VV pass-thru PSU

[NicksVap3]

just an idea i thought up. thought using a common 12v in like the lifepo charger uses so you can vape on ac/dc. an rca output jack. could be a very nice psu for vapers. and im sure they could be made fairly cheap too

heard scubadan had an idea like this but not sure.... any ideas anyone?

pros:
no worry of frying usb ports
no worrys of batteries
not just 3.7 or 5v PT

 

[Atari]

I had the same idea, so I started google-ing and this is where I ended up lol

 

[Dj Xy]

are you looking to get this made, also when you say the tube is big enough for juice so you mean as in a bottom feed?

 

[NicksVap3]

are you looking to get this made, also when you say the tube is big enough for juice so you mean as in a bottom feed?

yeah. but after i drew that up and and was posting it, i thought it would be good to put an rca out, make it easy to pretty much put anything on the other end

 

[Dj Xy]

this seems like a fairly simple build, i would even make it so the 12v feed could be unplugged and swapped with either a car adaptor, or ac adaptor

 

[NicksVap3]

thats what i was thinking. same idea as my lifepo charger. id think the fact your not actually carrying it in your pocket, case can be a little bigger, more room so not stuffing it in. dont gotta worry about efficiency for the most part

 

[Old_Trekee]

This would be a very easy mod to make. You could use an old power supply for an external hard drive or one from Radio shack for the a/c power adapter and a cigarette lighter adapter for the car to power it. Use a modified EverCool circuit with a digital voltage readout in a 3 AA box with switch for the electronics. Plenty of room since you wouldn't need any batteries. The tube for the atomizer or cartomizer could be made from pvc pipe or copper tube. Use a potentiometer instead of a trimmer for the voltage adjuster. Might have to try one. The Evercool can handle up to 14 volts input. What do you think

 

[NicksVap3]

the vape bay

vaping dont need to be batteries for VV, or a 3.7 or 5v PT...

wish i had money to blow on trying this stuff, but someone else may have parts and give it a go...
xoxide.com has a lian li 3.5" screw in blank, add a bottom to it and youve got a bay device. 4pin molex for power. even add a fan if the components need cooling.

if someone tries this and works good, i gotta black case with blue lights

 

[Old_Trekee]

I'm building an EverCool in a 4 AA box. Thinking of putting an external power jack in the circuit that will disconnect the batteries when you plug it in. Will be able to use a 110 a/c to 12 d/c adapter, as well as a cigarette lighter plug in the car. So when I'm around power I can save my batteries and when I'm not I can vape on the batteries which I understand will last about 30 hours of heavy vaping. Would be nice to charge the batteries when I'm hooked up to external power, but for now I think this plan will work. Maybe make some adjustments for the charging later.

 

[LibertariaNate]

I had the same idea and started poking around to see if anyone else had done it. I guess there really isn't anything new under the sun.

I'm really interested in building something like this, but my only experience with building mods has been simple box mods. I know that since this is plugged in to the wall efficiency is less of an issue than it would be with batteries, but heat is still an issue. Does anyone have a link to a switching regulator that would a good choice for this application?

 

[NicksVap3]

searching for parts, heres what i got:

buck/boost module - 3.99
http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-DC-StepDown-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Module-LM2596-/330574414294?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf7c541d6#ht_6475wt_905
main power switch - 13.75
http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-Metal-Switch-Latching-Push-Button-Brass-Blue-Led-/280687041151?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415a405a7f#ht_4555wt_905
drive cover - 3.49
http://www.xoxide.com/lian-li-floppy-drive-bay-cover.html
lcd readout - 7.99
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230624724568#ht_5129wt_905
panel mounted pot - 11.07
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P16NP-470-ND
then id need a few rca connectors, and maybe a fuse to be safe

thoughts, comments?

 

[LibertariaNate]

That looks like it would work. I'm going to use a PTR08060. A bit more expensive, but I've seen it used in quite a few mods here.

 

[NicksVap3]

thing that caught my eye is "input voltage has nothing to do with output voltage". the one scubadan posted in another thread, input had to be so much more than desired output. it will have 12v in, and i know its useless, but id like to be able to do 12v out too, maybe more. tim allen comes to mind here
only thing, ive been wanting one of them anti-vandal switches on my case some how, but they are damn expensive

 

[LibertariaNate]

So you're going to make the Binford Vape 12000...

I was thinking in more practical usability terms. I don't go less than 3.3v and no higher than 5v so that's why I went the route I did.

 

[NicksVap3]

yeah, binford vapebay 2000, 24v, 4 barrel HR attys, 2ml juice a second....

nah really all i need is 6v, what i vaped at for the past 3-4 months, who knows down the road. i figured trim it down on the board to about 12v, then use the panel mounted pot to trim it down to desired output

 

[CraigHB]

Use the PTR08050C or the OKR-T6.

 

[NicksVap3]

Use the PTR08050C or the OKR-T6.

the first one i cant find, the second says max output 6v. id like to be able to do more. if you meant the ptr08060, it says max output 5.5v. i use my prodigy at 6v, and sometimes i feel like i may want a little hotter.
also, i may be wrong... but couldnt i just use a pot to just trim down the 12v? id say highest i would want to go would be 7v if that

 

[VpnDrgn]

searching for parts, heres what i got:

buck/boost module
DC-DC Adjustable boost buck regulator Power supply C28 | eBay
main power switch
Vandal Resistant Illuminated Switch (Latching) - Blue Ring at Xoxide!
drive cover
Lian Li 3.5" Drive Bay Cover (Black) at Xoxide!

then id need a pot to mount to the panel, a few rca connectors, lcd readout, and maybe a fuse to be safe

thoughts, comments?

A couple things to consider -

VV module - the input voltage does effect the output voltage, notice the range of outputs listed
are 2V's less than the input range listed, a 2V dropout is common for these types of modules,
that still means you have 10v's to play with, which is prolly enough to pop even a HV atty
also list amps at "about" 1 amp with 3 amp max, that suggest that for our uses you will be stressing
this board

LED switch - list only 50mA rating, if it works at all it prolly won't work for long

putting everything in the case - if you put the VV board in the case and just the switch and connector
at the end of the cable, you will loose some voltage depending on the quality of cable / length/ and
resistance of atty/carto, may not loose a lot but it will skew the voltage that you think you are
vaping at

If you want a modular unit, I would suggest a LM2596 step down converter, amps are still a little low though.
The OKR-Twould be a better bet,
it is fairly simple and rated for 6 amps, for some reason it seems to be a trade off between volts and amps for the
modular units and DIY chips.

Here is a better switch, it is only rated 2 amps but that is at 48V's so Java says it will handle
higher amps at lower voltages.

IMHO it would be better to put everything on the hand held end. The narrower LM2596 module, a switch,
and voltage meter would all fit in a fairly small project box. ( I am considering putting mine in a polycarbonate
tube to show off the electronics and make the VM visible without having to cut a perfect hole for it )
Put a jack in the box with some kind of breaker or fuse to protect the PC if the PT has some kind of melt down.

Another thing to consider, if you use a dc jack on the PC and the PT, you can use the PT away from the PC
with an AC adapter.

I hope this helps, and I hope someone will correct me if I got something wrong or backwards.

 

[Old_Trekee]

You should look at the thread on the EverCool mod. It uses a TI PTR08100W switching regulator and is 90% efficient or better for the voltages we use. I'm building one myself. Already have the chip and TI will send you a sample chip for free. Takes about 3 days to get it after you order it.

 

[VpnDrgn]

But..But...the 8100W has only 5.5V output, where's the power