What causes coils to fade?

[ian-field]

Wow. I guess I'm lucky with Chase here in the US since they tend to be over cautious and flag some of my own purchases which lock my card. If I leave the my state or travel too far from my usual places and then try to shop they will lock it and give me a call or text within 10 minutes to ask if I was the one buying something. It can be really annoying but I do appreciate the overactive fraud protection service they offer. If my card # is stolen, which has happened once, they do not hold me accountable, no matter the charge.

Last time I was in the local branch I spoke to the manager about this, I wanted either a no contactless card or the information on how to disable the pickup coil. When I pointed out that the contactless card made the PIN verification irrelevant - he just stared at me with a blank expression!

Last time I got issued a new card, I decided to "de-activate" the old one in the microwave, all the internal metal bits (coil etc) got hot and melted through the plastic - next time I need to make a note of where the coil is and hit it with a hole punch - that shouldn't affect the chip that is read in a card slot, but no pickup coil to power the RFID tranciever.

 

[AndriaD]

Wow. I guess I'm lucky with Chase here in the US since they tend to be over cautious and flag some of my own purchases which lock my card. If I leave the my state or travel too far from my usual places and then try to shop they will lock it and give me a call or text within 10 minutes to ask if I was the one buying something. It can be really annoying but I do appreciate the overactive fraud protection service they offer. If my card # is stolen, which has happened once, they do not hold me accountable, no matter the charge.

My bank is like that, too -- I can't use my debit card to send anyone money via Western Union... but when my numbers were stolen and a $50 purchase made that I was not responsible for, I had to sign some papers and let the bank notarize them and send them off to its fraud prevention dept, and my money was back in the acct the next day -- and I had a new card in 3 days.

Andria

 

[Tim Swan]

Juice starts to burn on the coil, causing a build up of gunk that does`nt vaporize as efficiently as it did new, the gunk and sediments act like a heat sink so to say, and eventually it stops vaporizing completely.

Since your coil use`s a silica type of wicking, it is possible that you could do some minor dis-assembly and do whats called a dry burn, this has the affect of burning all the gunk and sediment off the coil and returns it to a good (but not new) working condition. I`m sure you could find instructions for this by searching the forum. Turning it down even just a little bit may also extend the lifetime of the coil. Running clearer juices will also extend the life of a coil.

But in the end, they are a consumable part of the vaporizer and have to be rebuilt or replaced at some point. For the smaller Kanger style coils and using really dark juices (or high VG) that could be every other day for some vapors. For a rebuildable running a clear juice (or straight PG), that may be once a month.

:?)

I want to thank you for the tip. As soon as I read this, I looked at my Nautilus Mini and notices the juice had started to caramelize in color. So, I removed the tank and poured out ~ 1mL of liquid. Washed out the glass tank & chimney. Then I ran the coil head under warm running water for a few seconds. Put the coil back into the base and attached it to my Ipow 2 set @ 12 watts w/o the tank and fired it until it steamed for 2 seconds. Repeated once more and it's like a new coil head.

VHRB's advice is excellent except you don't need to search for instructions, he gave you most of them!. Take the coil out, dip it in water, put it back in the base and with the tank off, crank it on high until you don't see vapor. If the coil can be exposed, then pop the top off and burn it like that. When you see the coils glow red, you are done. If you need more water, repeat. Put some juice on it and replace the tank and you are good to go.

Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk

 

[GinnyTx]

I believe the technical term is "gunk"

the caramelized sugars in the juice collect and adhere to the material of the coil making it less efficient to vapor..er..no Gunked up 'bout covers it

we boil water then give the ones that we've taken out that aren't producing vapor as well or have a burnt taste a good long soaking and lay out to dry (dry burn if we have the time and lately that's been a no) and rotate them back through, until they taste really nasty then joyously throw them in the trash (Kanger dual coils anything from a 0.8 ohm to 2.0 ohm)

 

[ian-field]

I believe the technical term is "gunk"

the caramelized sugars in the juice collect and adhere to the material of the coil making it less efficient to vapor..er..no Gunked up 'bout covers it

we boil water then give the ones that we've taken out that aren't producing vapor as well or have a burnt taste a good long soaking and lay out to dry (dry burn if we have the time and lately that's been a no) and rotate them back through, until they taste really nasty then joyously throw them in the trash (Kanger dual coils anything from a 0.8 ohm to 2.0 ohm)

Having tried burning a few clean - I'd have to say there's more to it than that.

My experiments with cleaning disposable cartomisers were a dead loss, when I tried putting Liberty Flights Vivi-Nova V2 atomisers in the ultrasonic cleaner - the cavitation shredded the wick tails. The later model LF tank; the atomiser doesn't have any wick tails, so that might be worth a try.