VV or VW
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Thanks! That was really helpful I have a VV right now and I didn't quite understand the difference.
This is what I found...
I have both VV and VW, and I have to adjust a little up or down to suit my needs on both units. Even if I don't change anything with my tanks, coil or juice. Sometimes my taste wants more, sometimes less. I always have to adjust a bit over the course of the day, full charge or low charge it doesn't matter, always a couple clicks up or a couple clicks down.
It doesn't matter what machine you have or how accurate the claims are, the true variable is you the human during the day and how your tastes change.
I have both VV and VW, and I have to adjust a little up or down to suit my needs on both units. Even if I don't change anything with my tanks, coil or juice. Sometimes my taste wants more, sometimes less. I always have to adjust a bit over the course of the day, full charge or low charge it doesn't matter, always a couple clicks up or a couple clicks down.
It doesn't matter what machine you have or how accurate the claims are, the true variable is you the human during the day and how your tastes change.
He didn't suggest you needed to change from your Provari, he just made a decision for himself. I made the same decision when deciding which high end mod to buy. Enjoy your Provari, I am enjoying my Semo.
I vape a Provari and a Segelei Zmax. I keep the Zmax in VW mode and I don't have to touch anything if I change from a 2 ohm to a 3 ohm coil. On the Provari, I run the voltage at 3.7 for a 2 ohm coil and 4.2 for a 3 ohm coil. On the Zmax, I keep it set to 6 watts and forget it, no matter what the coil resistance might happen to be.
There are times when my tank head or my carto starts to get inefficient and I have to change the wattage setting, but when that happens it's time to wash and dry burn the tank head or ditch the carto and replace it.
Either design is fine. VV changes are second nature and we just change the voltage when we change the resistance. It's easy to memorize what voltage works with which coil resistance.
Here's the formula relationships in a wheel.
Using V^2 over R to calculate watts ...
3.7v at 2 ohms = 3.7 * 3.7 / 2 = 6.84 watts
4.5v at 3 ohms = 4.5 * 4.5 / 3 = 6.75 watts
VW does it automatically. VV requires user input to change the voltage.
There are times when my tank head or my carto starts to get inefficient and I have to change the wattage setting, but when that happens it's time to wash and dry burn the tank head or ditch the carto and replace it.
Either design is fine. VV changes are second nature and we just change the voltage when we change the resistance. It's easy to memorize what voltage works with which coil resistance.
Here's the formula relationships in a wheel.
Using V^2 over R to calculate watts ...
3.7v at 2 ohms = 3.7 * 3.7 / 2 = 6.84 watts
4.5v at 3 ohms = 4.5 * 4.5 / 3 = 6.75 watts
VW does it automatically. VV requires user input to change the voltage.
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Ohms law is a circle, and it makes no difference if you go around the circle clockwise or counter clockwise. Also no matter where you start from, there are always three formulas that will get you from point A to point B.
So all it amounts to is which is easier for you to use. With most of my PV's I adjust the resistance, the end result is the same.
So all it amounts to is which is easier for you to use. With most of my PV's I adjust the resistance, the end result is the same.
Provape has said that they have looked into offering VW, but that was over a year ago and I honestly don't think they will offer it anytime soon. It they were, it would have been last spring when they did the v2.5 upgrade (purely a cosmetic change to the bodies of the standard & mini).
The majority of Provari owners probably wouldn't use VW even if Provape made it available. VV essentially can get you to the same place, VW just does it differently. People who buy a Provari have chosen it for other reasons. The quality of build and attention to detail, dependability, consistancy, reliability, durability, and repairability/serviceability.
You can tell by the way he started the thread and popped the other post in that he was just trying to get a rise out of Provari owners. I didn't want to disappoint him.
My opinion. Doesn't make any difference. If it's got VW, I tend to use it. If not, no big deal, I just use VV and am just as happy. Don't even think about it anymore.
I mostly use iclear 30's, PT2's, and other like tanks. Occasionally I'll use a dripper, or RBA, but not often, and never sub-ohm. So it's not even a factor. If I did want to sub-ohm, I've got two mech mods for that.
best regards, larry mac
I mostly use iclear 30's, PT2's, and other like tanks. Occasionally I'll use a dripper, or RBA, but not often, and never sub-ohm. So it's not even a factor. If I did want to sub-ohm, I've got two mech mods for that.
best regards, larry mac
I think you are right. Personally when I want to change my wattage it doesn't matter much if the button I push is labelled with "V" or a "W".
One thing to input.. 9watts on a 3ohm atomizer will be 5.2volts..0.2volts higher than the 5volt max setting on a mvp. A 6volt pv typically has 15 watt max setting.
You could get more power out of voltage with low resistance atomizers, but you may have problems with current cutoffs.
You could get more power out of voltage with low resistance atomizers, but you may have problems with current cutoffs.
Awesome write-up! takes alot of the mystery out of the VV/VW devices
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