VV mod 3.2-6+v 4400mAh Auto or Manual DRIP SAFE

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MASTER0FDAMPF

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Mar 22, 2011
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OK, please be gentle...
(*correction that this is a 2200 mAh schematic)
First, an explanation -
I wanted to make my first mod a VV that I designed (of course with much inspiration here). I am still new at the more subtle arts of the electronics design (hats off to the masters...this is intense stuff).
I am having issues calculating what POT to use and a couple of the resistors needed to make this what I want.

Before you freak out on me...the Auto mode looks like an always on! It is! The switch is added post atty connector, so in auto mode the atty connector should always have power.

The design should allow the following features:
3.2-6+v to the atty (even a 6 volt top cap is fine for me)
Auto or manual (the auto adapter is tested already and works beautifully up to 6v and I will post once this schematic is done, including how to make the auto adapter)
SEALED 510 connector (the auto adapter makes this possible)
LCD display should output batt voltage (combined) AND if no atty attached, the direct power going to it, with atty it should show under load voltage while vaping.
Mega hours of vaping!
Here is the Schema:

M0D MOD v1.jpg

I will attach this in post 2. If there is a major mistake please dont take my head off. I am willing to admit that there is limited knowledge on my part and bow in amazement that alot of you can do this stuff with little to no thought whatsoever. I have been repairing by replacement for years, so soldering/desoldering is not new to me.

My main issue is of course experience and mathmatics (I am learning just not fast enough for the timeframe I want).

I really need help with resistors (labeled R1-R2) and the POT to get the voltage correct. I will be ordering parts hopefully mid next week so I can build this for vapefest Vegas.

The adjustible regulator is from MV (as well as most of the other parts like the LCD) and I would like to keep the cost below 50$ if possible. I will update the schema daily with any changes to keep it current and when I am done I will design a PCB for future use and post it as well (using express PCB). I will upload the Schematic for ExpressSCH if people want me to, just let me know.

Let's see what we can do and hopefully astound vapefesters with a killer VV mod design that will work for everyone. Wouldn't it be nice if there was a 50-60$ mod to handle everyone including auto lovers? (ok, so maybe not everyone, but I bet they would use it if their batt died!
 
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MASTER0FDAMPF

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Using two 2200 mah batteries in series, will still only give you 2200 mah. It will not double to 4400mah.

For 4400 mah, you would have to use them in parallel.

I just realized that I had not reduced it after removing the other 2 batts. Originally I had intended 4 of them (what I am building this into is large enough for it, but some friends advised that they would not even bother to look at a mod with 4 batts). I will update that tonight.
 

MASTER0FDAMPF

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Couple of notes:
Led is backwards; direct short at pin 4 if the LED switch is closed; your auto switch will work but it needs to flipped so that power is always available at the manual switch.

What are you using for the auto switch? I just dissected a bad 808 battery and the switch would be very easy to use.

I have been in contact with SmokTech to have them made, but the proto was made using a 510 batt. It was cut just longer than the switch and the wiring upraded. Essentially this is a auto switch in an atty housing with a battery connector where the cart would be.
 
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CapeCAD

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Didn't see an answer..
Your resistors and pot are wired wrong. Adjustment is made with voltage divider from output to ground

r2 is between vout and adj
r1 is between adj and gnd

r2=r1*((vout/1.216)-1)
r1=r2/((vout/1.216)-1)

You could use:
1k resistor from Vout to Adj, 250Ohm resistor and 400Ohm pot in series from Adj to Gnd
 

MASTER0FDAMPF

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Mar 22, 2011
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Didn't see an answer..
Your resistors and pot are wired wrong. Adjustment is made with voltage divider from output to ground

r2 is between vout and adj
r1 is between adj and gnd

r2=r1*((vout/1.216)-1)
r1=r2/((vout/1.216)-1)

You could use:
1k resistor from Vout to Adj, 250Ohm resistor and 400Ohm pot in series from Adj to Gnd

Awesome! I will try to get that updated...just excessively busy..Thanks so much!
 

MASTER0FDAMPF

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Am I correct in seeing that there are 7 switches so far? That's going to make for a pretty busy mod, just a fair warning. Also, look into the "evercool" regulators, they don't run hot like the linear regs and the batteries will last up to twice as long depending on the voltage you vape at.

yes, something like that.

1 Main on/off to keep accidental firing from happening. On most mods already
1 Manual button - On most mods already

3 are for the LCD only and be positioned in a recessed (possibly covered) area or dip switches if you wanted to squeeze it into something small.
1 is for the LED and would likely be located with these. These would be set it and forget it for most people. Possibly the LCD on/off would need to be slightly more prominent for checking batts before running out the door.

1 switch for manual or auto (most would set this once and forget about it) Possibly recessed to avoid accidental auto mode.
 

MASTER0FDAMPF

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Mar 22, 2011
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Am I correct in seeing that there are 7 switches so far? That's going to make for a pretty busy mod, just a fair warning. Also, look into the "evercool" regulators, they don't run hot like the linear regs and the batteries will last up to twice as long depending on the voltage you vape at.

I would love to do that, but time constraints forced me to use the chips I have. I will likely do so with a version 2 in the future.
 

jrm850

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Jun 18, 2011
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Wouldn't that require 2 atomizer connectors or the manual button being pressed to use the auto?

Only if the switches were wired in series. Attach +V to one leg of each switch and attach the other leg of each switch to one side of the atomizer. Connect the other side of the atomizer to gnd. Either switch will close the circuit. The auto switch will always turn on when there is vacuum. The manual just allows you to override the auto. Having both contacts closed at the same time will just lower your total switch resistance and cause no harm.

http://www.falstad.com/circuit/#%24+1+5.0E-6+10.20027730826997+50+5.0+50%0AR+112+240+64+240+0+0+40.0+5.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0A159+176+192+240+192+1+2.6+1.0E10%0A159+176+320+240+320+0+20.0+1.0E10%0Ag+560+240+608+240+0%0Aw+112+240+176+192+0%0Aw+112+240+176+320+0%0Aw+240+320+352+288+0%0Aw+240+192+352+288+0%0Aw+352+224+560+240+0%0A162+352+288+352+224+1+2.1024259+1.0+0.0+0.0%0A
 
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