Whats up with all the high wattage settings?
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regarding the bolded; it's simple, really. internal resistance. batteries don't just output what their charged voltage is. the voltage sags according to the load and the batteries load handling capabilities. so for example, a 5 amp battery might drop voltage quickly where a 24 amp lithium manganese battery might hold it's voltage within 1 deci-volt from resting voltage throughout it's output range on the same load.
now, i haven't looked far enough into the nivel chip in your semovar lately to remember if it can be set to voltage output, but if your running it in wattage mode, there's another thing to consider. as the element/coil is powered, it heats up. as it increases in temperature, so does it's resistance. as the chip monitors the resistance as an attempt to keep the wattage level, it would have to increase current by way of increasing voltage to keep the same wattage level.
so while your mech is battery voltage dependent and the voltage drops on that battery, the regulated mod would be monitored and adjusting (increasing) that voltage accordingly to keep the wattage level consistent.
so your nivel chip will keep a constant wattage while the wattage on your mech drops as soon as you hit the button and the initial surge puts a load on the battery. hence a smoother vape at the same calculated wattage. which of course is not the real time wattage throughout the puff or hit.
Interesting! The Semovar does check the resistance of the atomiser, in both VV and VW modes to see if it can maintain the desired setting. That means that if you swap atomisers to one with a markedly different resistance and the chipset detects it can't select voltages below 3.6V and you have selected 3.3V, instead of silently selecting a setting you didn't expect like other regulated mods, it throws an error. Busardo explained it better....
The voltage sag thing is interesting. It would be interesting to measure it. anyway thanks for the reply
The voltage sag thing is interesting. It would be interesting to measure it. anyway thanks for the reply
Very helpful, thank you!
Now, can you explain why using something like The Duke is so different when vaped at roughly the same setting? Is it because with two 18650 running in a series you don't get that voltage drop or is it because of the chip? Or both?
Now, can you explain why using something like The Duke is so different when vaped at roughly the same setting? Is it because with two 18650 running in a series you don't get that voltage drop or is it because of the chip? Or both?
no chip. it's basically a mech mod. high voltage + straight battery voltage = a very smooth, hard hitting vape. only regulation is a potentiometer. like a volume dial.
seems interesting, but (and without trying one), i think i'd highly prefer my REO grand. not having to drip all day to get a dripping quality vape makes for a very sweet setup. being a solid aluminum block machined to hold it's guts, makes it extremely durable.
seems interesting, but (and without trying one), i think i'd highly prefer my REO grand. not having to drip all day to get a dripping quality vape makes for a very sweet setup. being a solid aluminum block machined to hold it's guts, makes it extremely durable.
yep
Nope, 50/50
Not at all. Been using it this way since December. No heat, nothing. Battery lasts like it should and I haven't had any problems. It actually gets warmer charging it than when I'm vaping. One of my evods gets warm at the base, but only one of them.
And yes, I've seen the chart many times.
TBH, most of my coils read 2.4 or higher, but nothing over 2.6.
Plenty of others with the same experience.
I suppose in pretty cool climate you'd end up running more power; I live in 30 degree celcius climate; I bet you run a coil for weeks at a time on your evod.
what you are seeing is a higher watt usage due to increased wick capacity... larger amounts of cotton wicking being used compared to 1-2 mm silica. The larger the volume of a cotton wick can handle a higher wattage due to the increased surface area and heat sinking of the wet cotton. To heat up a larger volume of wet wick as compared to a smaller wick requires more heat ( watts) to result in an "equal" output in vapor in the time required to produce that vapor.
im on 24mg all day and start at 8 then end up at 9-9.5, I use ry4. if im vapeing any of my fruit flavours I wont go above 8 anytime as its just burnt. I really like a good throat hit but early in the morning I just cant cope that good with it lol.
I always let my juice flavor dictate my wattage. I have some so called "gourmet" flavors that taste burnt at anything above 8 watts, but some flavors need 9 or 10 watts to truly shine. I have never been that concerned with vapor production, but that's just me. Everybody has their own preferences. As long as you are vaping instead of smoking in my mind it's all just semantics.
I still have the original heads from my evods that I bought in July last year--I think maybe 2 or 3 coils have gone bad but I've replaced them with pre-wrapped ones from FT and replaced the silica w/cotton. I haven't bought a replacement head since November, I think. A dry burn and re-wick is all they need every 2 weeks or so.
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I still have the original heads from my evods that I bought in July last year--I think maybe 2 or 3 coils have gone bad but I've replaced them with pre-wrapped ones from FT and replaced the silica w/cotton. I haven't bought a replacement head since November, I think. A dry burn and re-wick is all they need every 2 weeks or so.
That's a bit confusing.
Do you run 10 watts on stock single coils, or do you run 10 watts on those rewicked coils.
All my coils are re-wicked, but about 6 are stock coils, and the rest I replaced with FT coils (2.4-2.6 ohm, even though they were advertised as 1.8). That's why I said in a previous post that the cotton may make a difference. Still, I didn't have any issues with silica coils that high, although the flavor wasn't great or as good as the cotton.
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