New here, yet very concerned about safety. I don't drive much but am in the market for a car charger for my older iPhone 4S. I don't have a USB port so would have to use the cigarette lighter outlet. This prompted me to wonder if I could find some kind of set-up that would allow me to charge my Evic VTC Mini and/or istick TC40W for those times I might run out of battery life on either of these mods [not on a regular basis]. I've seen enough photos of burnt up car seats to know that I need to be careful. But I don't know if a regular old el cheapo cigarette lighter-USB port would be okay or if I would need something more like a Belkin or something else that is more capable [regulated?]. Can anybody help me choose what I need to look for. Or is this something not recommended at all? A friend just gifted me an inexpensive Delton 1 AMP/1,000MAH car charger but I'm not sure if it is okay to charge my devices. I have a dual charger at home for the one 18650 battery for the Evic-VTC Mini but the istick has an enclosed battery. Both have USB charging cables that came with them. Much obliged for any help here. I don't really have a B&M store to guide me and I'm on my own.
What, if any, car charger to use for either Evic VTC Mini or iStickTC40W
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I have an Anker 4 port charger in the car for phone and ecig from Amazon. Sofarsogood.
I bought a second X-Tar VP4 charger and permanently attached it to the shifter console and wired it directly to an unused relay circuit. Still then I rarely use it because even the best set-up can have a thermal runaway occur. It's always best to avoid charging in the car, but if you must do as much as is reasonable to reduce the potential for disaster.
It's one thing to have a blazing, out-gassing event in a large, stationary room and entirely another in the close confines of a fast moving vehicle that needs complete attention. Best is to bring a spare battery for whatever device, or extra charged and ready devices, or none at all and focus on the road and/or the typical distracted driver desperately trying to plug in his dying cell-phone while the lights turn red.
It's one thing to have a blazing, out-gassing event in a large, stationary room and entirely another in the close confines of a fast moving vehicle that needs complete attention. Best is to bring a spare battery for whatever device, or extra charged and ready devices, or none at all and focus on the road and/or the typical distracted driver desperately trying to plug in his dying cell-phone while the lights turn red.
The Delton should work fine.
I use a little cheap thing that plugs into the lighter socket and has USB outlets on it.
I use a little cheap thing that plugs into the lighter socket and has USB outlets on it.
Thank you, kindly, everyone. I agree that it is not worth a tragedy to have such a proposed convenience. I can always just charge up both mods and if needed, change over. I just wish that there was a "safe" battery for these things - and a safe way to charge them. I ALWAYS charge up my batteries while in the same room with them, never overnight and am cognizant that they are charging. I know it's a small percentage that blow up. I mean, I never think about my cell phone or laptop with any concern. But safety first, always.
IMR/INR chemistry is indeed the safer chemistry. ICR is the less safe type of cell in the size batts we use. IMR/INR vents wen its overly stressed. ICR and lipo explode. cell phones use lipo, laptops use a string of 18650 cells.
But the venting can get vigorous and hot and can cause a tube mod to explode from the pressure buildup.
So realistically, it should be totally fine with the 1A charger.
Thing is, there are a few safety features that, if they fail, could cause some trouble for you. The board itself (on the mod) regulates the incoming voltage through the USB charger. If that fails, it'll receive whatever voltage the charger is willing to put out, even if that's too much for the balance board. At 1A it shouldn't really pose a problem.
The real issue would be if the charger itself failed to regulate its outgoing voltage, and provided, say, 2A instead of 1A to your mod. Again, this should be caught by your board's regulation (ie: the mod shouldn't allow more than 1A through to the batteries) but you're banking on everything working good.
Personally, I don't charge anything on USB because in a perfect storm it'd cause some serious issues. That said, I hear less and less incidents of mods catching fire while using the onboard charger though, so I think the tech in the balance boards is a bit better than it was a year or so ago. Really, I'm just scarred because the IPV3 had an "onboard charger" that was utterly awful. Just like, really shoddy and virtually guaranteed to cause problems if used regularly. Since then I've just skipped onboard charging.
Thing is, there are a few safety features that, if they fail, could cause some trouble for you. The board itself (on the mod) regulates the incoming voltage through the USB charger. If that fails, it'll receive whatever voltage the charger is willing to put out, even if that's too much for the balance board. At 1A it shouldn't really pose a problem.
The real issue would be if the charger itself failed to regulate its outgoing voltage, and provided, say, 2A instead of 1A to your mod. Again, this should be caught by your board's regulation (ie: the mod shouldn't allow more than 1A through to the batteries) but you're banking on everything working good.
Personally, I don't charge anything on USB because in a perfect storm it'd cause some serious issues. That said, I hear less and less incidents of mods catching fire while using the onboard charger though, so I think the tech in the balance boards is a bit better than it was a year or so ago. Really, I'm just scarred because the IPV3 had an "onboard charger" that was utterly awful. Just like, really shoddy and virtually guaranteed to cause problems if used regularly. Since then I've just skipped onboard charging.
I am indebted to you all. Thank you all for your clarity. I didn't know about the IMR/INR vs. ICR but even the thought of possible venting is scary. I had assumed that, as nyiddle said, that if it was 1A it would be less output but then, that would be reliant on the assumption that everything would work perfectly. A perfect storm CAN happen, however unlikely. One question - do you all wrap your batteries and do you recommend battery wrapping?
your batteries must be wrapped. but they come that way. so unless you nick the wrap, tear it, or otherwise deform it from, its original construction, youre good. but if the wrap is damaged, yes absolutely 100% re-wrap it. you can get a roll or batt wrap or even pre-cut sleeves in various colors. all you need is that, a pair of scissors, and a hair dryer. make sure to retain the paper insulator ring atop the positive end- its crucial.
heres a link to the batt wrap roll i bought. its enough to wrap about 2 dozen 18650s.
$1.18 Single 18650 Battery PVC Heat Shrink Tubing (Translucent) - 2m in length at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Thank you, Kemosabe. I do have one battery that has a teensy nick in it. Also one that has the positive end dented [slight rounded indentation on the metal top portion] in the center, but I read that these are not to be too concerned about. Just be aware when using it. I think I will look into the wraps. That makes sense. Covering it if it has a nick in it. Much obliged.
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