What hardware are you using to get the best out of your aroma juice ?

[olderthandirt]

PWM, wave shaping, RMS, Vmean .....

Hey!
I gots me sum battrees whut go from 4.2 volts to 3.7 volts. And they be DC!!

That there sums up my elektrik no-ledge O-;

 

[Guttermouth]

Thanks Gutter! I watched and understood about a tad of it but my new mantra is PWM! PWM . I can say that I find the progression of science/technology in the vape world, to be really fascinating and exciting. I've only been around for the last year and a half and have been amazed and hopeful for the future. (Can only imagine being privy to the last 4 years. The stories of modded flashlights come to mind) . Amazing what happens when great minds come together. Bravo!

Just hooked up a "new" (classy) Svo. kayfun Lite. Just love the flavor production with these puppies. They are close, if not even with the Reomizer for flavor IMHO. Other than the WTA benefit of Aroma's flavors, I really enjoy the mature, complex qualities of their flavors,

I don't want to brag (because I know I'll be humbled) but I'm pretty nifty with these KFL's! (Oops...I did it. I'll await an ego evening moment). Plus, whenever I have difficulty or questions there a very active kayfun Lite thread elsewhere in the Forum.

Aaah yes... Modded flashlights, copper hexes and shopping for vaping supplies in the fish department...
There's some time periods I miss. That one doesn't make the list

It's funny you mention the kayfun lites. I've been digging them quite a bit here lately as well. I broke down and drilled mine out and i like it better all around than the 3.1 now. Drilling out an authentic would be a nervy operation fo sho though.gives me the heebeegeebees just thinking about it.
Interestingly enough,it seems like the coils and wicks tend to gunk up less in the lites for some reason.wonder what that's about?

 

[Guttermouth]

Gutter it's the same trend with welders. Smaller and lighter. I work on three phase units that put out 350 amps that I can pick up and sit on the bench where something like that used to weigh 3-400 pounds and didn't have near the functions the new ones do. On some you can do wave shaping.

Jeez - it's everywhere now,I guess.
From a welding perspective, what's the benefit of wave shaping?

 

[Guttermouth]

PWM, wave shaping, RMS, Vmean .....

Hey!
I gots me sum battrees whut go from 4.2 volts to 3.7 volts. And they be DC!!

That there sums up my elektrik no-ledge O-;

If'n them thar thangs give ma mouth licker a tangle when ah stick it to em,ah reckun theys reddy ta make up sum vapors!! If'n they don't, ah stickum in that thar hotbox fer anour er too and then they is.
Sum times,I wonder whut kinda magic it is at makes them tingle sticks get tingly. Then Ah get sum nic-o-teen in ma systems and ferget all bout the whos whuts and wize and do me some jumpin anda hollerin.

 

[hittman]

It allows you to control the heat input to the material. Pulsed mig and tig welding have become quite popular too. By controlling the heat input or pulses per second you can still put down a good X-ray quality weld and with thinner materials you can avoid warpage.

 

[Guttermouth]

It allows you to control the heat input to the material. Pulsed mig and tig welding have become quite popular too. By controlling the heat input or pulses per second you can still put down a good X-ray quality weld and with thinner materials you can avoid warpage.

Interesting. What is this x-Ray quality weld you speak of?

 

[olderthandirt]

If'n them thar thangs give ma mouth licker a tangle when ah stick it to em,ah reckun theys reddy ta make up sum vapors!! If'n they don't, ah stickum in that thar hotbox fer anour er too and then they is.
Sum times,I wonder whut kinda magic it is at makes them tingle sticks get tingly. Then Ah get sum nic-o-teen in ma systems and ferget all bout the whos whuts and wize and do me some jumpin anda hollerin.

Exactly.
Ditto.
Specially the jumpin anda hollerin part (-:

 

[Guttermouth]

Exactly.
Ditto.
Specially the jumpin anda hollerin part (-:

on a serious on topic note on that subject - i stumbled across a site selling nitecore d4's (the one with the crazy screen and auto detection and all that jazz) for 19 bucks last week and what a bad mammajamma of a charger that is- the ones i'd been using were...um... less than optimal.this thing just kicks major .... -all 4 of the slots are independent and according to the manual, can correctly charge different types and sizes in all the bays simultaneously. i tried it out this afternoon using an 18490,18350 and two nimh aa's and they were all done inside of 6o minutes.craziness.

 

[hittman]

Interesting. What is this x-Ray quality weld you speak of?

Depending on contract details or quality control standards some welded pieces may require X-ray testing to be done to check for flaws in the welds.

 

[hittman]

Also about the waveform shaping, it can allow a faster travel speed when welding and it eliminates the need for continuous high frequency when welding with AC voltage. HF can really goof up phone lines and such if equipment isn't properly grounded.

 

[Robinowitz]

It's funny you mention the kayfun lites. I've been digging them quite a bit here lately as well. I broke down and drilled mine out and i like it better all around than the 3.1 now. Drilling out an authentic would be a nervy operation fo sho though.gives me the heebeegeebees just thinking about it.
Interestingly enough,it seems like the coils and wicks tend to gunk up less in the lites for some reason.wonder what that's about?[/QUOTE]

Hmmm....can't say as I know why the authentic gunks more than the clone. Is it before or after you drilled? Understand about not wanting to drill the authentic. The first scratch I put on mine almost made me tear up.... I don't have trouble with gunking but I've always run higher PG, clear e liquid in it (P-38). I only have to change the cotton about every week. (I also like putting a "nest of cotton" on top of the coil for a bit more flavor). I know you are a VG guy out of necessity. Do you remove your air screw completely also?

You might consider posting that querie in the KFL thread? Seems like I saw it discussed there.

 

[Guttermouth]

Depending on contract details or quality control standards some welded pieces may require X-ray testing to be done to check for flaws in the welds.

wow.you learn something new every day.

 

[Guttermouth]

Hmmm....can't say as I know why the authentic gunks more than the clone. Is it before or after you drilled? Understand about not wanting to drill the authentic. The first scratch I put on mine almost made me tear up.... I don't have trouble with gunking but I've always run higher PG, clear e liquid in it (P-38). I only have to change the cotton about every week. (I also like putting a "nest of cotton" on top of the coil for a bit more flavor). I know you are a VG guy out of necessity. Do you remove your air screw completely also?

You might consider posting that querie in the KFL thread? Seems like I saw it discussed there.

sorry about that, robin. i was talking about too many things at once there again...
all my kayfuns are clones - i've been running the 3.1with the screw removed and the lite has been drilled out. the 3.1 tends to gunk up faster than the lite for some reason.i can get 3 or 4 days out of it most times whereas the 3.1 needs to be rewicked every other day at the least it's not enough to bother me just something i've noticed.
i've thought about buying an authentic lite as well but the prospect of having to drill it out has kept me from doing so.i'm glad to hear you're digging yours though - they are super nice atomizers.
i'll look into that thread - thanks for the heads up!!

 

[KGie]

One of these days maybe I'll get around to doing a chart that shows standard RMS watts (what everything but the iStick uses these days) versus what the iStick displays at various wattage increments for a range of coil resistances. Also be aware, at certain resistances it's not able to hit its full advertised range, both at the high and the low end. (Details in Phil Busardo's video linked below.)

Haven't done the chart yet, but based strictly on taste-testing over multiple days, 9 watts into 2.0 Ω on the iTaste V3 seems to be the equivalent of right around 6 watts on the iStick.

By the way, don't take that to mean you can simply dial your iStick to 2/3 the wattage setting you're using on a device that displays power in RMS: the closer you get to the iStick's (or any PWM mod's) upper limit, the closer the PWM setting will be to the now more-familiar RMS setting on your other mods. That's because as you up the wattage setting and the power approaches the max available, the waveform will spend progressively less time in the "off" part of the duty cycle, till it's basically a flat output. At that point, Voilà! -- the RMS calculated average equals the mean average. The flip side of that is that at lower power settings, the difference between what you set on your RMS-display devices and the iStick will be even greater than 2/3's. (Or 1/2, depending on which way you're looking at it.)

Also, don't confuse a mod that simply displays its output in RMS with a mod that actually has a flat output, that is, a mod that, instead of altering the all-on or all-off (i.e.duty) cycle of the signal, instead varies the voltage to change the power. (Technically even the mods with a flat output are probably using PWM, they just filter out the peaks and valleys so well the signal, for all intents and purposes, appears to be flat. This is much easier to do with a higher frequency duty cycle, such as used in the Provaris, and I believe the DNA 20's and now the 40's. The 30's actually had noticeable PWM. The Innokin iTaste VV V3's, MVP's, and a couple of other mods boast a flat output, the V3 probably being the cheapest and most fully-featured of that select group. Going forward, I think flat output will become the expected standard, especially in light of the intro of the Temperature Protected DNA 40, which I expect to be a real gamer changer.)

Which sort of brings me to why I started on that spiel: Has anyone who is switching back and forth between a flat output device and the iStick noticed a slightly different "flavor" with the iStick than the RMS device? I think I very well may, but because I'm not yet 100% sure that I'm using equivalent power settings, I'm not positive. (I've been called a super-taster, FWIW. I can taste a plastic flavor at the top of certain bottled water -- Poland Springs, Zephyr Hills -- but not others, e.g., Dasani. Supposedly the ability to taste that flavor is genetically determined.)

 

[Guttermouth]

Which sort of brings me to why I started on that spiel: Has anyone who is switching back and forth between a flat output device and the iStick noticed a slightly different "flavor" with the iStick than the RMS device? I think I very well may, but because I'm not yet 100% sure that I'm using equivalent power settings, I'm not positive. (I've been called a super-taster, FWIW. I can taste a plastic flavor at the top of certain bottled water -- Poland Springs, Zephyr Hills -- but not others, e.g., Dasani. Supposedly the ability to taste that flavor is genetically determined.)

i've noticed a sharper,"harder"? profile with the istick vs the provaris/mech/itaste etc.. all in similar voltage ranges.to be fair i notice the same thing with the vamo (in both modes)- they both seem to bring out more of almost a chemical taste in some juices.it may be one of those things where after you notice it, you can pick it out fairly easily with other devices.

 

[hittman]

I was running my nautilus mini at around 9.5-10 watts on a vamo and now on the istick I'm running it at 7 watts. As I dial the istick up I'm starting to see what you're talking about with the difference in power between the two types getting closer the higher you get.

 

[KGie]

i've noticed a sharper,"harder"? profile with the istick vs the provaris/mech/itaste etc.. all in similar voltage ranges.to be fair i notice the same thing with the vamo (in both modes)- they both seem to bring out more of almost a chemical taste in some juices.it may be one of those things where after you notice it, you can pick it out fairly easily with other devices.

Here's a list of mods with flat output from an ECF post by DAM718 posted just about a year ago (11/6/13); as far I know, it's still up-to-date. (The post is here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/variable-voltage-apv-discussion/487745-mods-have-absolute-dc-output-like-provari-3.html) and scroll down to post #28 (If you follow the link, be sure to check out the poster's title. The Vamo is not on the list, so it is also PWM. I've heard others saying they notice a difference too, and describe it pretty like you just did, GM. A likely explanation is that the peak temperature with PWM is higher than it would be with flat output of the same RMS wattage. Don't know if that's right or the whole story, but it makes sense.

One thing I find interesting about that list is that the Evolv 20 is on it, but its successor, the 30, isn't. The TP 40 (as I call the Evolv DNA 40 with Temperature Protection) can now be added. Plus in addition to temperature protection and a flat output, the 40 also has buck circuitry, so it can regulate below the battery voltage, which the 30 couldn't do either. I can't wait to get mine -- a combination of curiosity, plus trying what seems to be almost universally being acclaimed as the best vape anyone's had.

I'll trade a link to the kayfun thread for the links to two DNA 40 threads. (Not that you can't get them without me. lol) I want a Kayfun and I'm suffering from Kayfun Konfusion over which one to get. I'm trying to keep from Russian into a premature choice. (Ouch!)

 

[hittman]

The vamo I have can switch between the two modes. I think it's rms and avg. One mode seems hotter like the istick and the other seems normal like my other pv's.

 

[Guttermouth]

Here's a list of mods with flat output from an ECF post by DAM718 posted just about a year ago (11/6/13); as far I know, it's still up-to-date. (The post is here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/variable-voltage-apv-discussion/487745-mods-have-absolute-dc-output-like-provari-3.html) and scroll down to post #28 (If you follow the link, be sure to check out the poster's title. The Vamo is not on the list, so it is also PWM. I've heard others saying they notice a difference too, and describe it pretty like you just did, GM. A likely explanation is that the peak temperature with PWM is higher than it would be with flat output of the same RMS wattage. Don't know if that's right or the whole story, but it makes sense.

One thing I find interesting about that list is that the Evolv 20 is on it, but its successor, the 30, isn't. The TP 40 (as I call the Evolv DNA 40 with Temperature Protection) can now be added. Plus in addition to temperature protection and a flat output, the 40 also has buck circuitry, so it can regulate below the battery voltage, which the 30 couldn't do either. I can't wait to get mine -- a combination of curiosity, plus trying what seems to be almost universally being acclaimed as the best vape anyone's had.

I'll trade a link to the kayfun thread for the links to two DNA 40 threads. (Not that you can't get them without me. lol) I want a Kayfun and I'm suffering from Kayfun Konfusion over which one to get. I'm trying to keep from Russian into a premature choice. (Ouch!)

it wouldn't surprise me a bit if it was due to a notch on the front of the wave or substandard filter,a higher overall temperature,additive thermal retention or some combination of other weird variables. the theory says it shouldn't be noticeable or happening but the encoding on some cd's, e-juices and flourescent fixtures bother people too,so..the theory doesn't always line up with a universally acceptable experience (as shown by your plastic issue and mine with the aforementioned lights and artificial sweeteners). it sure would be nice to be able to just grab the cheapest,hottest pv with the most range and best battery life and be set for all situations though
i know of two other local guys that are the same way - one is a borderline luddite (he does try,though) and the other is just cheap.they've both spent hundreds of dollars on different devices looking for something that does the trick for them and in both cases, they've settled on provaris and mechanicals with kayfuns and are happy as clams. i don't know that either understands the theory behind why they don't like the cheaper/hotter devices ( interface issues not withstanding,of course) or that it really matters in the grand scheme of things but one of them bought nearly every pv on the market trying to avoid "spending that kind of money on a battery tube"and now has a provari glues to one hand and a magneto glued to the other.

actually, the semovar/nivel and new dna are both things that are on "the list" for me too the lack of buck circuitry and battery protection has kept me away from the dna's in the past.now that they've addressed those issues,it would be rad to have a dna40 in the istick form factor i.e., a vaporshark with a more ergonomic box.

on the kayfun issue, i've pretty much settled on the lite being my favorite of the bunch after it's drilled out and had an insulator spacer put in(funny enough, i talked to the local luddite guy today and he did the same exact changes and now has 4 of them )the 3.1 with a drop kit is a close second and the mini should only be looked at if you are a sadist.the russian and erlkonigin are both options in the same neighborhood but each seem to have their own issues.i think the lite is probably the best one to jump in with as it seems to have less leaking and gurgling issues out of the box (ime,anyway).
you might as well get comfortable :
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/436118-kayfun-lite.html

 

[Guttermouth]

I was running my nautilus mini at around 9.5-10 watts on a vamo and now on the istick I'm running it at 7 watts. As I dial the istick up I'm starting to see what you're talking about with the difference in power between the two types getting closer the higher you get.

i finally ran the istick down all the way today and it vaped like a champ with the kfl all day while i was out carving pumpkins - it seems to noticeably calm down and get closer to real world numbers after the battery gets about to the halfway mark.