The EverCool uses a Texas Instruments PTR08100W switching regulator. Input voltage 4.5 - 14 volts. Output .7 - 5.5 volts. Better than 90% efficiency. You can get it at Digi-key.com or a free sample from TI. Doesn't even get warm.
VV pass-thru PSU
- Thread starter NicksVap3
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
VpnDrgn - i updated the module to the one you posted, mainly the price is way better. the switch i just like the style and you can find them with differant voltage and amp ratings, i just didnt feel like searching right now, just there to show what style. my case is on the desk right beside me, so id have easy access to it all while at the computer, and it would look cool on my box too 
also i added a voltage readout to the list, i found it when i checked out the module you linked. blue readout, just what i wanted
also, added a link to a switch thats 125vac 6 amp max. its AC rated so im not sure if that effects the amp ratings any?
also added a pot to panel mount
also i added a voltage readout to the list, i found it when i checked out the module you linked. blue readout, just what i wanted
also, added a link to a switch thats 125vac 6 amp max. its AC rated so im not sure if that effects the amp ratings any?
also added a pot to panel mount
Last edited:
Sorry, typo there, PTR08060W
Hard to find stuff that outputs over 6V, just the way these parts are. A lot of them top out at 5.5V so the OKR-T is less common in that regard.
You can't use a pot because, for example, if you wanted to vape at 6V with a 12V supply, the pot would have to dissipate as much power as the atomizer. You won't find pots with power ratings that high, well you might, but they would be quite large.
You run into the same heat problem with a linear regulator, it would also have to dissipate as much power as the atomizer, large heat sink required for that. A switching regulator is going to be your best bet since it doesn't convert power to heat to regulate voltage.
dissipating heat would not be that big of an issue, ive got heat sinks and plenty of fans left over from computer builds. but thinking of heat in a PC, what about fan controllers. youve gone linear regulator, PWM and rheostat fan controllers... could mod a PWM fan controller, but would a voltage readout read it correctly? rheostat is looking good. this isnt a handheld mod, there is PLENTY of cooling options in a PC
Evercool Twister 3.5in / PCI Fan Speed Controller at Xoxide!
i have a crappy little pci slot fan controller around somewhere too... id assume it has a rheostat on it. it was a freebie with a fan i once got. for the life of me i can not find it?!?! if and when i find it, i will cut a connector off an old fan and wire it up to a 510 connector and check it with my voltmeter. most rheostat fan controllers i found are 20-30w... running 7.4v with a standard 2.5 ohm atty is a hair under 22w according to this online calc.... gotta find that fan controller
Evercool Twister 3.5in / PCI Fan Speed Controller at Xoxide!
i have a crappy little pci slot fan controller around somewhere too... id assume it has a rheostat on it. it was a freebie with a fan i once got. for the life of me i can not find it?!?! if and when i find it, i will cut a connector off an old fan and wire it up to a 510 connector and check it with my voltmeter. most rheostat fan controllers i found are 20-30w... running 7.4v with a standard 2.5 ohm atty is a hair under 22w according to this online calc.... gotta find that fan controller
Last edited:
That's true, lots of space and airflow in a PC box. So yea, using a linear regulator and heat sink would be more practical.
Some discussion here already about PWM regulation for an atomizer which would be pretty much the same as that used for PWM fan regulation. However, PC fans are fairly low current devices, usually under half an amp so you probably wouldn't be able to use a fan controller. Could make a high power one yourself and that's been discussed here in this forum.
Actually, now that I think of it, you could drive a Power FET off a PWM fan output. Then you could drive the atomizer hard as the power supply can handle.
Some discussion here already about PWM regulation for an atomizer which would be pretty much the same as that used for PWM fan regulation. However, PC fans are fairly low current devices, usually under half an amp so you probably wouldn't be able to use a fan controller. Could make a high power one yourself and that's been discussed here in this forum.
Actually, now that I think of it, you could drive a Power FET off a PWM fan output. Then you could drive the atomizer hard as the power supply can handle.
Last edited:
pwm also seems to be popular in another popular hobby... RC.
this pwm speed control is rated 12-24v dc, 3 amp
DC 12V-24V 3A Motor Speed Control PWM HHO RC Controller | eBay
Specifications:
voltage: 12V - 24V DC
current: 3A
this pwm speed control is rated 12-24v dc, 3 amp
DC 12V-24V 3A Motor Speed Control PWM HHO RC Controller | eBay
Specifications:
voltage: 12V - 24V DC
current: 3A
ok well cant find the fan controller, but i found a nyko intercooler ts for the fat ps3. has 4 lil 40mm fans, and what i believe is a rheostat on the module
test on the original 13.5vdc. came to about 9.5 to 12.5v
test on 12v from a 4pin molex, about 8.2 to 11.5v
so this gives me about a 70-95 percent of total input voltage. not enough play in voltage with that.
im going to try to remove the rheostat from the module and test just that. the module includes 2 temp sensors i had to blow on to warm up while testing lol...
test on the original 13.5vdc. came to about 9.5 to 12.5v
test on 12v from a 4pin molex, about 8.2 to 11.5v
so this gives me about a 70-95 percent of total input voltage. not enough play in voltage with that.
im going to try to remove the rheostat from the module and test just that. the module includes 2 temp sensors i had to blow on to warm up while testing lol...
anyone know anything about rheostats? i found a site on choosing a rheostat for a fan controller. i went through the process and came up with a 12ohm rheostat, to have a range of 3-12v. these are pricey for one appropriate for this. unless i mis-calculated... how far off am i?
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=RES15RE-ND
core diameter is doable, chiar over 22mm, the bay is 25mm tall. but price... wow
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=RES15RE-ND
core diameter is doable, chiar over 22mm, the bay is 25mm tall. but price... wow
Last edited:
If you wanted to drive a 3 ohm atomizer at 5V with a 12V source, you'd be dropping 7V across the pot. With 5/3A, that would be almost 12W on the pot. Should work. Might want to mount the part on a metal plate to provide some heat sinking. You could go over 12.5W on the pot when driving the atomizer at lower voltages with a lower resistance, but that's a continuous rating and you wouldn't be driving the atomizer continuously. You could probably go as high as 20W on the pot for short periods without damaging it.
im wondering about the resistance too. id like to go from about 3v up
the rheostat or pot i scrapped out of the ps3 cooler would make a decent battery powered VV.. about 5.2 to 7.6v with 2 10440s... not as low as id like to go but its something for nothing, and alot easier than some VV ive seen here. maybe tomorrow ill find an atty connector and try a vape on it
the rheostat or pot i scrapped out of the ps3 cooler would make a decent battery powered VV.. about 5.2 to 7.6v with 2 10440s... not as low as id like to go but its something for nothing, and alot easier than some VV ive seen here. maybe tomorrow ill find an atty connector and try a vape on it
Last edited:
Heat is going to be the issue when using a potentiometer (aka rheostat) to implement a variable DC power supply. Similar to a linear regulator, what you don't use, you dissipate as heat. Most smaller pots can't handle much power. They're usually in the fractions of a watt. That one you linked to is wire-wound which is similar to the way high power resistors are made. They get big. I have a 50W 1Ω resistor on a load bank I use for testing that's as big as an 18650 battery.
15 Ohms is probably okay. You could go as low as 8 Ohms. You want a high enough value to hit your bottom voltage requirement, but low enough so you can use most of the pot's throw. That provides better accuracy and helps spread the heat across more of the coils. It's a simple formula, just a voltage divider; output voltage = input voltage x atty resistance / (pot resistance + atty resistance).
15 Ohms is probably okay. You could go as low as 8 Ohms. You want a high enough value to hit your bottom voltage requirement, but low enough so you can use most of the pot's throw. That provides better accuracy and helps spread the heat across more of the coils. It's a simple formula, just a voltage divider; output voltage = input voltage x atty resistance / (pot resistance + atty resistance).
Last edited:
MP2307DN 3A DC-DC Step-down Power Supply Module KIS-3R33S [MP2307] - US$0.79 : Satistronics Store, China Electronic Components Online Store - Wholesale Development Tools and Components from China
does that look like it would hold up? 3a constant load. 2 caps and a pot to make VV
does that look like it would hold up? 3a constant load. 2 caps and a pot to make VV
I have been involved with the tattoo industry in the past and this thread has given me an idea.
Tattoo Power Supplies from Inkcraft
a tattoo machine runs off of a variable voltage power supply. I have a couple of these laying around. I might have to do it. lol I would have to use the foot pedal switch that is standard with a tattoo machine that would be fun.
Tattoo Power Supplies from Inkcraft
a tattoo machine runs off of a variable voltage power supply. I have a couple of these laying around. I might have to do it. lol I would have to use the foot pedal switch that is standard with a tattoo machine that would be fun.
i got the parts on order, they will take a while to deliver though, july 22 - aug 4...
this is the DC-DC step down module
this is the pot ill be using
havent decided on the voltage checker yet, it will be blue though. theres one that displays amperage too, but its double the price. the pot has a switch that will be the master on switch also. the displays i want to use wont fit into a 3.5" bay so it will be a 5.25" bay device, no big deal, theres 3 open... pretty sure it will be a rca out for power so it will last longer, can make an rca to usb adapter... once stuff starts coming in ill open a new thread with the build up
this is the DC-DC step down module
this is the pot ill be using
havent decided on the voltage checker yet, it will be blue though. theres one that displays amperage too, but its double the price. the pot has a switch that will be the master on switch also. the displays i want to use wont fit into a 3.5" bay so it will be a 5.25" bay device, no big deal, theres 3 open... pretty sure it will be a rca out for power so it will last longer, can make an rca to usb adapter... once stuff starts coming in ill open a new thread with the build up
All the features are in this mod for less than $30.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/220307-vvbox-vvpassthru.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/220307-vvbox-vvpassthru.html
- Status
Similar threads
