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I think IMR is a protected battery. Sounds like "Internal M something Resistor" The eVic has protection in it's programing so it uses a Li-Ion unprotected battery.
Schnarph will be on soon. He the battery/electric guru and can explain it in a way you can understand. He can be as long winded as me. LOL. Not quite tho. He tries to shorten it. I like long winded thorough explanations of technical stuff.
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So do I, Rat... love science!
My educational background is as eclectic as my music selection...
My educational background is as eclectic as my music selection...
5
yeah my boyfriend is more of the electronics guy (he's a welder and had to take some electricity classes for his degree). He understands all of this much better than I do.
However, he doesn't spend any time on ECF and so I'm more up to date with what's going on and different ways people do things. When I find something interesting I share it with him.
yeah my boyfriend is more of the electronics guy (he's a welder and had to take some electricity classes for his degree). He understands all of this much better than I do.
However, he doesn't spend any time on ECF and so I'm more up to date with what's going on and different ways people do things. When I find something interesting I share it with him.
5. 8/25 - Ray said it perfectly, but Lithium batteries (in regards to vaping) can be a complicated subject. Some mechanical mods don't have room for a protected lithium battery, almost everyone uses Li-Mn in this case. Li-Mn is "safer", but all batteries are storage containers for condensed energy, like a pack of Mentos in a glass bottle of diet Coke. It's scary when you think about it.
The continuous amp output rating is very important; if you ask the battery for more amps than it can provide you're in the danger zone. Some protected batteries have a low amp limitation, making them unsuitable for the buck-boosting circuitry in many APVs, but not necessarily unsafe. Batteries with protection will simply stop functioning when they go over their limit. Unless you are going for coils under 0.5 ohms (stupid
), any Li-Mn battery rated for a continuous 10 amp draw should be OK. This is strictly going by the numbers and not accounting for defective products and poor QC. When buying Lithium batteries, it would be wise to avoid anything with "fire" in the name. AW and Efest are the best bets as well as a few others that may require you do some research as to the application like Panasonic, Sony, MNKE ($$), Orbtronic ($$$), Sanyo, and even Samsung. Anything but XXXXX-fire.
There are others on the market, but 2600mah is very good for a Li-Mn battery. Like many Li-Mn batteries, it's 10C rating is hefty.
I can't address the 2-wraps on mesh, it depends on the wire resistance. Sounds icky, I would go with thicker (lower gauge) Kanthal and make more wraps. JMO, YMMV...
The Eh batteries are OK. More mah is just that, they will last longer. I have the Efest 2600 mah batteries from VVV and EH 2000 mah as well, there is definitely a difference. The longest lasting batteries I have used in my APVs are NCR18650PD 2900mAh (hybrid), rated at 10 amp continuous discharge. There are batteries with higher mah ratings, but not by much.
There are battery protection units like the Vape Safe fuse, Short Stop, 2 cents for safety, and others. Like wearing a helmet while riding a motorcycle, the safety issues are up to the user.
The continuous amp output rating is very important; if you ask the battery for more amps than it can provide you're in the danger zone. Some protected batteries have a low amp limitation, making them unsuitable for the buck-boosting circuitry in many APVs, but not necessarily unsafe. Batteries with protection will simply stop functioning when they go over their limit. Unless you are going for coils under 0.5 ohms (stupid
), any Li-Mn battery rated for a continuous 10 amp draw should be OK. This is strictly going by the numbers and not accounting for defective products and poor QC. When buying Lithium batteries, it would be wise to avoid anything with "fire" in the name. AW and Efest are the best bets as well as a few others that may require you do some research as to the application like Panasonic, Sony, MNKE ($$), Orbtronic ($$$), Sanyo, and even Samsung. Anything but XXXXX-fire.
Efest 18650 2600mAh Li-Ion Flat Top Battery
There are others on the market, but 2600mah is very good for a Li-Mn battery. Like many Li-Mn batteries, it's 10C rating is hefty.
I can't address the 2-wraps on mesh, it depends on the wire resistance. Sounds icky, I would go with thicker (lower gauge) Kanthal and make more wraps. JMO, YMMV...
The Eh batteries are OK. More mah is just that, they will last longer. I have the Efest 2600 mah batteries from VVV and EH 2000 mah as well, there is definitely a difference. The longest lasting batteries I have used in my APVs are NCR18650PD 2900mAh (hybrid), rated at 10 amp continuous discharge. There are batteries with higher mah ratings, but not by much.
There are battery protection units like the Vape Safe fuse, Short Stop, 2 cents for safety, and others. Like wearing a helmet while riding a motorcycle, the safety issues are up to the user.
ICR = LiCoO2 (also called LCO)
IMR = LiMn2O4 (also called LMO)
IFR = LiFePO4 (also called LFP)
If you take away one thing from this thread, remember this: The term "IMR" simply indicates that LiMn2O4 is a major component of the cathode. It does not necessarily indicate that a cell has exceptional rate capability or improved safety characteristics, properties often incorrectly associated with cells with the IMR designation.
From:What exactly does "IMR" mean?
Thread in the CandlepowerForum
They go on into more detail about the differences between the three...
edit: and Schnarph is here with experience on his side.
I always seem to get caught posting...
IMR = LiMn2O4 (also called LMO)
IFR = LiFePO4 (also called LFP)
If you take away one thing from this thread, remember this: The term "IMR" simply indicates that LiMn2O4 is a major component of the cathode. It does not necessarily indicate that a cell has exceptional rate capability or improved safety characteristics, properties often incorrectly associated with cells with the IMR designation.
From:What exactly does "IMR" mean?
Thread in the CandlepowerForum
They go on into more detail about the differences between the three...
edit: and Schnarph is here with experience on his side.
I always seem to get caught posting...
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On the lighter side. 
A young guy from N. J. moves to Fla. He goes to a big "everything under one roof" store looking for a sales job.
The Manager says, "Do you have any sales experience?"
The kid says, "Yeah. I was a salesman back in New Jersey."
Well, the boss liked the kid and gave him the job. "You start tomorrow. I'll come down after we close and see how you did."
His first day on the job was rough, but he got through it.
After the store was locked up, the boss came down. "How many customers bought something from you today?"
The kid says, "One."
The boss says, "Just one? Our sales people average 20 to 30 customers a day. How much was the sale for?"
The kid says "$101,237.65."
The boss says "$101,237.65? What the heck did you sell?"
The kid says, "First, I sold him a small fishhook. Then I sold him a medium fishhook. Then I sold him a larger fishhook.
"Then I sold him a new fishing rod. Then I asked him where he was going fishing and he said down the coast, "So I told him he was going to need a boat, so we went down to the boat department and I sold him a twin engine Chris Craft."
"Then he said he didn't think his Honda Civic would pull it, so I took him down to the automotive department and sold him that 4x4 Expedition."
The boss said, "A guy came in here to buy a fishhook, and you sold him a BOAT AND a TRUCK?!"
The kid said, "No, the guy came in here to buy Tampons for his wife, and I said, 'Dude, your weekend's shot, you should go fishing.'"
A young guy from N. J. moves to Fla. He goes to a big "everything under one roof" store looking for a sales job.
The Manager says, "Do you have any sales experience?"
The kid says, "Yeah. I was a salesman back in New Jersey."
Well, the boss liked the kid and gave him the job. "You start tomorrow. I'll come down after we close and see how you did."
His first day on the job was rough, but he got through it.
After the store was locked up, the boss came down. "How many customers bought something from you today?"
The kid says, "One."
The boss says, "Just one? Our sales people average 20 to 30 customers a day. How much was the sale for?"
The kid says "$101,237.65."
The boss says "$101,237.65? What the heck did you sell?"
The kid says, "First, I sold him a small fishhook. Then I sold him a medium fishhook. Then I sold him a larger fishhook.
"Then I sold him a new fishing rod. Then I asked him where he was going fishing and he said down the coast, "So I told him he was going to need a boat, so we went down to the boat department and I sold him a twin engine Chris Craft."
"Then he said he didn't think his Honda Civic would pull it, so I took him down to the automotive department and sold him that 4x4 Expedition."
The boss said, "A guy came in here to buy a fishhook, and you sold him a BOAT AND a TRUCK?!"
The kid said, "No, the guy came in here to buy Tampons for his wife, and I said, 'Dude, your weekend's shot, you should go fishing.'"
It's the hybrid batteries that really confuse me. Even the IMR's "safer chemistry" is a relative term...
If you really want to be safe, make (or buy) a PUCK mod. They use standard Ni-MH rechargeable batteries. You can't use anything near sub-ohm coils that way, but it's a perfect mod for the vapocalypse. Ask liblue1, she's the resident PUCK master.
If you really want to be safe, make (or buy) a PUCK mod. They use standard Ni-MH rechargeable batteries. You can't use anything near sub-ohm coils that way, but it's a perfect mod for the vapocalypse. Ask liblue1, she's the resident PUCK master.
3 - 8/25
Hey, folks. Back again. I see you had an interesting discussion about batteries. Good reading...even though I don't plan on getting into mods.
Question for Liblue1...is that a customized mod or a homebrew puck in your avatar?
Hey, folks. Back again. I see you had an interesting discussion about batteries. Good reading...even though I don't plan on getting into mods.
Question for Liblue1...is that a customized mod or a homebrew puck in your avatar?
Thanks for the answers Schnarph!
From what I've read, they're all (IMR) hybrids... they use nickel to stabilize the LiMn2O4 batteries to improve charging cycle...
edit:which inhibits the IMR chemistry's natural overcharge protection...
So... Ray's got the goodies again? ;-)
From what I've read, they're all (IMR) hybrids... they use nickel to stabilize the LiMn2O4 batteries to improve charging cycle...
edit:which inhibits the IMR chemistry's natural overcharge protection...
So... Ray's got the goodies again? ;-)
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So if you want to go into re-building your own coils and save money look into temcoindustrialpower.com. I was able to purchase 100' of 32 gauge kanthal for $4 shipping tax and all. A typical coil takes 2" so that gives you about 600 coils, or .006 cents per coil.
Everything on E-poop showed at $15, guess I was looking in the wrong spot.
Paid $6 for 50' of 29g and from somewhere else paid $9.99 for an 11.75"x8" sheet of 316L SS400 mesh...
Wish I'd gotten the 28g, though...
Spent the day at the MN State Fair. The cool thing was that they advertised that vaping was allowed. Now I need a shower and ibuprofen.
Just some crazy old lady happily vaping away.
Just some crazy old lady happily vaping away.
1 wow u guys are quick to put up new contest i did not win last week how about this week? lol
So... what's the upside/downside of Ekowool, compared to silica?
It burns at a lower temp... I like the braid (assume it holds form better?)
I'm about to add some 28g kanthal and am curious about wick for my RDA...
It burns at a lower temp... I like the braid (assume it holds form better?)
I'm about to add some 28g kanthal and am curious about wick for my RDA...
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