Volts, Watts, and dual-coils

[xxJ6xx]

So, I've read here and there about how the more watts you pump into a carto, the hotter they run, which can improve your vaping experience. I've heard that somewhere between 5-9 watts is a good range to get good hits and to properly taste the flavors in e-juice.
I've seen the way watts are calculated: (volts x volts) /ohms = watts
However, I've read somewhere on here or a vendors site that dual-coil carto resistance is actually higher than what they are labled, for instance: a LR dual-coil carto rated at 1.5 ohms is actually running at 3 ohms resistance, 1.5 per coil.

So, if this is correct, a 3.7v e-power (what I have) with a 1.5ohm DC carto would be:
3.7 x 3.7 / 3 = 4.563333.... watts. Is that correct?
or is it really
3.7 x 3.7 / 1.5 = 9.12666....

And does the wattage matter much when you get to LR DCs? Or would they actually benefit from a higher voltage?

Also, on that note....how do you get a voltage of over 3.7 when that's what the battery is rated? I've seen some VV mods that run off 18650s and have been wondering that for a while. I always assumed you needed multiple batteries to reach a certain voltage, and everwhere I've gone have said to NOT stack batteries.
I have so little useful knowledge when it comes to electricity in general, other than it really sucks when it goes out.

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

I've heard that somewhere between 5-9 watts is a good range to get good hits and to properly taste the flavors in e-juice.

When I had a VV I found my sweet spot was 4.5 V. Anything higher was too much but I have a few friends that vape over 5 volts.

and everwhere I've gone have said to NOT stack batteries.

On my Don I can stack batts to up the voltage but it's too strong. You can stack batts BUT many precautions are advised.

I have so little useful knowledge when it comes to electricity in general, other than it really sucks when it goes out

I'm the same as you so I leave the numbers game to someone else.
Cheers.

 

[X P3 Flight Engineer]

The single battery ProVari or Twist use a buck boost, which is a transformer, to raise or lower the voltage above or below the battery voltage.

Stacked battery VMax and others can only reduce the voltage from what is provided by the two 3.7 batteries (7.4), but can obviously run for longer at a set voltage than the ones using a single battery.

 

[DCB305]

a LR dual-coil carto rated at 1.5 ohms is actually running at 3 ohms resistance, 1.5 per coil.

It's actually the other way around. Two 3ohm coils that offer the battery a 1.5ohm resistance when combined. I have heard about this and I think it something like this "3.7 x 3.7 / 3 = 4.563333.... watts. Is that correct?" x each coil.

Also, on that note....how do you get a voltage of over 3.7 when that's what the battery is rated?

Most single battery VV devices have electronics in them that bump up the voltages that the battery provides and will draw more current from the battery which is why you need high current drain batteries (AW IMR's and whatnot) in them.

I always assumed you needed multiple batteries to reach a certain voltage, and everwhere I've gone have said to NOT stack batteries.

I personally do not have a stacked battery mod, but I have heard that it is safe as long as you use the correct battery for the application (which I am not sure which ones they are at the moment). Mods like the Megalodon have that set up and I hope to be able to get one in the near future.

And does the wattage matter much when you get to LR DCs? Or would they actually benefit from a higher voltage?

It's always the wattage that makes the vape. VV just allows you flexibility in achieving that wattage when using different resistance attachments. For example (default single coils) 1.5ohm resistance carto at 3.7 volts get's you 9.12 watts to achieve the same (=/+/-) 9.12 watts with a 3ohm carto I would need to push 5.2 volts (9.02watts) or 5.3 volts (9.36), but in any event the vape should be more or less the same in theory. LR is usually not preferred in variable voltage as most vv devices have a limiter built in to protect the device. My Provari has a 14 watt and 3.5amp limit, so if I use a LR (1.5ohm carto) I will narrow my range as the Provari starts at 2.9 volts which would produce 5.6watts and will probably top out at around 4.5 volts which will produce 13.5 watts with each increment in voltage taking a larger leap in wattage then when using SR( standard reistance) or HR (high resistance). With a 3 ohm carto at 2.9 volts istart out at 2.83 watts and will top out at 6 volts which would be 12watts and each increment will result in a smaller increase in watts to help fine tune with more precision.

I hope this helps.

 

[tj99959]

for instance: a LR dual-coil carto rated at 1.5 ohms is actually running at 3 ohms resistance, 1.5 per coil.

Actually you have that backward. That carto has two 3 ohm coils in parallel for a total resistance of 1.5 ohms. So if you are supplying 7 watts to each coil you are asking the battery(s) to supply a total of 14 watts.

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

I personally do not have a stacked battery mod, but I have heard that it is safe as long as you use the correct battery for the application (which I am not sure which ones they are at the moment). Mods like the Megalodon have that set up and I hope to be able to get on in the near futu

The Mod MUST be vented and when stacking the batts they must be identical in charge. They advise, when stacking batts, to use similarly new batts and to test each one before stacking.
I chose the Don cuz:
3.7
long batt life
can be broken down into stealth mode
mechanical which means repairable.
If I had to choose again I'd prolly go with the E-Power because the Don connector is not not very well made and has a stiff draw. I had to mod the connector to rid it of the stiff draw. The vendor/ manufacturer is aware of this issue but to date, as far as I know, nothing has changed.

 

[DCB305]

The Mod MUST be vented and when stacking the batts they must be identical in charge. They advise, when stacking batts, to use similarly new batts and to test each one before stacking.
I chose the Don cuz:
3.7
long batt life
can be broken down into stealth mode
mechanical which means repairable.
If I had to choose again I'd prolly go with the E-Power because the Don connector is not not very well made and has a stiff draw. I had to mod the connector to rid it of the stiff draw. The vendor/ manufacturer is aware of this issue but to date, as far as I know, nothing has changed.

Thanks vapoor eyes er, I appreciate the heads up. I was planning on it for the stealth mode as well (single batt shorty), but don't want to have to tinker with it to get the draw right.

 

[DaveP]

Actually you have that backward. That carto has two 3 ohm coils in parallel for a total resistance of 1.5 ohms. So if you are supplying 7 watts to each coil you are asking the battery(s) to supply a total of 14 watts.

xxj6xx is actually right about the wattage (in his second example). He did have it backwards on the individual coil resistances. The wattage is 9.13 with 3.7v and a 1.5 ohm DC. A dual coil carto can be thought of in the same way as a Y adapter on a hose. If you use one to operate two sprinklers from a single hose, you get half the water volume and half the pressure through each. If you combine the output of both by attaching another Y adapter to bring the hoses back together, you restore the original volume, less any restrictive losses from the adapters.

What you get when you use a 1.5 ohm dual coil is two 3 ohm coils, each operating at half the voltage (pressure) of a single coil. This gives you the benefit of more coil area coming in contact with the juice, but at half the heat (watts) on each coil. You get more juice vaporized at lower heat. People who don't like hot vapes will like dual coils. Those who like to feel the warmth will like single coils at the same resistance. I think dual coils help carto life by vaporizing the juice in volume through increased contact area, but at lower temps. That's why dual coils create so much vapor and still give you longer carto life before burning the filler and juice and changing the taste.

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

You're welcome. All I had to do was remove the batt pin on connector and hacksaw the air ports to a lower point. Although the vendor states NEVER remove the batt pin I did so with no consequences and now the draw is excellent. On both my existing connector and a brand new one the threading is not exactly perfect. Boge and Smok Tech cartos do not thread perfectly/ tightly. Sad because one of the reasons I bought the Don was because of the "quality". When my nephew (tool and die maker) gets back from Russia he's going to make me a few new ones. I will have to say though it is a workhorse and except for the issues mentioned has performed and held up quite well. Seems lottsa stuff in the world of vaping needs tweaking

Thanks vapoor eyes er, I appreciate the heads up. I was planning on it for the stealth mode as well (single batt shorty), but don't want to have to tinker with it to get the draw right.

 

[tj99959]

So, if this is correct, a 3.7v e-power (what I have) with a 1.5ohm DC carto would be:
3.7 x 3.7 / 3 = 4.563333.... watts. Is that correct?
or is it really
3.7 x 3.7 / 1.5 = 9.12666....

Actually both are correct (sorta)
First example is what is being used by each coil, the second example is what is provided by the battery to drive both coils.
Will it vape like a single coil at 4.56 watte ...... NO
Will it vape like a single coil at 9.12 watts ...... NO
The DCC exposes more liquid to the more heating surface providing a larger volume of vapor without the amount of heat that would be required by a single coil to provide the same amount of vapor.