wana get a mechanical mod, need suggestions

[Stinkytofus]

i have a few in mind but open to suggestions:

1. nemesis authentic mod vs nemesis clone

my friend says no point getting the real when the clone is better, true false?

2. cartel clone

friend said he is selling these fast, but read some reviews on eggicity, some good some bad, im mixed on this so far because there is no locking option

3. what is a kick ? do i need it?

4. skeleton key mod

friend said the quality on this is awesome

5. 4nine clone

saw a video for this, its compact, has a magnetic bottom, but the top part seems like it could get annoying and cant screw it on too tight

6. kindred clone

didn't read or watch reviews yet but friend suggested this as well, any thoughts?

7. overdose clone

same as kindred, didn't read or watch reviews yet but friend suggested this as well, any thoughts?

8. 28650 mods suggestions

or should i stick to 18650 mods for the compactness vs greater battery capacity?


if you guys used these clones or authentic versions, your feedback is greatly appreciated
feel free to suggest more mods, i think based on a little more research and what you guys suggest

i will mostly be using aspire nautilus for low wattage and cooler vaping, probably pickup a kayfun as my rta, and i have a clt infinite as my rda, im also open to other atomizers that are as good or better than kayfun and other rdas that are better than infinite

thanks

 

[boomhower1820]

So far my favorite mod by far is the Stingray X clone by Infinite. Absolutely love it.


Sent from my iPad Mini using Tapatalk HD

 

[edyle]

2 points became important to me after I got my first mech:

1: threading.

My vamo and sigelei both have M21x1 threading, so I was fortunate to discover that my chi you mech uses the same threading;
The nemesis is a popular mod but it seems to use an unusual thread size.

M20x1 seems to be popular among mechs.

2: bottom switch mechs:

a bottom switch mech makes for simplicity, but there's a safety issue when your battery gets a tear on the side and bypasses the switch



As for a kick, its worthwhile getting a mod that comes with an optional kick tube so you can add a kick module if you want.
You can get a regulated volts or watts kick plus you get basic protection agaist shorts etc.

 

[tj99959]

There are lots of good choices ......... and some bad ones too.

The best one is the one that YOU like best.
My favorite (used as a pure mechanical) is my brass Caravela.
My favorite (used with an Evolv Kick-2) is my Nemesis.

How I use it changes which is my favorite.

 

[sos2001]

I recently got the HCigar Stingray. Has a tube for the kick. Got it over the Nemesis because it already has a magnetic switch. For a clone, it is machined very well. If you didn't know the sections were there, you could not tell. I've been told that if you get a clone, stick to Infinite, HCigar, or EHPro. Stay away from "no-name" clones. Again, that advice came from the vets.

 

[jaxgator]

3. what is a kick ? do i need it?

Here's a good explanation...

The Kick 2 By Evolv

The Kick 2 is a power regulated digital switch-mode DC-DC converter for personal vaporizers in the form of a drop in module. It features controlled power from 5 to 15 watts and runs from a single lithium battery. It works in exactly the same way as the original Kick but boasts a higher maximum power and employs synchronous rectification for superior efficiency. The Kick 2 also boasts mod resistance compensation to ensure a more accurate power delivery.

The Kick 2 performs essentially the exact same Power Regulating function as the Darwin. Kick is a smaller version of the microprocessor electronics and programming as used in the Darwin. Power Regulation is exactly what the name implies – regulates the overall power (watts) output. Watts are the overall power output in any vaping combination of volts, amps and resistance (atty/carto ohms). The Kick 2 detects the resistance of any atty/carto attached and automatically, and continuously, adjusts the volts and amps to deliver the user set watts level. Power Regulation provides the same power output (watts) even if the user changes resistance (different atty/carto). Boosted Power Regulation automatically compensates for any fluctuating variables, like battery drain curve and atty/carto resistance fluctuation (usually lowers over the life of an atty/carto) and thereby provides consistent overall power output (watts).

Output Power: 5 Watts to 15 Watts
Output Voltage: 2 Volts to 6.3 Volts
Output Current: 6 Amps
atomizer resistances: 0.5 Ohms to 3.3 Ohms
low battery cutoff: 2.7 Volts loaded

 

[Scy123]

Id get the clone first before an authentic. I was careless with my first mech mod and stripped it out pretty badly. Plus you can see if you like the style they use, with the firing button and 510 pins. Some will have no locking mechanism like you said and might be weird to push on cause the button is recessed. Also some have floating pins vs screw type. The screw type pin might be a pain if you plan on changing out atomizers often, I've never tried one with a floating pin so I can't comment, but youmaybe find that you dislike it.

Fasttech clones I would stay away from. My first mech mod was a fasttech clone, which is why it might of stripped out so badly.

Also remember to put the battery in negative first so that the mech body is negative and the button is positive. That will save you in case the insulator becomes damaged or melts if you leave it firing by accident.

 

[eratikmind]

I have 3 authentic Atmomixani Nemesis, which a vaping friend admired. As such, she purchased a Nemesis clone. Some 2 weeks later, she was ordering an authentic Nemesis from VapeRev.

The clones are fine, but there are subtle differences. Especially in the bottom button. Are the differences worth the extra monies? Only the individual can decide that.

 

[Baditude]

Silver Bullet mechanical. USA made, so if something breaks you can get it fixed by the manufacturer. Recessed side fire button is safer and more natural than a bottom fire button. Uses an 18650 battery. Kick sleeve is available should you wish to use a Kick and continue to use the 18650 battery.

 

[Maurice Pudlo]

2 points became important to me after I got my first mech:

1: threading.

My vamo and sigelei both have M21x1 threading, so I was fortunate to discover that my chi you mech uses the same threading;
The nemesis is a popular mod but it seems to use an unusual thread size.

M20x1 seems to be popular among mechs.

2: bottom switch mechs:

a bottom switch mech makes for simplicity, but there's a safety issue when your battery gets a tear on the side and bypasses the switch



As for a kick, its worthwhile getting a mod that comes with an optional kick tube so you can add a kick module if you want.
You can get a regulated volts or watts kick plus you get basic protection agaist shorts etc.

Batteries don't just get a tear. They are torn out of neglect or mishap such as a being dropped, or forced into a mis-sized or bent mod.

The first line of safety is drawn by the operator of the device. Any device when used outside its design envelope is unsafe at worst or simply unacceptable for the task at hand at best.

In no case should a mod of any type be used with batteries that are damaged. A torn battery sleeve can not be assumed safe in a device not designed to accept a battery so designed, period. Exposure of - contact metal may cause a short with little more than a thin bit of wire stuck in the battery well, or any of an infinite number of unimagined errors in use.

In the hands of an idiot, a bandaid can be used to harm someone.

Maurice

 

[Scy123]

The battery should not be able to bypass the switch if you put it in negative first. That way the body is negative anyways.

 

[Wraith504]

The battery should not be able to bypass the switch if you put it in negative first. That way the body is negative anyways.

Precisely. The body is negative, so if you have a tear and the battery is contacting the body of the mod the body has now become negative completing the circuit because your positive pin is in contact with the positive battery end. This will complete the circuit, bypassing the switch and cause an autofire.

 

[Scy123]

If you put your battery in negative first. The positive pin is actually facing the firing pin and not touching anything actually. Unless the firing button is engaged.

body being always negative and a tear making the body negative would not complete a circuit.

 

[Wraith504]

If you put your battery in negative first. The positive pin is actually facing the firing pin and not touching anything actually. Unless the firing button is engaged.

body being always negative and a tear making the body negative would not complete a circuit.

Battery with negative facing switch (bottom), Positive facing up (top to atty), positive contact pin is touching positive battery, switch not engaged, tear in insulation, mod becomes negative completing the circuit without hitting switch, congratulations you have autofire.

 

[Scy123]

Battery with negative facing switch (bottom), Positive facing up (top to atty)

That's what i was advising against. Putting the battery in negative first would make the negative facing the atty. unless you like to screw off the atty to put the battery instead of the bottom button.

Anyways don't get confused. Just make sure the negative is facing the atty and your good.

 

[Wraith504]

That's what i was advising against. Putting the battery in negative first would make the negative facing the atty. unless you like to screw off the atty to put the battery instead of the bottom button.

Anyways don't get confused. Just make sure the negative is facing the atty and your good.

I will advise against putting the battery in upside down.

 

[edyle]

Id get the clone first before an authentic. I was careless with my first mech mod and stripped it out pretty badly. Plus you can see if you like the style they use, with the firing button and 510 pins. Some will have no locking mechanism like you said and might be weird to push on cause the button is recessed. Also some have floating pins vs screw type. The screw type pin might be a pain if you plan on changing out atomizers often, I've never tried one with a floating pin so I can't comment, but youmaybe find that you dislike it.

Fasttech clones I would stay away from. My first mech mod was a fasttech clone, which is why it might of stripped out so badly.

Also remember to put the battery in negative first so that the mech body is negative and the button is positive. That will save you in case the insulator becomes damaged or melts if you leave it firing by accident.

You're assuming everybody inserts the battery into the top of the tube;
alot of people will insert from the bottom.

 

[Scy123]

With the positive facing the firing button the positive will never complete a circuit unless you were to fire it = more safe with the positive facing the firing button.

and yea if you put the battery in from the bottom of the tube negative first the positive will be facing the firing button.

 

[edyle]

That's what i was advising against. Putting the battery in negative first would make the negative facing the atty. unless you like to screw off the atty to put the battery instead of the bottom button.

Anyways don't get confused. Just make sure the negative is facing the atty and your good.

With a bottom fired mod:
If the insulation on the battery is torn on the side, the mod tube is in contact with the negative:
If the battery is normal orientation: positive up: the mod is shorted out.
If the battery is upside down: negative up: the mod will short out when you press the bottom switch.



The design of 18650 batteries really is not for a bottom firing tube; to do that you'd put a much thicker layer of insulation around the cylinder in the manufacture process.

 

[Scy123]

Yea I was just thinking about it. With a torn battery either way your screwed.