So I already have a Grand and a Mini. I'm considering buying a VV Grand. One thing that kind of worries me is the stacked 18350s. I'm a bit concerned. Is the VV safe with the two 18350s? And should I get button tops still?
VV Reo Stacked batteries?
- Thread starter Jazzi Mike
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Stacking batteries just takes a bit of a routine to follow. You'll want to start off with two pairs. Label them 1,2,3,4. Only use and charge them as pairs. So only use #1 with #2, and when they die switch them out with #3 and #4. Every other time you use them you'll want to reverse which one is on top. So one time you have #2 on the bottom, after they get used again fresh off the charger stick #2 on top and so forth.
That's my understanding of it at least.
-B
Edit: stacking is perfectly safe, and the VV Grand will not work without doing so. Button tops are fine.
That's my understanding of it at least.
-B
Edit: stacking is perfectly safe, and the VV Grand will not work without doing so. Button tops are fine.
I've been running a VVG for just shy of a year.
I use AW IMR 18350s. I labeled em 1A, 1B & 2A, 2B with a sharpie.
I rotate between the two sets and run / charge the 1s together and the 2s together.
The VVG works like a Rockstar. I've even considered getting additional VVGs because I like the button and noalox free life it affords the hombre / chica lucky enough to have one in possession.
It is a fantastic mod that is only slightly taller than a grand. It's the same width.
And the wheel makes it go from mellow vape to scorch your lungs (and everything in between) in about 2 seconds
I use AW IMR 18350s. I labeled em 1A, 1B & 2A, 2B with a sharpie.
I rotate between the two sets and run / charge the 1s together and the 2s together.
The VVG works like a Rockstar. I've even considered getting additional VVGs because I like the button and noalox free life it affords the hombre / chica lucky enough to have one in possession.
It is a fantastic mod that is only slightly taller than a grand. It's the same width.
And the wheel makes it go from mellow vape to scorch your lungs (and everything in between) in about 2 seconds
yeah when i first got my VV Grand I tried using a 18650 and it didn't perform well......but once i put two 18350's in there it worked like a charm
Using an 18650 rather defeats the point of vv anyway - yes i tried it - an 18700 battery is a better fit, but where it excels with stacked batteries is getting a great vape from "high" (lol - well high to Krazirob and i anyway) resistance coils.
Any problems and it has to be returned. It's a reliable enough mod but the faffing about with the batteries gets on your nerves and it gets the least use of any of my Reos.
T
Any problems and it has to be returned. It's a reliable enough mod but the faffing about with the batteries gets on your nerves and it gets the least use of any of my Reos.
T
I've never used a vv Reo but, I could never get the vape I wanted from my other vv mods.
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Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk
could be wrong, but i think the VVG chip can only regulate down--- it doesn't boost. with stacked batts your ceiling is 7-8V. with a single batt the ceiling is 4.2 on a freshly charged, so the best possible performance would be the same as a mech. (assuming one defines performance as the ability to deliver power to the coil.)
I was just curious. I'm pretty knowledgable regarding vaping and I feel pretty competent with Reo-related matters now. The stacked batteries thing just seemed iffy to me.
Prior to getting my Reo, I mostly used regulated mods. I still have a ton of 32 gauge wire and I can see where a VV Grand May give me what I miss in my old VV mods. I still think tube mechanical mods are stupid
Prior to getting my Reo, I mostly used regulated mods. I still have a ton of 32 gauge wire and I can see where a VV Grand May give me what I miss in my old VV mods. I still think tube mechanical mods are stupid
Stacked batteries in a mod with circuitry, designed to use them like that, is safe.
You will find several PVs that are designed to use stacked batts. Perfectly safe for all practical purposes.
Where people get in trouble is not understanding batteries, or battery safety, and stacking them in a mechanical mod, one that does not have circuitry and is not even deisigned for stacked batteries, and then also doing stuff like putting a shorted delivery device on top of it, without taking a reading, or sub ohm vaping w/out understanding what they are doing, using damagaged batteries, etc. Those are things that come to mind when I think of "boom!".
i was initially concerned about stacking too. the more i read, i came away with the take that stacking was probly more of an issue with the older chemistry batteries, lack of education (such as the tips mentioned earlier) and the fact that the Reo has better venting than the little mech tube mods have. that's just my impression, nothing scientific.
I'm old, and don't know much about anything other than Highways, Gears, Load Limits and Log Books anymore. I have two beater mini's that travel with me, and a VV Grand at home. Love the vaping pleasure the VV Grand provides. I use ONLY the batteries recommended on Rob's Website. And I use the button-top. Don't number them, rotate positions or any of that. Two in the Mod, two in the Charger. When the VV Grand stops vaping, I switch them. Been doing that for a year now, and no problems here.
In Fact, I was just looking at a Black Wrinkle/ Purple Door VV Grand. Still trying to show restraint here....
In Fact, I was just looking at a Black Wrinkle/ Purple Door VV Grand. Still trying to show restraint here....
The basic issue is that your voltage doubles, but your AW 18350 is still only rated at 6A, not 12 just cos you have 2!
1Ω coil, 4.2v = 4.2A
same coil at 8.4v .......you can see where i am going here!
That is why your coils must be higher on a vv anything with stacked batteries. I do have a mod that uses stacked 18350s and has a switch to disable all the circuitry and just run power straight to the atomiser. You can do your own maths for the power that thing is able to provide. Suffice to say that all juice burns fast and throat hit - lmao! Not recommended.
You may want to read this too, because it explains why batteries in series are used as "matched pairs" - it has to do with safety and the ability of your mod to provide power at all.
Serial and Parallel Battery Configurations and Information
T
1Ω coil, 4.2v = 4.2A
same coil at 8.4v .......you can see where i am going here!
That is why your coils must be higher on a vv anything with stacked batteries. I do have a mod that uses stacked 18350s and has a switch to disable all the circuitry and just run power straight to the atomiser. You can do your own maths for the power that thing is able to provide. Suffice to say that all juice burns fast and throat hit - lmao! Not recommended.
You may want to read this too, because it explains why batteries in series are used as "matched pairs" - it has to do with safety and the ability of your mod to provide power at all.
Serial and Parallel Battery Configurations and Information
T
yes the VV does great for above 1 ohm....i pulled my VV out of drawer today and made a 1.2 ohm micro and blowing straight clouds........this proves that no matter what you got its all in the build of the coil and how you deliver the power to the coil.........
If there is a problem when stacking batteries in a VV mod it comes from unbalanced charge or discharge. For instance if you install one battery at 4 volts and one at 3.5 volts, the 3.5v battery can pull power from the 4v one and make its share of the load too high. The same will happen if one battery is weaker than the other since it runs down faster. New batteries from the same lot are normally very close to each other as far as discharge goes and will normally age close to each other if used as a pair and no other usages for life. So using new paired batteries is the best advice unless you have the gear to balance charge and do routine discharge testing. Even with balanced new ones they can get unbalanced with age. It is good every once and awhile to check the voltage of both when you pull them to see if they are close to discharging at the same rate. If you see battery A is coming out with a lower voltage than B you can track that over time and when that gap starts expanding is the time to split the pair and either use them individually in a mech or retire them.
BTW, I personally do not cotton to the lead (or top) battery theory. Physics is physics and if placement makes a difference then it is in the battery connections not the batteries. Kirchhoff hasn't been wrong yet. Dont get me wrong, if you have the top battery syndrome then it is a good idea to swap them mid discharge, just disagree why it is happening.
Also, digital buck and boost converters work by power not amperage. If you have 8 volts input with 4 volts out at 2 amps then you have 1 amp in plus converter losses. If you have 4 volts in and 8 volts out at 1 amp you will have 2 amps in plus converter losses. Once that power is stored in the magnetic field in the inductor voltage and amperage are gone and you have the magnetic field strength which is converted back to different voltage and amperage. Power is what is constant less losses.
BTW, I personally do not cotton to the lead (or top) battery theory. Physics is physics and if placement makes a difference then it is in the battery connections not the batteries. Kirchhoff hasn't been wrong yet. Dont get me wrong, if you have the top battery syndrome then it is a good idea to swap them mid discharge, just disagree why it is happening.
Also, digital buck and boost converters work by power not amperage. If you have 8 volts input with 4 volts out at 2 amps then you have 1 amp in plus converter losses. If you have 4 volts in and 8 volts out at 1 amp you will have 2 amps in plus converter losses. Once that power is stored in the magnetic field in the inductor voltage and amperage are gone and you have the magnetic field strength which is converted back to different voltage and amperage. Power is what is constant less losses.
I have usef the vvgrand and buzzpro quite a bit these past two years (both use the same chip from buzz) and never had an issue.
I also dont get .... about swapping 1a and 1b as to which one goes on top. I just keep the matched pair together and let the radomization of which I put in the top slot depend on which batt I grab first.
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I also dont get .... about swapping 1a and 1b as to which one goes on top. I just keep the matched pair together and let the radomization of which I put in the top slot depend on which batt I grab first.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
LOL!!!!
"Redneck Arc Welder...""???!!
Great for those NR-R-NR "touch-ups"!!!
(* -- Carrying case NOT included....!)
"Redneck Arc Welder...""???!!
Great for those NR-R-NR "touch-ups"!!!
(* -- Carrying case NOT included....!)
Speaking of batteries ... Unfortunately (and typically) for me, the phrase "two 18350 batteries" rattled around in my head without really registering for a couple of days after I ordered my VVG, so now my pretty new REO is smiling expectantly at me from the coffee table, but my new batts won't be here until Friday. My derpitude runneth over - again. I do have a couple of 18350 Efest IMR flat-tops that I bought a year or so ago. I haven't paid attention to the rotation, but I hardly ever use them, so while one may have been cycled more often than the other, I doubt either of them has been cycled more than 6 or 7 times. When not in use, they are properly stored in a case and not allowed to wander about. Provided they both meter out OK off the charger and I keep an eye on their respective discharge rates, they should be okay to use until my new batts get here, shouldn't they? Will flat-tops even work?
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