least 2.4 ohms so I can get some higher heat vape without burning - if the problem was not in the grounding of the legs then it could be my wrap - since the fit is very tight as I'm using the vivi mini's (not sure if the cup is the same size as the regular nova, I'm assuming it's smaller which is too bad because you can't get as many wraps)

To sum up my questions
1) If doing the twisted double where do you ground the legs?
2) Is it possible to get 6-7 wraps or 2.4ohms on the mini vivi?
3) should I try with the 38 gauge since it's higher resistance with less wrap

I'm working with...
1) 32 gauge kanthal (I also have 38 by accident, but I've never tried it as I heard it would make too many hot spots)
2) #1 cotton wick
3) Ego twist battery (must be very careful with the shorts)

All I'm looking for
As BJ43 said.....

I hesitate to give advice and everyone should understand that everyone has different likes. I need loads of vaper. A good vaper volume for me is when I have to exhale twice to empty my lungs from one inhale. So if your not looking for monster vaper forget the over wick, many wraps, and higher voltage.

Overwick check (noticed nice difference when I tried it on the stock 2.8 - until I went over the 4 volts mark and scorched something)
many wraps - struggling to make a coil over 2ohms
higher voltage - I wish I could get there

I know this thread evolved into some next level stuff with super ss/bamboo/cotton hybrid combos - and I'm kicking it old school by asking about threads from uh... 2 months ago (which is like 2 years in vape time). Hoping someone could help me out with the basics and achieve the kind of set-up as quoted by BJ43 above.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[gdeal]

To sum up my questions
1) If doing the twisted double where do you ground the legs?
2) Is it possible to get 6-7 wraps or 2.4ohms on the mini vivi?
3) should I try with the 38 gauge since it's higher resistance with less wrap

Dirty

1) The basic overall process is outlined fairly well in the first post by urquidezj

Here is a direct link to his photo of placement for legs. NR wire or Twisted. No difference in placement technique.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/urquidezj/IMAG0984.jpg

2) Yes for both. Ohms will depend upon wire gauge and wire length. If you want to measure your wire before coiling, this calc application is great: PV Web Apps

3) 38 is a bit thin, 32 should get you a 5/6 wrap coil at ~2.4, if your wick is about 2.5 to 3mm in diameter. (Using the calc application above...)

A good technique is to measure your wire before you cut it. Mark the spots, test for an ohm reading, then add wire lenght on both sides of the marked spots for the twisted legs portion. Remember to double this extra length because you are doubling your wire in the twisted portion. After you cut the wire and twist the legs, retest for ohms before you coil. Your reading should be around the same resistance once you coil.

 

[MISTer E]

Errol said

Hope you have better luck on your next try with the stone cup. Looking forward to your finished product.

I have found the mother of all 510 cups! & it seats the V3 Stone ceramic head!

1.99 ohms worth of 28 Kanthal A1

Here is a mother "510 to ego" adapter, just after birthing a (tiny in comparison) Whole E Grail ceramic set up. *Crack was also on the other side.

The big fish that got away? Partially sorta

The end of its tail goes like this... It was too tall for the ViVi's tank!

I test vaped it quickly on a franken'atom'thingy & decided to rebuild with 32 (because 28 drains my egos way too quick.).

Sadly the ceramic broke in half in the process




My big fish story is true!, even if it was a partial sorta flop(this time around)

Maybe next time

 

[gdeal]

MISTer E

I know that your fish story is a work in progress. But..

Can you let us know how you attached your 28g legs?

Any thoughts on how to enclose that ego adapter/ceramic cup combo?

 

[MikeE3]

MISRer E,

You're amazing and your photography/graphical arts are amazing. I didn't even realize it didn't work until the 3rd time I scrolled through and actually read the words.

{ any chance an E2 Apollo top cap would fit over the VN tank? }

 

[MISTer E]

Gdeal MikeE3 & all

I did not want to destroy a precious grommet, so I did no twisting to the legs & ran them straight(same style as s vivi rebuild).

I knew going into the endeavor it was going to be only used for a warm up & a couple of clouds with the 28 (I did hope to pull lots of clouds with the 32 but the V3 ceramic broke in half.) I am pretty sure I used a semi-clear silicone looking type grommet(not vivi type rubber) & did not notice a burn/melt, but I must stress it saw little use.

The frankenthingy contraption I used was the bottom reverse of BJ43s SRT mod(apollo & srt parts.)

[*Apollo has same threads as big part of ego adapter]

I know that your fish story is a work in progress.

If you got the parts assemble!, its not "my work only" I am sidetrackedly working hard on another top secret (soon to be released) project & have not even ordered a replacement V3 cup yet. Everyone here likely has a battery that can deal with 28 awg much better than me too.

any chance an E2 Apollo top cap would fit over the VN tank?

As far as
VN is too small in diameter.(I used the above)

 

[Errol]

Gdeal MikeE3 & all

I did not want to destroy a precious grommet, so I did no twisting to the legs & ran them straight(same style as s vivi rebuild).

I knew going into the endeavor it was going to be only used for a warm up & a couple of clouds with the 28 (I did hope to pull lots of clouds with the 32 but the V3 ceramic broke in half.) I am pretty sure I used a semi-clear silicone looking type grommet(not vivi type rubber) & did not notice a burn/melt, but I must stress it saw little use.

The frankenthingy contraption I used was the bottom reverse of BJ43s SRT mod(apollo & srt parts.)

[*Apollo has same threads as big part of ego adapter]

If you got the parts assemble!, its not "my work only" I am sidetrackedly working hard on another top secret (soon to be released) project & have not even ordered a replacement V3 cup yet. Everyone here likely has a battery that can deal with 28 awg much better than me too.

Beautiful work Mister! Looking forward to your next top secret weapon.

Errol

 

[Iffy]

Disregard... wrong thread

 

[aquaphx]

once twisted, twist the remainder of the nr wire onto the part you twisted first

cut excess off and get your two wick together and wrap around it leaving the two "twist knots" of wire at the ends, you wont need a paper clip this wick holds straight pretty good.

i don't get this part. how do u insert the wick ?
err prob my english understanding not so good.

oh, btw, is the khantal need to be burn/oxidized ?
if i use a lighter to burn it, is it okay?

 

[Errol]

i don't get this part. how do u insert the wick ?

There is a detailed tutorial on the first page of this thread.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ystems/295410-vivi-nova-rebuild-tutorial.html

oh, btw, is the khantal need to be burn/oxidized ?
if i use a lighter to burn it, is it okay?

Burning it with a cigarette lighter is a good idea if for nothing else than to just clean it. Some say it makes it easier to work with.

Errol