I have been using the Kanger T3 with the Vision Spinner. Getting ready to make another order for a few more--and saw the Evod. What is the difference between the two?
What is the difference between Evod & Kanger T3?
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Do you have the T3 or the T3s?
First, the evod is shorter/smaller. Second, the evod uses replaceable heads instead of replacing the entire base like the T3 does(the T3s uses replaceable heads also).
As for performance, they should be similar though the evod being shorter may give a warmer vape, and I've heard they're not quite as airy.
First, the evod is shorter/smaller. Second, the evod uses replaceable heads instead of replacing the entire base like the T3 does(the T3s uses replaceable heads also).
As for performance, they should be similar though the evod being shorter may give a warmer vape, and I've heard they're not quite as airy.
To me the only difference is that the t3 holds more liquid.
It only takes one person to start a revolution.
It only takes one person to start a revolution.
I think I have both the T3 and the T3s--seems like I need to replace the heads often--sometimes they don't work even when they are new. Seems to leak and gurgle. I have been reading a lot here to find out why--but seem to get more confused.
I had the same issue with the T3 leaking. Have you tried dry burning them to clean the coil? It's actually extremely simple, and definitely one of the reasons I like the T3/EVOD/Protank line. All exactly the same as far as cleaning goes. If you haven't tried it, check out youtube for videos. I've switched over to exclusively using EVODs for my portable ego batteries, and Protanks at home.
Phil
Phil
Evods & Protanks share replaceable coils... T3S has it's own replaceable coil/base.
Hope this helps!
Thanks--I did just watch a video on how to do that. I will give it a try.
Visual preference
Volume preference
Coil attachment - Evod(Coil to base) T3(base assembly)
Evod Produces a noticeably warmer vape with same rated coil on same power due to coil distance.
T3 can be updated to T3s with replacement bases and new design coils
T3s coils will not interchange with Evod/protank coils
Volume preference
Coil attachment - Evod(Coil to base) T3(base assembly)
Evod Produces a noticeably warmer vape with same rated coil on same power due to coil distance.
T3 can be updated to T3s with replacement bases and new design coils
T3s coils will not interchange with Evod/protank coils
T3S heads will work in Evods and Protanks, just Evod and Protank heads will not fit in a T3S. The T3S is just a smidgeon narrower at the bottom flange of the head compared to the others, other than that it is almost identical to the protank head.
Small sampling (tried 2 so far) but I am having threading trouble with using the NEW T3 bases on an old T3.
One was a simple "no go" - I might have made it screw on once, fighting with grinding threads, but it would have never come back off.
The second one is USABLE, but not a nice smooth match.
When I run out of the old base/coil combos, I'll have to do a mix-n-match to determine if the new bases fit perfectly with any particular T3... (I don't have a LOT - maybe 4 of em).
Just an FYI...
One was a simple "no go" - I might have made it screw on once, fighting with grinding threads, but it would have never come back off.
The second one is USABLE, but not a nice smooth match.
When I run out of the old base/coil combos, I'll have to do a mix-n-match to determine if the new bases fit perfectly with any particular T3... (I don't have a LOT - maybe 4 of em).
Just an FYI...
I personally use T3S and modify them slightly by enlarging one or two of the tiny air-intake holes with a small drill, because I experienced some vacuum while vaping.
You should try this and tell me what you think of it.
Best regards,
Chum,
You should try this and tell me what you think of it.
Best regards,
Chum,
I've used both and I find that the T3s is a bit airy and tends to leak a bit around the coil. Easily fixed by reseating the coil and sometimes flipping the flat o-ring (not entirely sure that thats the problem). I have a Vision v-tox (evod clone) and i found that draw to be really tight and felt like someone had just had it on a lathe the day before i bought it (felt a bit flimsy). I've seen people improve the draw on the T3s' by either taping one of the holes or just putting a finger over one of them, seems to draw fine after that. It all boils down to personal preference and vaping style in the end though.
f.w.i.w. I have had multiple T3s, evods, one x T3S and now various protanks.
The worst for leaking was the "old" T3. I vaped solidly on a T3S recently for about 2-3 weeks until the head gave up. It didn't leak....but I prefer the protank, so didn't buy any more heads. I might re-coil it myself or not bother....
The worst for leaking was the "old" T3. I vaped solidly on a T3S recently for about 2-3 weeks until the head gave up. It didn't leak....but I prefer the protank, so didn't buy any more heads. I might re-coil it myself or not bother....
personally every time I try to use these T3S clearos I have issues! Gurgle, leak, not enough vapor blah blah blah... 
I really wanted to like these too...
I really wanted to like these too...
I'm bumping this thread since I have more t3/evod coil questions & didnt want to start another thread. Anyways ..
I know it was stated above (1st page, top) that the T3 coils and Evod coils are interchangeable. I've read that more than I've read the opposite, but it is still argued whether or not you can use an Evod coil in a T3. I cant tell if Im having T3 issues because of the evod coils or if its just weird issues somewhere else. In the very beginning, I bought the T3's and Evods because I was told the coils were interchangeable. A little later I ordered a T3S & a T4. All the parts started to become mixed together over time and now I'm trying to build a few T3's back to working order. Well I'm not sure if I'm not putting them together w/the right parts or if the gear is just total junk at this point. The parts between the T3 and T3S are so similar that I'm not sure whats what!
HHHEEELLPPP!!
I know it was stated above (1st page, top) that the T3 coils and Evod coils are interchangeable. I've read that more than I've read the opposite, but it is still argued whether or not you can use an Evod coil in a T3. I cant tell if Im having T3 issues because of the evod coils or if its just weird issues somewhere else. In the very beginning, I bought the T3's and Evods because I was told the coils were interchangeable. A little later I ordered a T3S & a T4. All the parts started to become mixed together over time and now I'm trying to build a few T3's back to working order. Well I'm not sure if I'm not putting them together w/the right parts or if the gear is just total junk at this point. The parts between the T3 and T3S are so similar that I'm not sure whats what!
HHHEEELLPPP!!
Googled this thread because I had the same question, and registered to reply...looks like you're not getting any help. I'm afraid I can't either, but I'd also like to know. I bought a couple of EVOD and a couple T3S coils yesterday and can't distinguish between them. It appears, without measuring (need to get my micrometer out of storage), that one is just slightly larger where the actual coil/wick inserts. I pulled the tube out of each, and that part fits into the other. So, if there's a difference, it's not discernible by looking. If they don't work, I guess I'll know, but I have a working T3S and EVOID right now, so when one of those goes, I'll do the experiment later.
I like the T3S (actually a T3 with the replacement base) and the EVOD. Both seem to give a good vape, but the EVOD looks a little less 'clinical' to me. It now starts to remind me too much of a hypodermic syringe, with the markings on the side. Given that I'm kind of addicted to this habit of vaping, that association seems kind of unfortunate.
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I have both, the Evod and the T3S. I prefer the T3S because I can easily see how much liquid is in the tank. This is most handy when filling it. Otherwise I would say the Evod is less prone to leaking than the T3S. The T3S will be fine when I change the head and will not leak for several days, but onve it starts leaking it doesn't stop until I change the head to a brand new one. The only thing that I have been able to deduce is that the tiny o-ring gets warm and over time warps (for a lack of a better word), thus no longer seals properly. I have the same problem with my two Kangertech Pro Tank 1 thanks. Leads me to believe that this is an inherent Kangertech issue.
I have MT3's with the converted base, and Evod's.
I don't find that there is really any difference between them, except for the amounts that they hold.
I use them exclusively and quite like them both.
I don't find that there is really any difference between them, except for the amounts that they hold.
I use them exclusively and quite like them both.
Googled this thread because I had the same question, and registered to reply...looks like you're not getting any help. I'm afraid I can't either, but I'd also like to know. I bought a couple of EVOD and a couple T3S coils yesterday and can't distinguish between them. It appears, without measuring (need to get my micrometer out of storage), that one is just slightly larger where the actual coil/wick inserts. I pulled the tube out of each, and that part fits into the other. So, if there's a difference, it's not discernible by looking. If they don't work, I guess I'll know, but I have a working T3S and EVOID right now, so when one of those goes, I'll do the experiment later.
I like the T3S (actually a T3 with the replacement base) and the EVOD. Both seem to give a good vape, but the EVOD looks a little less 'clinical' to me. It now starts to remind me too much of a hypodermic syringe, with the markings on the side. Given that I'm kind of addicted to this habit of vaping, that association seems kind of unfortunate.
The simplest way to distinguish the heads is to mount them on a T3S base. The threadings that go into the base all match, as well as the bottom gasket. Move up to the neck of the base and the bottom flange of the head when you look, if the flange matches the T3S base perfectly flush it is a T3S head, if the flange there overlaps the top of the base it is an Evod/Protank/Unitank universal head. Next way, and easiest really until you get to the point you can see the flange overhang on a T3S base, is the base generally will have a gap between the base and the tank itself, almost like a 1mm gap, have that gap with it tightened down, you have a protank head in there not a T3S head.
Its frustrating to describe without showing someone directly because the 2 heads are identical in parts and look that side by side it is very, very hard to distinguish them
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