unfortunately for me the vamo v2 i think is not ss .. and ive been using taifun gt and i think due to the weight of it disrupt my 510 thread .. no need to save some cash to buy dna30 mod
VV/VW mods reliability
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FWIW--I have Ego-C Twists, Vision Spinners, stainless Sigelei Zmax mini and a mini ProVari. I use them all, I like them all, never had a problem... Maybe I'm just lucky.
I did kill 2 Rivas, years ago, when I was testing a bad batch of Truman's cartomizers--but it was the shorting cartos that were the culprit, not the batteries.
I did kill 2 Rivas, years ago, when I was testing a bad batch of Truman's cartomizers--but it was the shorting cartos that were the culprit, not the batteries.
once you buy mods you cant save money? I wish someone would have told me that. What am I gonna do with this $4500 now?
I was simply going on the fact that people say you save money in the long run when you buy a mod. Doesn't seem so to me since most of them can't seem to last a year. Ofc, Provari would definitely last but chinese mods have a tendency to fail one way or another within a year. I haven't even spent a day with SVD and it already started acting weird with the buttons.
Sad that they didn't use an appropriate connector for the heaviest amp load in the device! Twisted and taped is not acceptable from the factory, IMO. Crimping a quick disconnect on wouldn't seriously affect build cost.
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I totally agree, but I suspect they didn't want to spend the extra penny and 1 minute of extra time per unit to do it. It's just shoddy work, and it creates a potential short with the body if the wires disconnect. That could cause the battery to overheat and possibly catch fire, which is totally unacceptable in consumer electronics. It shouldn't be allowed to be sold built the way it is.
I've been considering a Vamo V5 as a possible replacement for the SVD that is still broken, but I'm thinking that if I'm going to spend that kind of money again then I want to take a step up, not a lateral move. I'm not desperate to replace it at the moment though, I'm doing fine with what I have. (Halo Triton with VV battery). I'm not particularly mod-crazy.
Besides, my wife won't let me spend more money on gear right now.
I don't get that either. If it costs 2¢ extra even 10¢ more to the customer isn't a big deal and it's a healthy profit margin. Yet my first HDTV was known to have bad capacitors (that I didn't know about when I bought it). They probably saved a few cents per TV and are now not making TVs that I know of. Penny wise, pound foolish.
I spent about $5 including shipping to buy a capacitor and fix the TV to get another year out of it (before another cheap part burned up). I would've spent that same $5 extra to buy the TV.
Innokin being cheap like this with an SVD has me second guessing getting a VTR or another SVD at least until I see how long it lasts. Although I'm buying local and he said he gives a warranty, which for the price he should be able to eat a few giving out replacements.
For the Vamo threads, get an eGo thread beauty ring to give the base of the atty more support, adjust the beauty ring up so you just make contact (this also keeps from pushing the pin in). Even if the threads were strong you're going to have a weak spot with a 510 connection/threads and something is going to give. There's too much mass and too little connection.
On my SVD I unscrew the supplied ring up to meet the atty. On a V3 I tried that but like the looks of an eGo ring better, same with eVic.
On my SVD I unscrew the supplied ring up to meet the atty. On a V3 I tried that but like the looks of an eGo ring better, same with eVic.
I've had a VMAX since they first came out and it's still in daily rotation. Granted, it shares the load with a bunch of other devices and I am not hard on my hardware, but it's been a good solid device by any measure. I didn't buy it to save money, though. For me it's all about power, battery life and battery capacity display, areas in which the ZMAX easily beats an eGo.
I probably could have used two or three eGos for the past two years instead of the ZMAX for half the price, but I'm definitely willing to spend just a little bit more for a better vaping experience.
I probably could have used two or three eGos for the past two years instead of the ZMAX for half the price, but I'm definitely willing to spend just a little bit more for a better vaping experience.
Compared to what my wife and I were smoking before I could buy a new Povari once and month and I would still come out ahead.
I'm kicking around the idea of making my next mod a Billet Box.
Was there a question to be answered, or was that just a rant?
You can get into vaping as shallow or as deep as you desire. For many of us, vaping becomes a hobby as well as a smoking alternative. Not necessarily a bad thing, as the hobby aspect can help keep you off of the smokes.
You often get what you pay for. Consider the source of the majority of vaping gear. China. Some manufacturers make decent quality mods. Innokin is one of them. I often get criticized for bringing up that when you purchase any Chinese mod, you need to understand that there is no option for repair once the warranty expires. China makes mods cheap so that you can buy them cheap. If it breaks, they expect that you'll buy another. Just know that when you buy one of their mods, hope that it lasts as long as you expect it to.
The above is not racist or nationalistic. It's just a fact of their business practice and philosophy. Chinese manufacturers could make a durable and dependable mod like a Provari, but it likely wouldn't sell because the price would be nearly as much as a Provari...again, without the option for repairs post-warranty.
Could not say it better. You get what you pay for which may be what you can afford. Certain bargain basement mods are very well built and are long lasting. Other even medium priced ones are not so hot. Keep this in mid however. You can lose or destroy a Provari just like anything else. I would rather misplace or have stolen a $40 mod than a $200 one. At least until they have mod insurance available.
I'm thinking of trying the Sigelei Zmax V5 after a bad experience with SVD.
I like the looks of the gunmetal version.
Whaddaya guys think? Could Zmax restore my faith in VV mods?
I like the looks of the gunmetal version.
Whaddaya guys think? Could Zmax restore my faith in VV mods?
Well I have a MVP V1 that still works great. When it dies I will replace it. It's just a handy box mod especially when traveling.
The VTR looks cool but it's too heavy for what it is.
My only other VV mod is my SS Vamo V2 that's almost a year old and still kicking. I use that for my huger ohm builds and it's usually next to the bed.
I think the next purchase will be a DNA30 mod, just haven't seen one I like enough to jump on a preorder yet.
The VTR looks cool but it's too heavy for what it is.
My only other VV mod is my SS Vamo V2 that's almost a year old and still kicking. I use that for my huger ohm builds and it's usually next to the bed.
I think the next purchase will be a DNA30 mod, just haven't seen one I like enough to jump on a preorder yet.
I'm thinking of trying the Sigelei Zmax V5 after a bad experience with SVD.
I like the looks of the gunmetal version.
Whaddaya guys think? Could Zmax restore my faith in VV mods?
I don't really see a huge difference in the vaping capability of my Provari vs my Sigelei Zmax. The Zmax with an 18650 battery installed is about 3/4" longer than my Provari with the same Protank installed and they both use the same lMR batteries. I'm a stickler for not having to keep several sets of batteries around that aren't interchangeable. My Provari sounds a little smoother if I hold the drip tip to my ear and press the fire button, but most would say they sound the same. The Zmax has just a little more rattle due to the lower frequency PWM oscillator, but there's no difference in the vape.
The fit and finish of the Zmax is about the same as the Provari. I don't run the telescope feature of the Zmax back and forth since I use 18650 batteries exclusively, but it's nice to have the option to use 4 different battery sizes in flat or button top.
One thing for sure, I won't buy another aluminum body mod. SS has sold me. No dents and few scratches if they get dropped. The Provari has proven its ruggedness by surviving multiple drops on the driveway. So far, the Sigelei hasn't had that happen, but it's stainless and pretty hard nosed, too. The difference would be in whether the electronics survived. The tubes are similar enough.
I'd buy the Sigelei Zmax again after owning and using it for about 6 months. That said, the evolution of Chinese mods has brought many of them to the point where you have a lot of choices for VV/VW.
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It seems like a year is the magic number for a lot of low end mods in my opinion. My Sigelei zmax suddenly won't work anymore it's been about 15 months but my official vmax lasted 2 years now the button is glitchy but it still works. I had a k100 lady about 9 months before the threading gave out on me.
And I had egos that lasted just as long of not longer. But I would rather not have to charge every six to twelve hours.
So mods are the way to go. I really wish I would have just bought the provari instead of a bunch of $50 mods cuz it would be still going with no problem
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And I had egos that lasted just as long of not longer. But I would rather not have to charge every six to twelve hours.
So mods are the way to go. I really wish I would have just bought the provari instead of a bunch of $50 mods cuz it would be still going with no problem
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Someone posted about ordering a new fire switch for their Sigelei Zmax after it got finicky. They showed some pictures of the old and new buttons, with a link to the electronics parts company where they bought he switch. It's pretty much the same switch that comes on any decent electronic device these days. It's flat pack mounted onto the circuit board.
Fairmana posted some disassembly pictures from his Sigelei Zmax repair on the pages below. Interesting stuff.
Here's the post where Fairmana talks about replacing his Zmax V3 switch and the 2nd link lists the part number and source where he ordered it. You may have to scroll up or down a little to see all the discussion.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...r-reports-one-week-later-21.html#post11609693
Source of the part number from Digi-Key is in the hyper link in this post
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...r-reports-one-week-later-21.html#post11612797
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After running my Sigelei Zmax Telescopic V3 every day for seven months I bought a second for a back-up. Now I've been running the first Sigelei every day for ten months and the second for three months. I've gotten lazy. I keep one sized for 18500 and the other for 18650. I use 18500 mostly. The V3 measures 110mm long with 18500.
Funny, but I used my Sigelei all day yesterday with a Protank on it and then changed to the Aspire. I sat down to watch TV and it started firing intermittently. I looked at the switch and it was offset toward the atomizer side of the window. It fires perfectly if I press on that side of the switch or press it toward the atomizer.
The Aspire certainly has much more robust flavor than the Protank. I had forgotten just how good the Evod and Aspire can be. It puts real meaning into "taste your juice".
The Aspire certainly has much more robust flavor than the Protank. I had forgotten just how good the Evod and Aspire can be. It puts real meaning into "taste your juice".
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