I have the ego twist and i use standard res bus sometimes i want to use my low res tank but at higher volts.
What is my best choice for vv.
- Thread starter danm219
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- provari vapor beast
- Status
So, what's your question? Why don't you just change the voltage on your Twist to a lower voltage when you want to use a low res carto tank?
My question is I want to run daul coil tanks on higher volts like 4.4 but my twist regulates it to 3.7 so is there a better mod that will do this ?
You have to use low resistance cartos at an appropriate voltage. For example: with 1.8 ohm you can get as high as 4V. More voltage will give you a burnt taste. Just play with the voltage on the twist and you'll find the sweet vamping spot.
Twist has a current limit of 2.5A. With a dual coil LR (1.5?) carto, the Twist will actually see 3.0 ohms and will easily be able to provide the needed 1.47A needed. This would produce only 2.94 watts per coil which is pretty low. Is that what you were expecting?
So your saying that the twist is good enough because you lost me at the 2.94 watts
I think what the little analysis did is point out why dual coils sometimes don't produce what people expect. If the above had been a 3 ohm single coil, it would have produced almost 6 watts which is more productive. DC and low current aren't a good combo.
Bookmark that ohms law calculator, very handy! I also carry a printed ohms law "wheel" thats on a business card in my wallet. Very handy formulas.
Most people like to vape at 8-10 watts depending on the juice. Wattage is calculated as w=v*v/r (watts=voltage x voltage / ohms).
At 1.5 ohms (typical LR atty/cartomizer) you could run up to 4.0 volts; 4*4/1.5= 10.6 watts Above 10 watts, the vape will usually taste harsh or burnt. Amps would be calculated at i=v/r; so at 4.0 volts you would see 2.66 amps, (4/1.5=2.66) which would be over the amp limit of the twist. So 3.7 is most likely the max you could run on that device with a 1.5 ohm load (9.12 watts at 2.46 amps).
If you don't want to do the math, here is a chart that does it for you. Shows the optimal ohms/voltage for atty/carto life.
Full post: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...el-power-worksheet-voltage-vs-resistance.html
excell sheet: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...et-voltage-vs-resistance-wattage-atty-2-.xlsx
J
At 1.5 ohms (typical LR atty/cartomizer) you could run up to 4.0 volts; 4*4/1.5= 10.6 watts Above 10 watts, the vape will usually taste harsh or burnt. Amps would be calculated at i=v/r; so at 4.0 volts you would see 2.66 amps, (4/1.5=2.66) which would be over the amp limit of the twist. So 3.7 is most likely the max you could run on that device with a 1.5 ohm load (9.12 watts at 2.46 amps).
If you don't want to do the math, here is a chart that does it for you. Shows the optimal ohms/voltage for atty/carto life.
Full post: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...el-power-worksheet-voltage-vs-resistance.html
excell sheet: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...et-voltage-vs-resistance-wattage-atty-2-.xlsx
J
Yes I already bookmark the law calculator thanks to all, i think that i am starting to understand now.
I know nothing about the twist, but i have a new version of the lava tube and a vv box mod from Mr.e-liquid. Both are good devices, but for my dcts i use the LT all day. Tim from vaporbeast.com has them for 68.99 with free shipping, whole kit! It has about a 4amp cut off, forget the math, the vv vector from vapor beast rocks my dcts no problem! And i have heard the new provari does the same, but it is almost triple the price for a kit, just saying triple!
I believe we were talking about dual coils, which are two 1.5 ohm coils in series for a total of 3 ohms.
I was operating under the "LR tank setup" comment as most LR setups would be 1.5-1.8 ohms. Smoketek makes DC cartos at 1.5 ohm total resistance. I tend to only look at load at the adapter vs series coils. If it's 1.5 ohm total it would be LR in my book, 3.0 ohm total would be a regular resistance. Thats just me I guess.
Hopefully I didn't make it more confusing that it already is lol
J
I'm new to vaping but not to electronics. The ego twist is really nice and a cheap way to get vv for most people. I picked a unit that uses the popular 18650 battery because it has a high mah rating. Milli amp hour or whatever. Basically the mah determines the length of time and the potential amperage a battery can deliver. The bigger the mah rating the longer between charges. Your heating a coil of resistive wire until it burns e juice that takes a considerable draw on your battery. All vv vaporizers use a regulator to increase the voltage but not all regulators are equal. What your display shows and what you get are not always exact. Thats why if you want true VV you have to use a unit with a switching regulator. The ego twist battery does not have that. A switching regulator is much more consistent in what it delivers and is also much more efficient using it on a battery. Few vaping devices use the switching regulator because they are expensive. A switching regulator can cost 15 to 30 dollars just for the regulator. Thats expensive compared to using a 79 cent chip or mosfet and a few cheap capacitors/ resistors. There is a thread here in the mod section about building a mod called the "evercool". Thats a true VV device that can be built on a budget. Others may know of some "off the shelf" units that offer a switching regulator. If a unit uses a switching regulator it wont produce heat except in the part that vaporizes the juice. Thats as top of the line as it gets for vaping.
- Status
Similar threads
