I want a new vaporizer. I currently have a kangertech mega 1900 and a sigelei 30 watt. I want one that doesn't have give me a burnt taste and a lot of flavor. I would like to try a new brand of tanks. What vaporizer and tank would you recommend for 100$. Also are the kangertechs coils reliable or am I having bad luck with them?
What is a reliable vaporizer
- Thread starter Chris Oglesby
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Hey there.
You said it taste burnt? It could be that you have burnt your coil. What is the resistence of your coil and how many watts are you running it at?
One thing I always do before using a brand new coil is first: Install the coil, fill tank up with juice, assemble it, do a few primer puffs(Do short draws like your normally would just don't push the fire button) to saturate the wick/coil with e juice and wait about 5 minutes or so. If you put a new coil in and immediately try to vape on it, chances are the wicking and coil are still dry and so you might end up burning it before it has a chance to get saturated by the eliquid.
There's also chance you might be running your wattage setting too high and it's burning the wicking material.
Anyways I would suggest getting a kanger subtank, the full size one or the mini one. The subtank will come with a 0.5 ohm coil and it can be fired at high wattages. This will produce great flavor and even better vapor.
Hope this helps you out!
You said it taste burnt? It could be that you have burnt your coil. What is the resistence of your coil and how many watts are you running it at?
One thing I always do before using a brand new coil is first: Install the coil, fill tank up with juice, assemble it, do a few primer puffs(Do short draws like your normally would just don't push the fire button) to saturate the wick/coil with e juice and wait about 5 minutes or so. If you put a new coil in and immediately try to vape on it, chances are the wicking and coil are still dry and so you might end up burning it before it has a chance to get saturated by the eliquid.
There's also chance you might be running your wattage setting too high and it's burning the wicking material.
Anyways I would suggest getting a kanger subtank, the full size one or the mini one. The subtank will come with a 0.5 ohm coil and it can be fired at high wattages. This will produce great flavor and even better vapor.
Hope this helps you out!
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For $100, whatever else you get, pick yourself up a simple dripper (rda).
When it comes to reliability you want an rda; it's like having a good ole bike you can get from here to there when your shiny car with the fancy name just wont start.
It will cost you a bit more but I'd say go with a Sig 100 and either an Aspire or a Subtank. Your going to need at least 4 18650 batteries (for rotation) and a charger. Just last month I convinced my father-in-law to give it a try. He had been messing with protanks and ego batteries. Needless to say he is loving his new set up. Trust me, its the vape experience your looking for. Next step, rebuildables!
Thanks for the help guys, the sigelei I'm using a kanger mega with a .08 coil...what is a dropper rda. Would I have to learn to build my own coils with those. What are some brands or can you send a link to show me what they are. Thanks
Chris the Sigelei 30watt device is a solid device and as far as Kanger Coils the only ones that are worth a salt are the OCC coils for the Sub-tank series. Look into a Subtank mini or a Joyetech Delta II atomizer,both of these have a rebuildable deck as well as a deck that accepts cartridge style coils like the protank and nautilus. These newer tank systems have advanced airflow designs and can handle much lower ohm loads and higher power levels like a RDA (dripper) but without the inconvenience of having to drip juice every 7 to 10 puffs. Look into one of these to use on your Sigelei before you run out getting another power source and see if this solves your burned taste issues and if not then if you aren't looking to go crazy high wattage I say get an I-stick 50 watt I have used it and can tell you that it is a solid performer and it has battery life for days. hope this helps.
Here is a thread that will give you some suggestions for under $100. . .
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/variable-voltage-apv-discussion/640761-little-itty-bitty-mods-under-100-a.html
Good luck to you.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/variable-voltage-apv-discussion/640761-little-itty-bitty-mods-under-100-a.html
Good luck to you.
I've been using Kanger atties for two years and never had a problem. They just work, if you know how to use them correctly. A few tips:
Kanger Troubleshooting 101:
If your clearo is flooding, the connections are not tight enough--or too tight. Keep reading.
If you're using clearos and getting a burnt taste it means that not enough juice is getting to the coil and you're basically vaping dry, hot air or inhaling smoke from the gunk that's burning off of your coil. Not a good thing. Another case of bad taste maybe the tank itself--some arrive covered with some kind of nasty grease; wash them with soap and water (just the tanks--soak the coils in PGA or vodka).
There are a few things you need to remember when using a T3 or an eVod or a ProTank--in addition to keeping your coils clean and free of gunk that accumulates on them.
1) Make sure that the atomizer coil is screwed into the base tightly--every time you refill; they often come not fully tightened from the manufacturer, or may have gotten loose through repeated refills.
2) Look at all the inner seals and gaskets to make sure they haven't become dislodged.
3) Make sure that you screw the tank into its base tightly. If it's not tight, it will leak.
4) When you screw your clearomizer into your battery, do not overtighten--screw it in only until it makes contact--no farther, or you may push the center post in too deep and cause all kinds of problems, including leaking. When the draw becomes tight or the taste and vapor production begin to diminish, replace the coil. This will happen sooner (even as soon as one day of heavy use) if you're using dark, viscous, or very sweet juices. The old coil can be cleaned and dry burned.
5) Make sure you're not getting any juice in the center tube when you're filling--this will cause your eVod to leak like a sieve. If some juice gets into the tube, close the top cap, place a tissue under your tank and blow gently through the clearomizer to get rid of any excess eliquid. Also, extra condensation inside the tank may, on some occasions, drip back into the center tube. Wipe your mouthpiece dry with a q-tip or a tissue when you refill (or more often when/if needed).
6) Take an occasional "primer puff" (a slow draw without activating the battery) when you vape. It helps move the juice into the coil chamber and removes any air bubbles that sometimes form in the tank and may cause gurgling or impede proper wicking.
7) New clearomizers (Aerotanks etc.) come with a clever airflow adjustment base--make sure you adjust the settings to your liking.
8) Take slow long draws rather than sharp and quick ones like we used to do while smoking cigarettes. Do not over vape, chain vape, power vape. Let the juice travel to the coil between drags.
9) Do not remove any flavor wicks if you're experiencing any leaking or flooding. Those wicks are there for a reason. If you feel that you have to remove a wick because your eliquid is particularly thick, do it carefully--one strand at a time. If your liquid is super thin, you can thicken it with a bit of VG (USP--pharma grade) or you can add another strand of cotton to your flavor wick. Don't add too much or you'll choke your atomizer and get a dry hit.
and last but not least:
10) Keep the coils and wicks clean (search ECF or YouTube for detailed coil cleaning instructions). Discard when when flavor and vapor start to diminish. Those coils are disposable.
Also, make sure you're vaping at correct wattages; Kanger recommends 5.5-7.5 watts for single coils. Dual coils require a bit more wattage than single coils. They also benefit from increased airflow.
Kanger Troubleshooting 101:
If your clearo is flooding, the connections are not tight enough--or too tight. Keep reading.
If you're using clearos and getting a burnt taste it means that not enough juice is getting to the coil and you're basically vaping dry, hot air or inhaling smoke from the gunk that's burning off of your coil. Not a good thing. Another case of bad taste maybe the tank itself--some arrive covered with some kind of nasty grease; wash them with soap and water (just the tanks--soak the coils in PGA or vodka).
There are a few things you need to remember when using a T3 or an eVod or a ProTank--in addition to keeping your coils clean and free of gunk that accumulates on them.
1) Make sure that the atomizer coil is screwed into the base tightly--every time you refill; they often come not fully tightened from the manufacturer, or may have gotten loose through repeated refills.
2) Look at all the inner seals and gaskets to make sure they haven't become dislodged.
3) Make sure that you screw the tank into its base tightly. If it's not tight, it will leak.
4) When you screw your clearomizer into your battery, do not overtighten--screw it in only until it makes contact--no farther, or you may push the center post in too deep and cause all kinds of problems, including leaking. When the draw becomes tight or the taste and vapor production begin to diminish, replace the coil. This will happen sooner (even as soon as one day of heavy use) if you're using dark, viscous, or very sweet juices. The old coil can be cleaned and dry burned.
5) Make sure you're not getting any juice in the center tube when you're filling--this will cause your eVod to leak like a sieve. If some juice gets into the tube, close the top cap, place a tissue under your tank and blow gently through the clearomizer to get rid of any excess eliquid. Also, extra condensation inside the tank may, on some occasions, drip back into the center tube. Wipe your mouthpiece dry with a q-tip or a tissue when you refill (or more often when/if needed).
6) Take an occasional "primer puff" (a slow draw without activating the battery) when you vape. It helps move the juice into the coil chamber and removes any air bubbles that sometimes form in the tank and may cause gurgling or impede proper wicking.
7) New clearomizers (Aerotanks etc.) come with a clever airflow adjustment base--make sure you adjust the settings to your liking.
8) Take slow long draws rather than sharp and quick ones like we used to do while smoking cigarettes. Do not over vape, chain vape, power vape. Let the juice travel to the coil between drags.
9) Do not remove any flavor wicks if you're experiencing any leaking or flooding. Those wicks are there for a reason. If you feel that you have to remove a wick because your eliquid is particularly thick, do it carefully--one strand at a time. If your liquid is super thin, you can thicken it with a bit of VG (USP--pharma grade) or you can add another strand of cotton to your flavor wick. Don't add too much or you'll choke your atomizer and get a dry hit.
and last but not least:
10) Keep the coils and wicks clean (search ECF or YouTube for detailed coil cleaning instructions). Discard when when flavor and vapor start to diminish. Those coils are disposable.
Also, make sure you're vaping at correct wattages; Kanger recommends 5.5-7.5 watts for single coils. Dual coils require a bit more wattage than single coils. They also benefit from increased airflow.
First of all C…what K said above ^^^^^^^. Hold on to those notes, you'll need 'em.
The reason I decided to respond here is…you asked the right question. What does a proper vaporizer look like?
Save you a month mebe, if not years. News flash…all 510 devices with bottom airflow through the pin leak. There are good reasons why this happens and many due to how the factory coil was created and assembled. Second bit of news. A good percentage of factory hand wound coils will give you a hot dry vape (dry out your wick). In part due to irregular contact on the wick which overheats the wire and so the vape. The fact that unlike proper electrical coils the stockers lack symmetry also causes hot spots in the wire…bingo, burny vape again.
You have two choices: a) buy back-ups (and absorb this as a cost of vaping); or, b) at some point, decide to rebuild your own.
The latter will broaden your vaping horizons beyond your imagination. Why? Because vaping can deliver a level of taste and vapor production far beyond anything you had in smoking. An avid smoker of every kind for 47 years, I can assure you of that.
What you'll most find on ECF is folks sharing their individual success and that's usually expressed as a testimonial to the last gorgeous little bit of shiny they got it on. Nothin' wrong with that and they have every reason to be proud and help out. But it doesn't answer your question. You happen to have a pretty good kit at the moment so let's cut right to the chase.
It's quite possible within the next 24 hours you could decide to become master of your domain and allow me and others to show you within a week or considerably faster how to rebuild effectively and reliably. The technique to make the following takes all of about 30 seconds. Installation in a PT3 assembly minutes with perhaps a few days to master. This cures about 90% of the problems experienced with the Protank 3 type coils you are using.
Now if you'd rather take the blue pill and chance heading down a hundred rabbit holes…well, may the force be with you and good luck. If you want that great vape a week from now without seeing red do yourself a favor and peruse these two threads…
Protank Cotton Rebuild, the way I do it (basic Protank coil assembly and wicking)
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! (intermediate>advanced tensioned microcoils)
Within a few days you could be winding the above and properly installing it in a short free condition. Burny vape be gone.
Hail us on the latter thread once you've got your questions lined up and a regular following of capable vet's will be sure to give you a hand with that first wind.
Otherwise C, good luck and hope to see you soon.
Enjoy the vape!
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TY
Ahem... If we had a video of a master coil builder showing us, step-by-step, how to rebuild stock coils, that would be extremely helpful. For starters, we would like to see how to rebuild a Kanger single coil atty (PT, eVod) and a dual-coil atty (PT3, Aerotank) with a single coil.
Think of it as a service to the vaping community. Tons of brownie points.
No pressure. I'm just sayin'...
kangars coils have always been garbage to me, theyre the reason i bought my magma. If you have interest in building, id suggest that for your first. Runs awesome on my DNA 30 so it should be just as good on your Sig30.
I have recently been getting some stock coils from kanger that have performed poorly, they might last couple hours sometimes, a day maybe sometimes. Have a friend having the same issues, just the old normal single coil heads in the 1.8 to 2.5 range. Think it's a wicking issue from factory but really haven't investigated to much myself, use mostly rebuilt ones anyway, then when it performs poorly I KNOW it's a wicking issue, and who the idiot that wicked it is!
So much excellent info in this post as I'm sure for those that preceded yours and are sure to follow. I think #4 is the cause of most clearo problems because of the weak 510 connection and grommets. How easily we can make a factory coil distort and/or short out, underproduce and flood, extrude wire past the grommet, the list is large.
I also think keeping the darn things clean and dry, your #10, is crucial or you get under-powered as you warn about and there gunks your vape. I wrote a little blurb about blowing out wicks on my blog...Blow out the wick ends!
Thanks katya.
Good luck.
The subtank mini and subtank nano are excellent. I used to love my atlantis but the newest subtanks combine the best of both worlds for me (atlantis airflow, subtank flavor) The delta II looks pretty cool as well but it looks difficult to clean and doesnt hold as much e-liquid as the subtank mini
That's a little harsh...
They are not garbage, really. For mass produced stock coils they are actually quite good. Yes, they probably could be better, QC could be better, but many vapers use them daily without major issues. And Kanger is constantly trying to improve them; Aerotanks now come with airflow control bases, which also work with ProTanks, both eGo and 510 threaded. My Emow tank is really very good as is and I use it all the time. In addition, Kanger coil heads can be easily cleaned and dry burned. They can be rewicked with cotton or rayon and, of course, they can be rebuilt (just ask Mac), which greatly improves their performance.
Don't forget that there are many vapers out there, in the real world, who don't want to, have no time to, or are not able, for whatever reason--poor eyesight, poor motor skills, whatever--to deal with RBAs. They just want to quit smoking and they need a plug n play device. For them, Kanger clearomizers are a very good option indeed. And since this is a new members forum, I don't want anyone trying to make a transition to vaping get the wrong idea that they can't succeed unless they have at least a working knowledge of the Ohm's Law and Li-Ion batteries; and own a 100 watt mod, a complicated and expensive RBA (preferably imported from Germany), several spools of kanthal wire, a box of Japanese organic cotton and/or rayon, a torch, a multimeter, a strong magnifying glass, a good source of light, a lathe, and a well equipped toolbox containing various wire cutters, dremels, nose tip pliers, nut wings, a set of mini screwdrivers and machine screws (several sizes), and a pin vise (or a coil winding jig).
Off my soapbox now.
I totally enjoyed that KatayaThat's a little harsh...
They are not garbage, really. For mass produced stock coils they are actually quite good. Yes, they probably could be better, QC could be better, but many vapers use them daily without major issues. And Kanger is constantly trying to improve them; Aerotanks now come with airflow control bases, which also work with ProTanks, both eGo and 510 threaded. My Emow tank is really very good as is and I use it all the time. In addition, Kanger coil heads can be easily cleaned and dry burned. They can be rewicked with cotton or rayon and, of course, they can be rebuilt (just ask Mac), which greatly improves their performance.
Don't forget that there are many vapers out there, in the real world, who don't want to, have no time to, or are not able, for whatever reason--poor eyesight, poor motor skills, whatever--to deal with RBAs. They just want to quit smoking and they need a plug n play device. For them, Kanger clearomizers are a very good option indeed. And since this is a new members forum, I don't want anyone trying to make a transition to vaping get the wrong idea that they can't succeed unless they have at least a working knowledge of the Ohm's Law and Li-Ion batteries; and own a 100 watt mod, a complicated and expensive RBA (preferably imported from Germany), several spools of kanthal wire, a box of Japanese organic cotton and/or rayon, a torch, a multimeter, a strong magnifying glass, a good source of light, a lathe, and a well equipped toolbox containing various wire cutters, dremels, nose tip pliers, nut wings, a set of mini screwdrivers and machine screws (several sizes), and a pin vise (or a coil winding jig).
Off my soapbox now.
and agree. I want to add that my wife still uses the same Kanger T3S tanks she got in Jan 2014 with the same coils! Suprisingly they perform as they did the first day. Good vapor and good clean flavor. She has used only Apple Menthol in them and always refills them before they get below a third of the tank. They have never leaked. I think that's one key to preventing leaks. I had a couple from the same set of 5 that I bought her and they gave me all kinds of trouble. I got tired of rewicking coils, replacing coils, clearing leaks but finally I started using her methods. Now I use one just for tobaccos on a VV3. I keep it at least half full and it doesn't leak plus I haven't changed the coil in months. It gives me just the right hit I want for a tobacco vape. I use other drippers, tanks, and mods for flavors with bigger clouds but I still like the Kanger best for what I use it for.- Status
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