What am I missing?

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Baums

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Ok so in my not so interesting experience I have used a Vamo and then a Provari. I am now seeing these mods that go up to 100 watts. I just read a guy saying he uses a 1.4 ohm coil at 22.5 watts which if I look at a chart is about 5.6 volts. If I did that on provari on my 1.4 ohm coil that thing would burn up and certainly give terrible hits.

So, what am I missing?
 

TorontoOntario

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Probally airflow and wicking capability. Certain toppers are designed to take high wattage due to the air flow and wicking capability along with other various factors such as coil placement, resitance and atty your running. I run an authentic Tugboat at 85W-100w lol. The other dripper I kept after the sub ohm clearos came out is my fav, a Plumeveil. I put 120W-130W into that guy. I forgot about my flavour atty the Magma, she gets between 60-90W.
 

Rat2chat2

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I have not tried any of the big dogs yet but I love reading about them. I have never even gone below 1.2Ω. I just think it is awesome that there are so many different mods out today that give everyone the chance to conquer cigarettes and enjoy a healthier alternative. And I am also glad ecf is here so people can learn and be safe. Of course meeting strange people like me is just all a part of it.
girl_haha.gif
Just felt like throwing in my 3¢ (inflation).
 

WattWick

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Wire gauge matters a lot. Pre-built coils found in many clearos and such may use thinner wire. Thinner wire will heat up more rapidly and concentrate heat into a smaller area - drying out and eventually scorching the wick.

Wicking also matters. Rebuilders may tend to nitpick their wick building skills until they can deliver more liquids to their coils than your average pre-built wick. Thus - more liquid cooling opens for applying more heat without reaching 'dry hit' wire temperatures.

Also air flow as mentioned above. Which also cools the coil.

This is sort of a blanket statement and does not cover it all... I think.
 
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CharliesTheMan

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I have an IPV3 which is a 165 watt mod after the firmware update. I also have a Hex Ohm and Sigelei 100 watt mod but the sig was loaned to a friend that quit smoking cigarettes.

My daily driver setup is the IPV3 with a Tugboat V2 that runs at about 40 -45 watts throughout my day, I'm using 26 gauge coils at .4 to .6 ohm dual coil builds. But when I'm using different builds in my Darkhorse or Mutation X I sometimes run somewhere around 70 watts.

Even if I vaped at only 40 watts all the time, I would still want my high wattage mods unless they offered the same mod with the same features and chips but with less wattage. Right now I can buy a 50 watt sibling to my high wattage mods, that is missing some features and fixes, and may house one 18650 instead of two, for about $80. Or I can buy the 150 watt version with a lot of updates and improvements that's dual 18650, for about $90 or so.

The variable voltage and variable wattage features allow me to build with lower or higher gauge wire, and adjust the performance to match my build, ao I can get my wicking and coil surface area just right for my personal preferences and adjust my power to match accordingly, and use whatever wire I want. With a mechanical mod, I can get awesome performance if I build the right coil, but I'm limited to building with a resistance low enough to make the most out of the battery's limitations,

I used to wonder the same thing about the wattage race, but since I've become more familiar with regulated box mods and high wattage mods, I've found there's many reasons for buying the higher wattage mods that are on the market now, with headroom and wattage being on part of it.
 

novamatt

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Haha yeah. I rebuild on my Russian so I have some idea of what you're talking about. Still just seems like a lot of heat in that scenario I mentioned. I actually just ordered an istick just too fool around with and see for myself.

The Russian doesn't wick as quickly or provide enough airflow to keep the coil cool at anything higher than 15 or 20 watts. To compare it to something like a Lemo (if we're looking at tanks), the bigger deck on the Lemo gives you room to build a bigger coil (I use 1/8" there) which means you can fit more wick into it. It has bigger juice channels, so the wick can pull more juice, too. And finally, it has a much larger air pipe, so you can pull more air over the coil while you're vaping to cool the coil. I've seen people run a Lemo as high as 50 watts, although I keep mine around 25 (I was at 15ish on my Kayfun/Russians).

Most drippers take the same principles and push them even farther. With the right build, people are running their drippers at 75-80 watts, and some people even higher.
 

TorontoOntario

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The Russian doesn't wick as quickly or provide enough airflow to keep the coil cool at anything higher than 15 or 20 watts. To compare it to something like a Lemo (if we're looking at tanks), the bigger deck on the Lemo gives you room to build a bigger coil (I use 1/8" there) which means you can fit more wick into it. It has bigger juice channels, so the wick can pull more juice, too. And finally, it has a much larger air pipe, so you can pull more air over the coil while you're vaping to cool the coil. I've seen people run a Lemo as high as 50 watts, although I keep mine around 25 (I was at 15ish on my Kayfun/Russians).

Most drippers take the same principles and push them even farther. With the right build, people are running their drippers at 75-80 watts, and some people even higher.

When I pull it out I push 120W into my Plumeveil. .4 ohm, Gorilla Juice...epic.
 

sparkky1

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Haha yeah. I rebuild on my Russian so I have some idea of what you're talking about. Still just seems like a lot of heat in that scenario I mentioned. I actually just ordered an istick just too fool around with and see for myself.

Your Russian is a fine machine but if you want to taste performance like you mentioned earlier try one of these for a night and day difference...

Goblin RTA by Youde - Eciggity 26ga on a 2.3mm 1.2 ohm dual coil
 

tc1

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The amount of power you can send to your topper without it burning is going to depend on the type of atty, build (wick/coil), and perhaps even juice. Simply put, higher wattage vapers are using toppers that can withstand the increased power.

Now WHY do they do it can be numerous reasons or a combination thereof. Reasons like:

More efficient nicotine delivery (You feel the nicotine quicker and more intensely)
Allows some to vape lower levels of nicotine or less quantity of it
Warmer vapor
Increased vapor production


are probably the most common. Personally, I can't even vape at lower wattages anymore. It feels like I'm vaping air compared to what I'm use to.
 
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