VV/VW mods reliability

[DaveP]

I still have my original(close to 5 years old) JoyTech eGo 650 battery and it still works fine. I use it as a stealth vape regularly. Not all eGos are equal, many are knock offs and junk.

I have 3 of 4 eGo batts that still work and a couple of look alike's that also work. The failure rate may include user abuse through dropping, etc. If you take care of any ecig, it will definitely last longer. My only gripe with high end Chinese is that you can spend $75 to $100 and find yourself buying again after 30 days if it croaks. A service department can put you back in operation for a small fee if there's one for your mod. If it comes with a one year warranty, you get that for free although it's rolled into the initial cost.

 

[mouth]

I have 3 of 4 eGo batts that still work and a couple of look alike's that also work. The failure rate may include user abuse through dropping, etc. If you take care of any ecig, it will definitely last longer. My only gripe with high end Chinese is that you can spend $75 to $100 and find yourself buying again after 30 days if it croaks. A service department can put you back in service if there's one for your mod.

That's the pet peeve I have I guess. I'm dropping close to $80 on my SVD and it would suck if it croaks in 30 days. But then again, my vendor provides me 6 month warranty so that feels a bit more reassuring.
I'm just very happy to enter the world of mods as of now
I bet later I'll get a few more and mech mods too. Feels like a natural way to go and explore everything

 

[yzer]

I started vaping with a mod so you could say I fall outside of the norm for device users. The first mod was an E-Power 14650. It's a fairly simple semi-regulated APV with removable 1100 mAh 14650 cylindrical Li-ion battery and 510 connection. I would compare the vapor performance with that of most similarly powered eGo rigs that were popular at the time. I used it every day for 18 months, quit smoking with it and it never broke. I still have the E-Power and it still works. I bought the E-power as a kit for about $45 and parts for two more back-up units for $25. I never used the two back-ups.

The next mod was a Sigelei Zmax V3 Telescopic. This is ruggedized and upgraded take on the Smok Zmax. I bought the kit for $74. This one is VV/VW and uses a choice of several battery sizes (18350, 18490/18500, 18650, 2x18350) which will change the length of the mod which varies between 100 mm for 18350 and and 127 mm for 18650. I have used it for ten months and bought a new Sigelei V3 as a back-up a few months ago for $42. Both Sigeleis still work perfectly and are my current mods.

So that's two Chinese made mods purchased as kits. They served me for vaping every day for two and a half years at an expense of $119. The back-up units that I never needed cost me an additional $67. Total Chinese-made mod cost for two and a half years was $184.

I buy good mods and take reasonable care of them.

I got what I paid for.

Yes, you can buy a Provari for $184 but not a Provari and a back-up. If what we are lead to believe about Provari vapor quality is true then the only suitable back-up for a Provari is another Provari. Two and a half years of Provari ownership would have cost me a minimum of $320 instead of $184 asuming I didn't buy optional accessories, extended warranties and had no break-downs.

What didn't happen with the Sigelei (or the E-Power)? The Sigelei 510/eGo threading didn't wear out. It's made from one piece of machined stainless steel (Provari is 510 only). The single multifunction button and switch didn't fail. The electronics didn't fail. Nothing failed. And VV/VW is intrinsically no more fragile than VV, just more convenient to operate.

 

[patkin]

Personally, I wasted money on the bells and whistles VV/VW. They sit in my backup drawer and I still use what you started with after 18+ months vaping they're still going great... that's saving. I seldom vape above 3.7 since I regulated my vapor type with my attys switching from 2.5/2.2 to 1.8 if I want warmer so see no point in going to bazookas now. I wish I had saved my money for what I was and still am happy with. My favorite batteries are the Joye C upgrades actually. I'm not impressed with my Vamo and since I got an ohm meter never take it out of the box I store it in.

 

[yzer]

I can add that there is no way I could go back to using the E-Power 14650. The vapor from a semi-regulated 3.7V rig running 1.7 to 2.0 ohms just doesn't compare to the vapor produced by the rock solid regulated VV/VW device. Running a little higher wattage made a huge improvement for me.

 

[Myk]

If you take care of any ecig, it will definitely last longer.

I forgot about that. My RN-4072's may be rough but at least 50% of the auto-bats still work right and the attys probably wouldn't look so rough if I had put them back in the box during my vaping layoff.

Personally, I wasted money on the bells and whistles VV/VW. They sit in my backup drawer and I still use what you started with after 18+ months vaping they're still going great... that's saving. I seldom vape above 3.7 since I regulated my vapor type with my attys switching from 2.5/2.2 to 1.8 if I want warmer so see no point in going to bazookas now. I wish I had saved my money for what I was and still am happy with. My favorite batteries are the Joye C upgrades actually. I'm not impressed with my Vamo and since I got an ohm meter never take it out of the box I store it in.

To tell the truth other than time of 18650 battery life and size of 3ml tanks and coil life of RBA that fit them I'd also just as soon use a C Upgrade for most flavors. If there's a clog go unregulated on a full battery to burn it off and then go back to regulated. I'm pretty much always in C Upgrade voltage range.

Although I do like the ability to fine tune voltage to flavor and with the big mods I'm much less tied down to a charger and syringe than I was with eGo's.

 

[DaveP]

I agree with yzer that you can pick and choose and find really good reliable mods that aren't Provari and still have reliability. My Sigelei Zmax looks and feels solid. I bought it for that reason ... it's stainless steel. The whole "buy a Provari" never ending discussion started way back when there wasn't much competition for VV. Now, there's VW competition that Provape hasn't yet seen the need to address, although I think they should at least be at the end of the design and testing stage by now and ready to release a VW mod.

The reason I walked out with the Sigelei was that I had an opportunity in a B&M store to hold, test, and examine the display stock for a good number of mods that I had on my short list. One was aluminum that felt cheap and lightweight. Another had a plastic adjustment ring that I knew would break in the first two weeks. Others had their own issues that made me lean toward the Sigelei.

It's easier to cull the competitors when you aren't looking at a web page with snazzy sales pictures. Buying in person is a good opportunity to have.

 

[mouth]

Well, a small update. Didn't have much luck with the SVD that came. It worked great with the Protank 2, when it worked. Exactly the thing I was afraid of - the button misfired from day one. It was very finicky with where to click it. Feels like it had to be dead center, but sometimes it didn't even fire there, sometimes it fired on the edges of the button, sometimes it fired then stopped then fired then stopped.. you get the point. Then the + button started acting the same way. Sometimes it worked no problem, other times I'd have to click it 10 times to register. All buttons had a nice click to them, but they just didn't work reliably. Feels like the fire button is a worse design than ego twists (never had a misfire on a twist). I contacted my vendor and I'm getting a refund. They could have replaced it for me, but I kind of lost faith in SVD.. Too bad because it looks awesome IMO, I love the stainless steel machinery, the menu system, the feel. One thing Innokin shouldn't have skimped on was the darn fire button.
At this point, I might get one from fasttech, at least I'll get it cheap that way. Or maybe go for Sigelei Zmax.

 

[SubHomer]

Check out tasteyourjuice.com as well as grimmgreen.com etc...watch some reviews. A lot of very good information to be had with the online reviewers. Good luck with your vaping journey!

 

[djsvapour]

My evic lasted 5 months. My Spinners have all done that and more.

'nuff said.

 

[Completely Average]

That's the pet peeve I have I guess. I'm dropping close to $80 on my SVD and it would suck if it croaks in 30 days. But then again, my vendor provides me 6 month warranty so that feels a bit more reassuring.

Keep that receipt.

I had two SVDs break on me in less than 6 months from purchase. Both are fire button failures. One I've managed to get working again, although I need to go back and resolder one of the wires. The other is just trash at this point, beyond repair.

When I opened up the SVD I found that the internal wiring is just twisted together and held with a tiny piece of tape. None of the wires are soldered together, so if it is dropped or shaken hard it's possible for the wires to become disconnected. I've only been able to reach two without destroying the SVD itself, so if it's not one of those wires then it's just broken. Also, the fire buttons themselves are really flimsy and easily broken. My wife's SVD tipped over on the desk and that little bit of a bump caused the fire button to be crushed in and it will not release.

Some people get them and use them for months without a problem, but it's very hit or miss, and there are a lot of broken SVDs out there.

 

[mouth]

Keep that receipt.

I had two SVDs break on me in less than 6 months from purchase. Both are fire button failures. One I've managed to get working again, although I need to go back and resolder one of the wires. The other is just trash at this point, beyond repair.

When I opened up the SVD I found that the internal wiring is just twisted together and held with a tiny piece of tape. None of the wires are soldered together, so if it is dropped or shaken hard it's possible for the wires to become disconnected. I've only been able to reach two without destroying the SVD itself, so if it's not one of those wires then it's just broken. Also, the fire buttons themselves are really flimsy and easily broken. My wife's SVD tipped over on the desk and that little bit of a bump caused the fire button to be crushed in and it will not release.

Some people get them and use them for months without a problem, but it's very hit or miss, and there are a lot of broken SVDs out there.

Yup, like I said, it's going back xD
I think it's just a bad design decision that's just waiting to fail be it after a month, 2, 3 or 6. Not going back to SVD...

 

[Completely Average]

I just took the one I repaired back apart. I didn't do such a great job the first time I soldered the wire so it wasn't getting the power it should.


Anyways, I took some pictures to show you what I don't like about the design.

First, the SVD body.

As you can see, the top is a little chewed up. I figured since it was broken I couldn't make it worse, so I tried using vice grips to get the top off, but no good, Just chewed up the metal.


Next, I used a really long, skinny pair of pliers to pull out the plastic cap that the battery connection is mounted in.

Gently pull that cap straight up until it comes out of the tube.

With the cap removed you can see a major problem. The wire isn't a single piece, it's two wires spliced together. In this picture you can see the tape from my previous repair. The way it comes from Innokin those wires are simply twisted together, NOT soldered, and held in place by a 3mm wide strip of tape.

With the way Innokin assembled it, any sudden shock or hard shaking could cause the two wires to disconnect from each other.

Also, it's impossible to get any farther inside the tube without breaking the device. There is a thick plastic part that blocks almost the entire tube except for a couple of holes for the wire and assembly tools.

I don't like the fact that the wires aren't soldered together, and I'll bet the same applies to the internal wiring as well. Also, because that plastic piece is in the way in the center of the tube you cannot get to the fire button to fix or replace it should it break. What it means is that if there is a failure then it's almost impossible to fix it.

 

[Agnes Black]

I'd like to eventually get a Provari, but the build quality on the Innokin products seem to be awesome for the $$$. I got an MVP 2.0, baby it, and have a 1100 mah eGo passthrough that has so-so build quality (the 510 thread ring has already come loose from the battery end, had to gently push the parts back together). Most of my coworkers use Innokin, either MVP's or VTR's with a pretty high success rate. The key is NOT TO DROP IT LOL

 

[mouth]

I just took the one I repaired back apart. I didn't do such a great job the first time I soldered the wire so it wasn't getting the power it should...

Nice pictures! Useful stuff.
Yea, to get to the PCB inside the SVD, you have to go and pull the top part off.
Here's a bit more detail:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...scussion/489011-dissasembling-itaste-svd.html

The micro switch on the PCB is just a bad idea and prone to failure.

 

[jimbill]

Innokin used the smallest and cheapest tack switch on the svd i ever seen on a mod. I only got little over two months from my switch before it stopped working.Maybe you can send it back and get a vamo they are pretty reliable i can say mine has been working like a champ for over a year now.

 

[yzer]

Sigelei Zmax Telescopic V3 or V5.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ic-flat-top-other-reports-one-week-later.html

 

[serenity21899]

Well, you don't have to buy 20+ mods like some of us do. For me it's a hobby, so I collect them. However, you can save money if you want to.

An MVP, for example, is about the same price as a carton of cigarettes in my part of the world. So, even replacing them once in awhile is cost-saving.

 

[3kudx]

i had a vamo v2 and it work great because it is vv/vw but the downside is the 510 thread .. very soft and now i cant use to screw any of my tank ..

 

[yzer]

i had a vamo v2 and it work great because it is vv/vw but the downside is the 510 thread .. very soft and now i cant use to screw any of my tank ..

510/eGo threading on Sigelei Zmax V3 or V5 produced since last fall are made of one piece of machined stainless steel with a removable top cap..