Watt meter

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Spacedoutart

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Just reread my post and realized it needed a better explanation... The in side should be connected to the positive and negative of the battery. The negative out side should be connected to the negative of your atomizer connection. The positive out side should be connected to the momentary switch and then to the positive of your atomizer connection. I hope this better explains it.
 

BJ43

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Just reread my post and realized it needed a better explanation... The in side should be connected to the positive and negative of the battery. The negative out side should be connected to the negative of your atomizer connection. The positive out side should be connected to the momentary switch and then to the positive of your atomizer connection. I hope this better explains it.

Thanks I will pull out the breadboard tonight and try it.
 

BJ43

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The two wires on the right say DC in and the two on the left DC out.
40027689.jpg


On the back you can see the two red are common.
40027689_1.jpg
 

WillyB

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My plan was to try and wire it to a dna and use it to set the watts.
Looks like it may be kinda tough to do in a mechanical fashion.

Looks like simply paralleling it on your DNA outputs ain't gonna cut it, so all that is left is to replace the leads to your atty with the unit itself. But that means it's always 'live'. Although the wires look beefy, I can't tell how it would handle a constant ~3 - 4A load and what kind of parasitic resistance it may add.

In theory this should work. The input/output wires from the WATT meter will replace your output wires from the DNA.

Watts_switch.jpg


Using a DPDT switch we now have 2 options. In the top position the terminals are shorted (red). When in that position we will be bypassing the watt meter, that is the vaping position. In the bottom position we are simply reconnecting the wires and now the meter is inline and functional. That will become your adjustment position. You could get fancy and use a center off switch if you like (not a bad idea).

Actually seems like a good way to do it. Hope I got it right. :)
 

Java_Az

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Since that watt meter senses off the ground you could run into trouble if you plan on using the case or tube as a ground. It needs to be a isolated ground coming off the regulator going threw the watt meter to the atomizer connector for a proper watt reading. Since the DNA is isolated already in how it is wired you shouldn't have a problem with it. But someone can run into trouble if using a different reg with the case as a ground

Hope you get it going soon and report back i am interested to see if it is a 99.9 watt or 999 watt as far as how it reads on the led.
 

BJ43

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Set it up on a DNA. The Neg in and out between the DNA and the atty connecter, the Pos off atty connecter with an on/off switch. Clic on pic for video.
It works? Volt and I think watts show up. At 4.3 v/7watts and at 5v/9watts. Have to fire the atty to get it to work. Will play around wit it and try other wiring schemes to see if I can get it to work without firing.
 

WillyB

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Set it up on a DNA. The Neg in and out between the DNA and the atty connecter, the Pos off atty connecter with an on/off switch. Clic on pic for video.
It works? Volt and I think watts show up. At 4.3 v/7watts and at 5v/9watts. Have to fire the atty to get it to work. Will play around wit it and try other wiring schemes to see if I can get it to work without firing.
You are trying to measure the load (watts consumed), "without firing" means there is no load to measure.

It also seems that in your method, the neg (current) is running through the meter at all times. There has to be some parasitic resistance involved. With my way once in the vaping/bypass mode the only additional resistance will be the wires. The meter is completely out of the loop. A good thing.

Good luck.
 

BJ43

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You are trying to measure the load (watts consumed), "without firing" means there is no load to measure.

It also seems that in your method, the neg (current) is running through the meter at all times. There has to be some parasitic resistance involved. With my way once in the vaping/bypass mode the only additional resistance will be the wires. The meter is completely out of the loop. A good thing.

Good luck.
Thanks WillyB, didn't have dpdt switch and just had to see if it would light up. When I said watts?, I had my doubts and now realize it is not displaying watts. It is a volt/amp meter. 1.5 ohm parasitic resistance.
 
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