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I use 500. Then I cut out my rectangular pieces at 45 deg angle to the weave. It wastes material but some guy at a vape shop told me to do it that way so that all the threads of the final vertical roll end up pointed up and down -ish. Dont forget to torch it once before you roll it so as to burn off any goo, then again after you roll it around the ceramic to get a layer of oxidation (so it wont short out on you) and make it hold its shape.
I also usually lightly torch my wire before I prewrap, just to loosen it up (especially if it's ribbon or a 31awg or lower round-wire). And then quick-torch it again after I coil it (off the screwdriver) so that it "remembers" its new shape, then I put the coil back on the screwdriver once more to tighten it up before going to its final resting place around the ceramic's mesh hat.
I also usually lightly torch my wire before I prewrap, just to loosen it up (especially if it's ribbon or a 31awg or lower round-wire). And then quick-torch it again after I coil it (off the screwdriver) so that it "remembers" its new shape, then I put the coil back on the screwdriver once more to tighten it up before going to its final resting place around the ceramic's mesh hat.
I also find, as per a previous poster's experience with breaking the ceramic wicks after they are installed, that because the wick hole acts a fulcrum on the wick it is best to be everso careful when attaching and tightening your positive and negative leads. i think, in this case, a little preparation can go along way. That's why I use only ribbon wire on my ceramics and I always pre-wrap then torch then pre-tighten before the coil even touches the ceramic. Also, with ribbon wire I will construct the prewrap with all the coils snugly touching so that if coil is a bit loose as it sits in place on the ceramic, and as long as I have enough vertical space left on my wick, I can gently tighten the coils by separating them at an angle to the RBA's deck. It's like stretching a spring, where as you stretch it, the inner diameter shrinks.
Dunno. I bought a big sheet of it from my local vape shop 2 months ago for like 5 bucks and I may have only yesterday finished it off.
Update:
I came home tonight and started playing with the micro coil and cotton set up in my DID. After playing with the coil a bit, I got it to go from .9 to 1.1 ohms. Kind of wanted it at 1.3 or 1.5 because I have the DID on a Provari right now, and I've been told that's the "sweet spot." But oh well - didn't want to wrap a new coil so I just played some more.
I tipped the coil from a horizontal position up to almost a vertical position, took a long very thin piece of cotton, threaded it through the coil, and then pushed both sides down into the tank through the wick hole. This is actually giving me a very good vape that does not require any tipping (it automatically tips and saturates the cotton when I take a hit, as long as I have the air hole facing me).
No dry hits or burning so far, but I have to say it's a tighter draw than I prefer. I'm considering boring out the air hole a bit. I don't want to mess up the DID, leave a rough hole or chip the metal - any recommendations on the drilling process are welcome.
I came home tonight and started playing with the micro coil and cotton set up in my DID. After playing with the coil a bit, I got it to go from .9 to 1.1 ohms. Kind of wanted it at 1.3 or 1.5 because I have the DID on a Provari right now, and I've been told that's the "sweet spot." But oh well - didn't want to wrap a new coil so I just played some more.
I tipped the coil from a horizontal position up to almost a vertical position, took a long very thin piece of cotton, threaded it through the coil, and then pushed both sides down into the tank through the wick hole. This is actually giving me a very good vape that does not require any tipping (it automatically tips and saturates the cotton when I take a hit, as long as I have the air hole facing me).
No dry hits or burning so far, but I have to say it's a tighter draw than I prefer. I'm considering boring out the air hole a bit. I don't want to mess up the DID, leave a rough hole or chip the metal - any recommendations on the drilling process are welcome.
I use a dremel on its lowest speed setting and plenty of juice-lube. I put the drill bit in the hole before I start drilling so as not to miss it and chew up the cap. I then use a polishing stone bit on the dremel to smooth out the inside wall of the cap around the enlarged hole.
To the OP.
ceramic is easy to work with , given the proper tools.
AO wick in Z-atty Pro and DID D20
make sure the AO is nice and wet all the time, i just use tap water. keeps your cutting bit from dulling quickly... i learned the hard way.
small cut then rinse, small cut then rinse, small cut then rinse, small cut then rinse..... yada yada yada.
I cut it with a diamond coated disk attached to my dremel. not hard to get at a hardware store...
and then i go the extra mile by using a metal file to make sure the wick is perfectly straight. (i like a snug fit
)
no special secret, just go slow and easy.
Scubabatdan has a good video of him making his own on Youtube... material is different, but that is how i make mine...
small cut then rinse, small cut then rinse, small cut then rinse, small cut then rinse..... yada yada yada.
I cut it with a diamond coated disk attached to my dremel. not hard to get at a hardware store...
and then i go the extra mile by using a metal file to make sure the wick is perfectly straight. (i like a snug fit
)no special secret, just go slow and easy.
Scubabatdan has a good video of him making his own on Youtube... material is different, but that is how i make mine...
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