I have found a couple charts to figure out how many volts you can use compared to the ohms of your coil, inside the chart where the color blocks are ,is that the safe power settings? And across the top Is the safe voltage settings correct ?
Voltage / watts
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What I can't figure out is how people are successfully using higher wattage or voltage when vaping. For example, someone cranking it up to 10 watts with a 1.8 ohm coil. Is it even safe to do that?
I saw that same chart when I got my vv/vw battery a few weeks ago. I was thinking that I could crank up the volts and get a super vape compared to the evod battery I was using. All I got was a burnt, nasty taste and had to put a new coil in to get rid of it.
Since then I've been keeping the voltage low (3.3 to 3.4) and start with about 6 watts. I get the best flavor at lower wattage and increase only in small increments. The noticeable difference over the evod battery is that the MVP provides a constant, consistent power level all day, for days on end. More pg (and nic) in my liquid gave me the stronger hit, not the battery. The chart was a good starting point but it seems that the coil can only heat as much or little juice as the tank and wick can provide. Too much power with too little juice equals burnt, dry hits. I still have a lot to learn!
Since then I've been keeping the voltage low (3.3 to 3.4) and start with about 6 watts. I get the best flavor at lower wattage and increase only in small increments. The noticeable difference over the evod battery is that the MVP provides a constant, consistent power level all day, for days on end. More pg (and nic) in my liquid gave me the stronger hit, not the battery. The chart was a good starting point but it seems that the coil can only heat as much or little juice as the tank and wick can provide. Too much power with too little juice equals burnt, dry hits. I still have a lot to learn!
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Remember that the chart is just that...a general chart for a close reference. Coils change in resistance as they get used, also are not exactly as labeled either. The BEST way to determine the "sweet spot" is to start at the lowest power/voltage and increase incrementally to the desired result.
That chart is useless for dual coils, subohm coils, or custom built coils.
It's only useful for retail purchased single coil atomizers.
Dual coils require more wattage than single coils which is why you see people cracking out 10+ watts on a 1.8 ohm coil. Personally I never vape below 13 watts myself, and I've done 1.4 ohm single coil builds which require more than 15 watts just to get the working right. The gauge kathal wire you use, twisted wire builds, wicking, and chimney size all can alter the best wattage for any particular coil.
At best those charts are a rough guideline for retail clearos, but shouldn't be considered accurate.
The coil is only part of the equation. If you got a burnt nasty taste, which isn't surprising in the EVOD, the problem is not the coil, it's the wick. Quite simply the wick in those coils isn't designed to feed liquid to the coil at a high rate. It's meant to be vaped somewhere around the 3.7V range, so when you push the voltage significantly higher you end up with a burnt taste because your turning all of the liquid to vapor and then hitting a dry, gunked up wick.
Change to a Kanger Aerotank and you'll find that vaping at 9-10 watts is really good, and with a minor change to the rubber seal on top can allow even more liquid in so you can vape up to around 13 watts without any dry hits or burnt taste.
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If you went by that chart, I am apparently in dangerous territory every single day. That chart is only helpful, at all, for factory bought cheapo atomizers, and it's more a case of bad wicking and insufficient air supply than anything.
If you set both voltage and wattage on the MVP are you truly doing both, or is it either/or according to ohms law?
You only can use volts or watts(power) not both at the same time.
There have been quite a few changes in vaping in the past few years and there are a lot of things that are done now outside that chart.
The first thing you want is to be safe. That means knowing a little about Ohm's law and your equipment.
Then take this chart as a suggested starting area. Go on from there to find the values YOU like. This can vary depending on equipment and juice.
If you want a warmer vapor, turn up the voltage. If you get a burnt taste turn it down, unless for some reason you like the burnt taste.
Have fun and find what you like.
The first thing you want is to be safe. That means knowing a little about Ohm's law and your equipment.
Then take this chart as a suggested starting area. Go on from there to find the values YOU like. This can vary depending on equipment and juice.
If you want a warmer vapor, turn up the voltage. If you get a burnt taste turn it down, unless for some reason you like the burnt taste.
Have fun and find what you like.
The size of the wire used for the coil is a big deal. You can have a 2ohm coil, but if made from 28ga wire or even thicker, that coil will have a lot of wraps and be huge. 8 watts spread out over such a huge coil will barely get warm enough to vape at all. I'm using a 2ohm single coil using 28ga wire and 12.5 to 13.5 watts is ideal at the moment. That's 5-5.2 volts. At 4 volts (max green voltage on chart for 2ohms) the coil barely gets warm enough to vape at all. If I did that with a single coil kanger tank or something, the wick would dry hit right away and the juice would fry.
Panorama stated it perfectly. Start low, then move up slowly until your taste buds tell you that you've hit a good mark. It's a fail-safe and idiot-proof approach. And I would know (both).
Those charts only take into account volt/ohms/watts, and completely forget about those insignificant things like air flow and wicking.
So in todays world there would need to be a different chart for every different possible build in every different atomizing device.
It is quite simple to make a sub ohm coil to cold, and a multi ohm coil to hot if you understand the thermodynamics. It's no different than the cooling system in your car. If you block off the air flow to the radiator, the engine will overheat. If the thermostat in the coolant system is stuck open, the engine will run to cold.
So in todays world there would need to be a different chart for every different possible build in every different atomizing device.
It is quite simple to make a sub ohm coil to cold, and a multi ohm coil to hot if you understand the thermodynamics. It's no different than the cooling system in your car. If you block off the air flow to the radiator, the engine will overheat. If the thermostat in the coolant system is stuck open, the engine will run to cold.
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