vv/vw devices that go above 15w?

[slix]

Hi there, newbie here.

So obviously there are some cool regulated mods out there that go above 15 watts. All the dna 30 mods for example not to mention the ipv 50w which is pretty awesome. My problem with the ipv (and the dna 30s) is that they're only variable wattage. Obviously volts and watts are proportional but i'd still like the option to mess with both. Still haven't seen a device that has vv AND vw that goes above 15watts. Now I don't think I need 50w but having the option to head towards 30 would be nice.
Oh and one more thing about the ipv is the size. It really is comparable to most of the dna 30s but the hana mods mini or the vapor shark are just so.... tiiiiny! Not a deal breaker I suppose but size does matter
Any products I missed?

Thanks for your time

 

[Sthur]

Evic Supreme is a 30 watt device and does vv and vw.

Joyetech Joye eVic supreme Kit

I might still buy one, but my dna is working great right now.

 

[slix]

Wow up to 5 ohms! thanks!! I am still pretty torn though, considering the ipv2 is like 50 bucks cheaper

 

[Budkiss]

i LOVE my iPV2. Best vape decision i made since giving up smoking

 

[monikaedv]

Just curious: What does it mean to vape at so high watts?
I mean, according to the well known vaping chart, juices burn from 10 watts and up, so what is this???

 

[Vish1989]

I believe the new VariAnt by Vicious Ant would suit your needs can't post link to it but google it.

Ps start saving!

 

[slix]

Just curious: What does it mean to vape at so high watts?
I mean, according to the well known vaping chart, juices burn from 10 watts and up, so what is this???

Are you sure about this? Haven't seen that chart but i've been enjoying vaping at 15-20 watts with it certainly not tasting burnt. I can imagine it would start to burn at higher power but considering there are all these mods that go to up 50 watts it doesn't make sense it would happen at 10w.

 

[slix]

Or this VariAnt that goes to 120w! hOLY cow! Thanks for that vish lol. I suppose I should have mentioned that price IS an object Not to mention it looks rather hard to find.

Still considering the iPV2 although if I am going to skip the variable voltage I might go with the hana modz mini from fasttech. Anyone had any luck there? I'm not worried about the battery size, when I'm not near a computer I usually have a portable power pack with me. And the tininess at half the price of the iPV is hard to pass up

 

[monikaedv]

Are you sure about this? Haven't seen that chart but i've been enjoying vaping at 15-20 watts with it certainly not tasting burnt. I can imagine it would start to burn at higher power but considering there are all these mods that go to up 50 watts it doesn't make sense it would happen at 10w.

I'm not sure about anything - just confused
This is the chart and people refer to it everywhere, so I thought it had to be right. But maybe there's something else about the big mods that make such high watts possible... some kind of cooling element???

How does it feel to vape at 15-20 watts compared to 6-9? When I've tried vaping at 9w everything burned

Edit: that picture went really small when I uploaded it, but there are loads of them here: https://www.google.no/search?q=vaping+chart&espv=2&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=l03dU_afKaS9ygPT84DwAg&ved=0CBsQsAQ&biw=1309&bih=668#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=yuOyoQhwi7z6jM%253A%3BGEWbeZpE9_7vhM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi.imgur.com%252FOhn8o.png%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.grimmgreen.com%252Fpost%252F30254919697%252Fvaping-power-chart-found-via%3B1154%3B689

 

[2buildawall]

I am also curious about vaping at a higher wattage. If I go above 3.8V (7.2W?) on my I taste MVP 2 with a kanger 3 tank (1.9A) it starts to taste burnt. What am I missing?

 

[GeorgeWachsmuth]

That chart only seems to work for clearimizers and the like. I don't even think it would be accurate for some of the "newer" generation devices like those using the Aspire new heads. It certainly wasn't accurate when I started rebuilding my Kanger head a while back. Today, I only use rebuildables....I NEVER vape at less than 15 watts. That includes those times I have rebuilt tanks to 1.8 ohms.

 

[monikaedv]

Yeah come on and explain it to us!

One more thing is this: Lots of folks say you'll ruin the USB ports if you vape a passthrough at 10w and up, so what is it about these things that make "everything" possible?

Edit: I wrote my post while you posted, George, so...

OK, I see that the Aspire Nautilus Tank doesn't have a wick, so maybe that's one reason for not burning? Do you make your tanks without wicks?

 

[GeorgeWachsmuth]

Well....what devices are we talking about? Each device type is different.

 

[Completely Average]

I'm not sure about anything - just confused
This is the chart View attachment 361502 and people refer to it everywhere, so I thought it had to be right. But maybe there's something else about the big mods that make such high watts possible... some kind of cooling element???

How does it feel to vape at 15-20 watts compared to 6-9? When I've tried vaping at 9w everything burned

Edit: that picture went really small when I uploaded it, but there are loads of them here: https://www.google.no/search?q=vapi...19697%2Fvaping-power-chart-found-via;1154;689

That chart is useless for anything other than over-the-counter premade single coil atomizers.

It's absolutely useless for dual coil atomizers which require more wattage, RBAs/RDAs where you're building your own coils, and subohming. It's useless if you're changing the gauge wire you use to build the coil. And it's useless if you're changing the diameter or wicking of the coil. Also the chimney size and airflow greatly influences the best wattage for a specific application.

How you build the coil makes all of the difference. If you're building coils with larger loops and more wick that delivers more juice then you can increase the wattage without burning the juice and create more vapor. If you combine that with a larger chimney and better airflow then you can really crank up the wattage and vapor production without burning the juice. But even dual coil tanks like the Aerotank and Nautilus can run at higher than 10 watts without burning. With nothing more than a slight alteration to the top rubber grommet on an Aerotank I can push it to 16 watts using the store bought replacement coils before it's burning juice.

 

[monikaedv]

Well....what devices are we talking about? Each device type is different.

Hehe... I don't know. I barely know what a mod is... Maybe you could just explain about one specific device...?
I'm just curious, so I don't need you spend a lot of time to explain though

 

[monikaedv]

That chart is useless for anything other than over-the-counter premade single coil atomizers.

It's absolutely useless for dual coil atomizers which require more wattage, RBAs/RDAs where you're building your own coils, and subohming. It's useless if you're changing the gauge wire you use to build the coil. And it's useless if you're changing the diameter or wicking of the coil. Also the chimney size and airflow greatly influences the best wattage for a specific application.

How you build the coil makes all of the difference. If you're building coils with larger loops and more wick that delivers more juice then you can increase the wattage without burning the juice and create more vapor. If you combine that with a larger chimney and better airflow then you can really crank up the wattage and vapor production without burning the juice. But even dual coil tanks like the Aerotank and Nautilus can run at higher than 10 watts without burning. With nothing more than a slight alteration to the top rubber grommet on an Aerotank I can push it to 16 watts using the store bought replacement coils before it's burning juice.

OK, I see (I think). Thanks for explaining
I guess the 50-120w mods probably require tanks with gigantic coils then?
And they probably drink juice like horses?

 

[Budkiss]

I have the IPV2 and thoroughly enjoy the versatility of it. I have several different RBA and RDA and everything i build from single mico coils to dual twisted 28 gauge. I build from .8 ohms to 2.9 ohms and can adjust for juice consistency and nic level because of the VV/VW

For instance. Today I have a single 1ohm coil (2mm diameter with 28 gauge twisted kanthal) in my kaiser RBA and running it at 16 watts (which is 4.2 volt).

The thing i like about the IPV is you can simply increase or decrease wattage and the voltage changes too. If i refer the the safe powering chart i can find the green area (aka "sweet spot") and then adjust slightly up or down for taste and cloud.

When I had my Vamo v5 it was VV and VW. I could run it in mean or RMS mode and make settings to read Wattage or Voltage. (bottom line as you adjust one the other follows suit). The only negative was it would not fire below 1.2 ohms and was limited to 15 watts.

 

[GeorgeWachsmuth]

Um....the two that I have that use USB charging are a Hana 30 watt clone..the other is a no longer used MPV 2 by Innokin. Both are fine when you vape them while charging at any setting. But they, like most devices, are not true pass throughs. When you vape....charging pauses and you are drawing from the battery. When you stop...its charging. Since its at rest more than when you vape, it will usually charge up to full capacity. It just takes longer than if you just let it sit and charge.

 

[GeorgeWachsmuth]

OK, I see (I think). Thanks for explaining
I guess the 50-120w mods probably require tanks with gigantic coils then?
And they probably drink juice like horses?

LOL....No...not gigantic coils. Still rather small.....but they are usually bigger than clearomisers and have much better wicking...which answers the other question. They do "drink" more juice usually.

 

[monikaedv]

Thanks George, now I'm much wiser!
The not-really-passthrough passthrough concept sounds really smart

I guess the 120w devices must make 10 times more vapour than you can possibly inhale...?

I vape 100% PG at 6w and I barely exhale vapour at all. Talk about stealth vaping